Hi,I have to lime render a conservation project it's a house near the sea so the council insist on lime render. Anyone tell me the mix ratio and they want 3 coats?is this correct? Also, I have to coarse the bricks? Apparently I have to score in the appearance of large bricks anyone know how I do this? Cheers
Lime rendering
- Thread starter Bsr
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traditional lime renders has many variables m8 and there is shitloads more that can go wrong with it if not done properly
if you have not done any external lime-rendering before i would seriously consider getting someone in who has experience
of it .
as general rule for 3 coat external Ashlar work on raked out stonework
1st coat would be 2 parts zone two grit, 1 part sharp sand and 1.5 hydraulic lime and diagonally keyed with a scratcher
2nd coat would be 1 part zone 2 grit , 2 parts sharp sand and 1 part hydraulic lime ruled off and horizontally keyed with a kane brush
and the top coat 3 parts sharp sand to 1 part hydraulic lime ruled and floated to a smooth finish the Ashlar lines would put into the topcot the following day
all coats must be dryed completely out before the next is layed on and protected from drying to quickly by hanging tarps over the area rendered . if your render coats dry out to quickly the lime will not carbonate then you are left with a very soft cracked dusty finish which will fail . trust me on this as half of my limework comes from jobs done by people who just cant fooking do it:RpS_laugh::RpS_laugh:
if you are going have a go at it i would get your lime mortors bought in premixed and follow their specifications to the letter just to try and cover your ass when it goes tits up...................GOODLUCK
if you have not done any external lime-rendering before i would seriously consider getting someone in who has experience
of it .
as general rule for 3 coat external Ashlar work on raked out stonework
1st coat would be 2 parts zone two grit, 1 part sharp sand and 1.5 hydraulic lime and diagonally keyed with a scratcher
2nd coat would be 1 part zone 2 grit , 2 parts sharp sand and 1 part hydraulic lime ruled off and horizontally keyed with a kane brush
and the top coat 3 parts sharp sand to 1 part hydraulic lime ruled and floated to a smooth finish the Ashlar lines would put into the topcot the following day
all coats must be dryed completely out before the next is layed on and protected from drying to quickly by hanging tarps over the area rendered . if your render coats dry out to quickly the lime will not carbonate then you are left with a very soft cracked dusty finish which will fail . trust me on this as half of my limework comes from jobs done by people who just cant fooking do it:RpS_laugh::RpS_laugh:
if you are going have a go at it i would get your lime mortors bought in premixed and follow their specifications to the letter just to try and cover your ass when it goes tits up...................GOODLUCK
thanks for the very helpful reply duc you seem very experienced!!. this would be my very first lime rendering job and i have sort of committed to the job even though it is new to me. couple of questions if you dont mind. what is zone 2 grit? what is kane brush? first of all is that what you call the lines ashlar lines and if so will it be soft enough to put them in next day and how do i do this? when you say buy the lime mortars in does that mean it would all come pre bagged just so i can add water or do i still have to add grit,sharp etc? which is the best pre mix to use and is it more expensive than the traditional way? sorry for all the questions duc im just happy to speak to a experienced lime renderer! oh just one last thing, on the spec from the council they asked for the lime to be soaked over night in clean water to form a putty????
dude
if i could teach you to lime render on a forum do you really think i would be pushing s**t up walls for a living ......................sorry if that sounds a bit harsh but honestly if you have never done it before leave it alone.
there are far to many variables to take into account , is it to hot, is it to cold, is it drying to quick ,is it drying to slow is the wind catching it and what to do to in these situations can only come with experience, you really do need to look after it to achieve a decent finish that will last more than 12 months
Tw-Mawr Wales | Lime Plaster, Putty, Mortar, Limewash, Limecrete, Hydraulic, lime courses, glaster, wool hemp insulation
have read through that lot to start with
i can`t seem edit my posts so i have be careful on what i write down eg. the 2nd coat you will also need to devil float it to compress the mortar and remove any shrinkage cracks
if you are still up for it at least wait for the spring to arrive when you will at least have the weather on your side :RpS_thumbup: oh and 1 more thing.............................. google is your friend everything you have asked is on there and is explained far better than i can, i will give you 1 good tip for lime work.............................. DON`T GET ANY IN YOUR FOOKING EYE:RpS_blink::RpS_blink::RpS_crying::RpS_crying::RpS_cursing::RpS_cursing:
if i could teach you to lime render on a forum do you really think i would be pushing s**t up walls for a living ......................sorry if that sounds a bit harsh but honestly if you have never done it before leave it alone.
there are far to many variables to take into account , is it to hot, is it to cold, is it drying to quick ,is it drying to slow is the wind catching it and what to do to in these situations can only come with experience, you really do need to look after it to achieve a decent finish that will last more than 12 months
Tw-Mawr Wales | Lime Plaster, Putty, Mortar, Limewash, Limecrete, Hydraulic, lime courses, glaster, wool hemp insulation
have read through that lot to start with
i can`t seem edit my posts so i have be careful on what i write down eg. the 2nd coat you will also need to devil float it to compress the mortar and remove any shrinkage cracks
if you are still up for it at least wait for the spring to arrive when you will at least have the weather on your side :RpS_thumbup: oh and 1 more thing.............................. google is your friend everything you have asked is on there and is explained far better than i can, i will give you 1 good tip for lime work.............................. DON`T GET ANY IN YOUR FOOKING EYE:RpS_blink::RpS_blink::RpS_crying::RpS_crying::RpS_cursing::RpS_cursing:
mark ross
Private Member
Bsr,
You will never learn or gain the knowledge and skills needed to undertake this job over a forum. Lime rendering is a complex art. My advise to you is to either work for a contractor whom works in this feild. Or subcontract the work out to a contractor/plasterer who does,and work along side them if they will agree to this.
Lastly , lime work is seasonal, if you try to undertake such a job this time of year, the local conservation officer will be very alarmed,and questions will be raised as to your credentials regarding the job.
You will never learn or gain the knowledge and skills needed to undertake this job over a forum. Lime rendering is a complex art. My advise to you is to either work for a contractor whom works in this feild. Or subcontract the work out to a contractor/plasterer who does,and work along side them if they will agree to this.
Lastly , lime work is seasonal, if you try to undertake such a job this time of year, the local conservation officer will be very alarmed,and questions will be raised as to your credentials regarding the job.
This is too big a job for one..the ashlar line must go on as you are working with a small \Ruleing tool hand made ( i could make you one no probs.
Dont bother with pre mix its alot harder to work with and £££.
If you want to work with a lime plasterer then contact me, conservation officers can be ok to deal with if you know the answears first...lol.
Render Systems
Private Member
sounds a canny job to me... as for the ashlar cutting if its like a london stucco facade your best off using laths on first coat then build up with float coat and finish, as for the lime putty, that may just have been specified to get smooth finish on top coat... but there are loads of nice fine sands that will give you the same using NHL 3.5
lucius
Well-Known Member
Rough c**t
mark ross
Private Member
Shameful and discraceful......Conscientious, not al all.
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