just curious ???

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regi-boy

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do you guys use a brush to polish up your ceiling ??? by this i mean after second trowel ready for polish with a nice soft brush wet ceiling with brush by brushing it then troweling straight over ??? reason i ask our aprentice was told at college that a brush should never touch his walls / ceilings and this is how we finish . just told him to get on with it but curious as to the majority thoughts on this one ;)
 
we usually just trowel it 3 or 4 times in the course of it goin off, never actually brush the surface. yeah your rite 4 telling him "just f***ing get on with it" ;)
 
only thing i use a brush for is to brush my corners in i always use a spray bottle to wet walls/ceilings
 
i do whatever it needs....i love my little squirty bottle but i brush my corners first and trowel away...
i got a big emulsion brush i sometimes use around skirting board height if its goin off rapid, just brush it along the bottom and trowel up...
besides, when troweling i like to keep the back edge of the trowel clean, for which i need my brush, specially on a big set on first flatten from the edges....pick any crap up and its gonna put a line in your wall...
tend to use brush to flatten, and squirter to trowel up in a perfect world...
 
yea i served my time 12 year ago and i was always taught that you only put the brush to the walls to clean the angles and just flick the water on.But aslong as the outcomes the same who gives a feck every one finds their own ways. :p
 
depends on how much its goin off mate, sometimes i do if its goin a little quick sometimes i dont, always end up with the same good finish.
 
hey regi boy

I allways brush the last 2 trowels as long as u have a decent smooth brush , same with walls on a wall its much easier to brush the bottom footor so of the wall and then trowel up long stroke does away with watermarks reason being it saves splash water marks on your cielings ( making the ceilings or walls look better)its also easier to do this and allso saves on mess on floor, it should take very little water on new work to get a perfect finish

everyone has different ways of plastereing, most site timeserved plasteres have different methods to handymen/ and college training course workers, because its like driving you do it the so called right way to pass your test, then with practice you do it the easier way and the difference between an experienced site plasterer on new builds and a training course worker is a million miles apart,

35 years ago I started a 5 year apprentiship for plastereing and like most apprentices we had to go to collage 1 day a week for 5 years to learn the trade, but the truth of it is we where not taught for the real world of plastereing, example to float and set a wall we where taught to screed top/ bottom and sides with a st edge feather then derby, then fill in feather edgind , then complete the wall by useing the derby, then rub up, what a load of bollox,

the truth is by the time u put your 4 screeds on a wall the screeds it start to take up making it more difficult to get straight edge and get perfect

the way I was taught in the real world on site was probaly 3/4 times faster you coat up say 4m of float derby it, and that was it, finished and repeat that till the wall/ room was complete no st edge needed, if you where good enough it came natuarly,unless you had big hollows in blockwork,then you would need to check with st edge, then rub up, 3/4 times faster than I was taught at collage, and better job because as it was worked in soft with a derby,

we were taught the same way to skim ceilings 4 screeds come on where is the sence in that,

they used to drum into us at collage to work dry corners if possible on walls and if u had to use wet corners allways use an angle trowel and crossgrain float ffs come on, well in the real world u complete a room from left to right all wet corners never ever dry, and as for useing an angle trowel why waste time if you can do it just as neat with a sach brush,

another big thing at the time was the amount of time they put into plaster cast work as in make your own coving or match up to victorian cove in old houses listed buildings ect. we spent hours and hours over the 5 years learning how to do this i think i was on a job once in 35 years where I had to remould some cove and match it up, and even then I was shown an easier way to do it
 
i still use screeds mate on a decent sized wall or where mf /grid ceilings are going look after youre angles and the rest of the wall will look after itself :D
 
I sometimes use a brush to polish walls and ceilings if im starting to lose them only.

I will get plenty off water on the brush and startiong from the top run the brush in front off my trowel whilst applying pressure

im not saying this is the right thing to do but i personally do this if im losing the wall.
 
