How to put right a bad job?

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Dogchops

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Problem 1

The outside of my extended property has been smooth rendered, partly new walls, and partly old. the old walls were smooth (sand/cement)rendered over existing painted Tyrolean type finish. the plasterers assured the finish would stick on the existing finish but after 6 months it is cracking and hollow spots all over.

Problem 2

The render is REALLY bumpy. Very high and low spots. Is there any type of flat grinder that this can be flattened off with? Or how can this be dealt with.

To top it off there is minimal clearance on the window overhangs.

And the builder is not interested!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Any help & advice would be great.
 
Knock it off A rerender might not be perfect the existing stuff could be all over the shop I'd make more of a point about the cracks and hollows get you'reoney back and get someone else in
 
Looks like only one way to deal with it. Aaarghh!!!!!!!!!!

Any suggestions on the best method to remove the render.
 
hire a chipper gun a decent one tuff work remember preperation is everything every last bit needs to come off and then a good wetting down to remove all dust.good luck not a good position.

just to let you know you can go over painted tyrolean it can be done just sounds like you got the wrong crew. when choosing your next lot ask to see them in action on a render job preferably with some of the job finished so you can see a before and after.

im confused slightly when you say the builder is not interested. was it his plasterers and have all monies been paid.if it was his plasterers you shud have some come back although i agree its difficult.perhaps citizens advice can help.

what part of the country are you maybe there s someone on this forum who can meet you look at the job and give you some proper advice
 
The builder isnt interested ? . hollow and cracking render , lumps and bumps . The job has not been done right ! get the builder interested , he must have given you some kind of gaurentee

Blade
 
This angers the crap out of me.... we all know very good plasterers that are currently sat at home because work has been hard to find yet you get chancers like this that get the work and cant carry it out correctly!

I feel really sorry for this member.... makes the plastering profession look bad and gives every single plasterer a bad name and people wonder why the prices have dropped... maybe because the general publics opinion has changed on what use to be regarded as a skilled trade....

Good luck and keep us updated with whats happening and if there is anything that we as a forum can do to help ie give us your location I am sure we can get a renderer that actually has half a brain to make sure its done properly next time

Danny
 
its his choice of words.... not the 'PLASTERER' isnt interested... its the 'BUILDER' isnt interested...

I wouldnt be at all surprised if the lads he's used for the job have very limited rendering experience...

and the fact that he's not interested just says it all really...

I've worked for 'builders' before, cards in sort of thing...

one for example was an ex-plasterer, and a good one at that, I was with him a good few years...

others were just chancers, 'businesspeople' who exploit tradesmen so they can drive flash cars and call themselves 'successful'...

He isnt much of a 'builder' if he's not interested that a finish job he's carried out, visible to everyone who passes by, is ridiculously poor quality....

anything on paper? or was it done for the cheapest quote?

maybe you'll get away with the odd bit of patching on the cheap, or cheap kitchen fit, but full scale rendering? forget it...

And if youve paid top dollar....

Name and shame, expert witnesses, go through the courts....

Whereabouts are you mate?
 
Some great advice for DC here i see. I'm new here but i have to say i've experienced my fair share of chancers, i had a guy come with me on a job i was desperate to get done. As soon as he started putting on i knew he was no good, plus the alarm bells rang when his tool bucket was smaller than my lunch box!!

The scary thing was he said he didn't do much site work and prefered private cash jobs! so f**k knows what he'd been inflicting on un-suspecting little old ladies!!

All i can suggest is that hind sight being what it is, in future ask to see the guys work and contact his previous customers, anyone worth their salt wouldn't mind supplying a new customer with such details. I know i wouldn't and neither would many of the other guys here.

Good luck and hope it all goes well :RpS_thumbup:
 
i could come over sounding a bit arsie here,but i would never render/dash over exsisting render,and never over teroleon,would of thought the weight of the render would take the teroleon off. ive always knocked off,even if its down to the scratch coat(as long as its rock hard)
ive just had to re do a council house the other week,where a bunch of lads came up from liverpool and rendered over the painted render with the powder mixed scrim stuff,
its great stuff,ive used the dashing one,weatherby i think,but this stuff blew off within 6months. i had to knock 4 coats off:glare:,the scrim stuff had blown off the old render.
ive just knocked another one off last week,down to the blockwork,i don't know what they put over the old render on this one,it was a really thin coat of render,nasty s**t man.:RpS_cursing:
 
well this is what im getting out of the lads that use the thincoat systems...
background prep is background prep, basic plastering knowledge covers the fact that anything loose has gotta come off... end of on that one... but anything left on, well, long as its solid, and by that i mean F@cking solid then theres products that will go over that, stick like sh't to a blanket and provide a perfect even suction keyed background for another sticky topcoat that will last for years...

point is, youve gotta know your sh't......
 
In a perfect world we would all hack off but there is ocassion when the brick work starts to break down as you are hacking off if we ever have to go over existing we always use riblath but that can have its problems if not fixed correctly i have worked for builders who think they can fix it on for you and totally f**k it up.
 
so its dub it back out then innit? brickwork of that age always shells a bit what you supposed to do?