always use a brush 6in flat brush and small tool brush for angles always clean water for last trowel
 
layon 1st coat approx 2mm then flattern, small brush to corners, lay on second coat approx 1mm then flattern, small brush corner , wet trowel with a spray but only the min water to lube trowel edge, then dry trowel.... then twitcher (internal corner trowel) on corners.......this is the way to get the best finish....some dont flattern 1st coat...and to be honest i mostly dont ..certainly on plasterboard.......and dont overshine your work.....if done like this your finiosh cannot be beaten by any other spread........sorry to sound like im right lol...but i am...and ill take the pepsi challenge with any spread for this lol
 
phippsy333 said:
layon 1st coat approx 2mm then flattern, small brush to corners, lay on second coat approx 1mm then flattern, small brush corner , wet trowel with a spray but only the min water to lube trowel edge, then dry trowel.... then twitcher (internal corner trowel) on corners.......this is the way to get the best finish....some dont flattern 1st coat...and to be honest i mostly dont ..certainly on plasterboard.......and dont overshine your work.....if done like this your finiosh cannot be beaten by any other spread........sorry to sound like im right lol...but i am...and ill take the pepsi challenge with any spread for this lol

I'll take on the pepsi challenge.
Your not right.

Scim tape your joints, make a small mix and lay up over the scrim only filling in the tapper edge of the board, leave for ten minutes, lay up your first coat and flatten in, leave for ten minutes, clean edges, mix up second coat and lay up and work as normal ....


Rich Brown
 
why would you wanna use tapered edge board if youre skimming it?
(yeh i know weve had this discussion before but not for a while for the new lads)..
 
Tapered edge is much better for skimming in my opinion is allows you to bed in the scrim well before you plaster it (so you dont get your first coat going off on the plaster joints) ,also if the boards have been dabbed on or if the stud isnt 100% then you can get scrim burning through where as with tapered boards you dont get it so much.

Rich Brown
 
rich...not talking about preping.....was talking about plastering after prep....of course i scrim and run a stripe over scrim....but never use tapered edge.....thought that was for drylining tape and join...but prep would be different depending on job...so dont u pva/bondit/bekonnect then? lol.....
 
down ereeee all we seem to use is tapered board and to be honest I always find I get a better finish because of what I said above also te board is cheaper than se !.

Rich Brown
 
....well i reckon tapered edge is cheaper cos theres more of it being used, means the merchants can buy more etc..
but its bein used for tape and join..
i just see smimming taperered edge as an extra hassle to worry about..
lay a coat in the join a la t+j then skim as normal hoping to god then when its dried out completely the thicker (dead straight line) area of plaster doesnt shrink more than the rest thereby makin it visible when its painted..
yeh i do get the odd bit of scrim showing every now and again, but like you say its usually down to dodgy boarding.
and i can get rid of a bit of visible scrim by throwing half a trowel off the next set on it wide, let it go and wet trowel it using my big wetbrush ;D
i see your point but its just too much hassle for me to fix somehing that aint broke..
i seen lads cutting their render back metre high on damp jobs to match the plaster line up???
cant get me head round that one either... i always scrim the join and feather it in good 5 inch or so..
 
It depends on the system you are using too if its sound rated partitions, or high impact, soundbloc and duraline boards only come in T/E.
 
im with segs on this..cant see that tappered would make any difference....as long as you run a muck up the join before spreading cant see theres would ever be a problem....it t/e works for u fair enough , i just think its slightly weird to use tape and join / dryining plasterboard when the square adge works fine...if t/e cheaper fair enough...but round my way its more expensive so theres no way id use it mainly cause there aint a prob in 1st place.....but painting a big brush up a wall i think is rather dirty lol...im spray all the way...although have been known to use a brush when pushed on reveals....to bring back to life but have been told to much water weakens end product so try and keep away from doing it now
 
1: The plaster doesnt shrink back and I have never seen any lines after its painted.
2: I flick a small amount of water on the wall using a brush, have tried the spray years ago went back to brush.
3: TE board is more forgiving when dabbing
4: 1 MM is to thin as a second coat
5: I am never wrong
6: I am full of S***

Rich b
 
gotta agree with rich it makes more sense i always use tapered boards and how anyone cant see they are better for the reasons given i give up ........lol
 
i agree to disagree then boys.... but whats all this about 1mm to thin for second coat tho, 2mm 1st 1mm second..any thicker and chances of cracking goes up.....or so gypsum tech department says...;o)
 
The gypsum tech department dont know s**t all, I have phoned them a few times to complain about their gear and they always blame something else.

I think that 1 mm is to thin as a top coat only my opinion

Rich b
 
fair enough...its the way i was taught at college and by my mentor...has served me well...ive never had a prob with it.....but agree gypsum are normally full of shite,or should i say their multi normally is...told me that they were cleaning out their furbnaces and thats why their multi had black bits in...yeah right
 
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