NIGHTMARE!

theres a word or several im trying to think of here but the bottom line is...

you really do need to know your sh't, and suction is what its all about...

leave that part of the equation out and youve completely missed the point, trying to apply traditional render in the same way you can apply modern render to a substrate is a compete waste of time...

as bod just said, or even lets read between the line of the thread ending up with bod... either have it right back to brick and do the job properly or MECANICALLY fix something for the 'render' (read aggregate mixed with binder) to hold onto...

easy innit? crack on then... :RpS_blink:
 
i did a job the other month,a big old stone gable,it had been brush pointed. it was a house bought by burnley council to renovate.
i had to knock off any loose pointing,then teroleaned on a SBR/cement slurry,screw and fix on 50 sheets of EML:RpS_scared:, put 4 expantion joints in,scratch it twice to try and get somewhere near,then k rend.
it was a nightmare of a job,the eml cuts you to shreds:RpS_mad:
 
naughty naughty building control man... :RpS_blink: wonder what the excuse / reason was? unless the planning for the job had been approved before april 2010... then theyre covered...
 
only joking mate
the used the metal partition shite to cover the walls,and all external walls were boarded with insulation boards and skimmed.
i think its the biggest load of b*ll***s all this insulation shite,remember when they said cavity fill insulation was the dogs bollox,now,round my way they are taking all the shite out,because of damp.
same go's for all this screwing insulation boards on to old outside render,then rendering over,im not convinced this will last,and where i live it rains 11 1/2 months of the year,and when water finds its way behind the render stuff and hits the boards,which it has started doing on a few around here ,they will all want doing again,
more work for us i suppose:rolleyes)
 
yeh well im not all that clued up on EIFS cos its relatively new innit but ive been insulating internally on garage conversions etc for donkeys and by god, the difference it makes is unbelievable... you'll stick a tiny little 600 square single rad in there and youll still turn it down.... still, garage conversion involves all the walls, floor and roof so it would make a difference... just goes to show though...
 
im all for insulating stuff,but theirs such thing as going overboard:RpS_thumbup:

my new extention loft was insulated,they said i had to have 2 times as much high so i put it in 12 months later,just to piss my mate off,who was the building inspector:RpS_cool:,and i swear,my wife is the coldest person in the world,she would be cold on the ******* eqator,but she says there is no differance what so ever,and thats with adding another nearly 12" over my 4"
 
The good news dogchops if there can be any good news is the render over the Tyrolean type finish may come off very easily. Try a small area with a hammer and chisel if it falls off buy a cheap chipper from the local DIY and get struck in. With the render over new brick or block work if its not been painted it can be given a cement SBR slurry coat and re rendered. Oh! as other posts have said you ready have no choice but to take it off and have it re-done
Just so you know your are not the only one in the sh*** coved a house with cracked lathe & plaster ceilings told the client they had to be overboarded and not just skimmed, however another spread said they would be ok because he will tape the cracks. Client had the ceilings skimmed and I have just finished coving and guess what all the ceilings are starting to crack after only 3 weeks and now they are coved so if he wants to overboard them all that lovely new coving will have to come down.
 
Capital spread said:
The good news dogchops if there can be any good news is the render over the Tyrolean type finish may come off very easily. Try a small area with a hammer and chisel if it falls off buy a cheap chipper from the local DIY and get struck in. With the render over new brick or block work if its not been painted it can be given a cement SBR slurry coat and re rendered. Oh! as other posts have said you ready have no choice but to take it off and have it re-done
Just so you know your are not the only one in the sh*** coved a house with cracked lathe & plaster ceilings told the client they had to be overboarded and not just skimmed, however another spread said they would be ok because he will tape the cracks. Client had the ceilings skimmed and I have just finished coving and guess what all the ceilings are starting to crack after only 3 weeks and now they are coved so if he wants to overboard them all that lovely new coving will have to come down.
Click to expand...

i see it all the time and have had many reskim crack on me,but now i use fibres in the first coat and i promise they eliminate cracking ,this and one of those bonding agents like wba pretty much guarantee none
 
I had employed a small builder to do the complete job, he brought in subbies that he had supposedly used for years. The renderers got there money from the builder then f****d off. I am so annoyed that the builder had assured me he was going to sort the problems, but now i cant get hold of him. Thankfully I had held back some monies, but with the extent of the work that I am left with its going to cost me dear to put right.

I am in south devon if there is any proper renderers interested in having a look.
 
Don't know of any proper renderers down that way , but Richard Brown might be able to help he's down that way i think :RpS_laugh: only kidding Richard should be able to put you right , or Simpley think he's that way on
 
For the record dogchops that Tyrolean type finish will require having sheets of EML (expanded metal lath) fixed over it at 300mm centres, thats not cheap !
 
Hi Dogchops .... I am based in Plymouth but work all over the south west, feel free to give me a call and I will do my best to help you out.

07793748366

Richard
 
Hi mate seen it all before
Couldn't be bothered to chop the old render off, so just rendered over it
No quick fix, start again and get the job done properly, you need to take it back to the brick with a good key for the scratch coat to bond.
 
rockhardsolidplastering said:
i see it all the time and have had many reskim crack on me,but now i use fibres in the first coat and i promise they eliminate cracking ,this and one of those bonding agents like wba pretty much guarantee none
Click to expand...

would this be on walls or on old lathe and plaster ceilings? keep getting cracks appear in my old terrace house which i re skimmed
 
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