How high should a stop bead be above a DPC?

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Adam69

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I am getting an external wall at ground level rendered ( 9 inch solid wall no cavity ) with sand cement. The question I am debating is how high should the stop bead be above the DPC, can it be just above it? The current DPC is only two bricks above ground level. Thanks for any advice!
 
Thanks Jessop. When you say just above, would 3 cms be enough? Would a stop bead be okay if the wall wasn't massively exposed to the weather. It has a over hang from the roof above that covers it from rain quite well. Or in your experience a bell bead is a must, would you still put a bell bead on monocouche?. The plasterers said it would look more attractive with a stop bead rather than a bell bead.
 
Blackjack ?do they still make that **** ,that nothing will stick to ,remember we used to blind it with sharp sand
 
God,some strange people on here, a stop bead can be used ,sometimes we fit them back to back with silicone in between ,this way you can render to the bottom, it sounds weird but it passes building control .
 
johniosaif said:
God,some strange people on here, a stop bead can be used ,sometimes we fit them back to back with silicone in between ,this way you can render to the bottom, it sounds weird but it passes building control .
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I agree with you mate. We give client the option. But alot of people dont seem to like back to backs along dpc. Their house i suppose
 
Dansouthcoast84 said:
I agree with you mate. We give client the option. But alot of people dont seem to like back to backs along dpc. Their house i suppose
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We had to put them in ,I don't think the work but the are passed .some don't like the bell cast, like you I give advice and options but I won't take the blame if it's not heeded
 
Put nails along the motor bed and sit the bead on top, keeps them nice and straight.
QUOTE=bobspread;812881]can never seem to get them straight ,although they may look straight you get on your hands and knees and look down them theyre up and down like jordans knickers[/QUOTE]
 
bobspread said:
can never seem to get them straight ,although they may look straight you get on your hands and knees and look down them theyre up and down like jordans knickers
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i get the plastic ones from screw fix they are 10x better than the metal ones
 
Arti said:
ive recently switched to using the mono to stick the beads on....................and i kinda like it...................:RpS_thumbup:
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Ocr too, working for an ott ocd builder last week, I ended up been ccnd as he went and googled and called technical on every offered solution,,
 
Being a 9" solid wall or you talking about a dpc which is a coating of bitumen laid on the horizontal bed of bricks? Not a line of bricks with two holes drilled in (chemical dpc).

You need a drip bead not a stop bead. This needs fitting on the dpc not above. The reason is being so close to the ground there will be rain water splash up which will soak the bottom bricks and any exposed bricks above the dpc will get wet, absorb and could cause rising damp.

The rules are the render should be a minimum 150mm above the ground. Well in this case it also needs fitting to the dpc and it will not be the drip bead is too near the ground but the ground is too near the dpc. The ground is wrong and needs lowering.

I had this issue on a job I did and the buyers surveyor pulled me on this and I challenged him. In the end he agreed I was right but as far as the 150mm rule was concerned I was the easiest to blame but he then turned and insisted on either a channel dug out or the ground lowered.
 
Rigsby said:
Being a 9" solid wall or you talking about a dpc which is a coating of bitumen laid on the horizontal bed of bricks? Not a line of bricks with two holes drilled in (chemical dpc).

You need a drip bead not a stop bead. This needs fitting on the dpc not above. The reason is being so close to the ground there will be rain water splash up which will soak the bottom bricks and any exposed bricks above the dpc will get wet, absorb and could cause rising damp.

The rules are the render should be a minimum 150mm above the ground. Well in this case it also needs fitting to the dpc and it will not be the drip bead is too near the ground but the ground is too near the dpc. The ground is wrong and needs lowering.

I had this issue on a job I did and the buyers surveyor pulled me on this and I challenged him. In the end he agreed I was right but as far as the 150mm rule was concerned I was the easiest to blame but he then turned and insisted on either a channel dug out or the ground lowered.
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You can by pass this with silicone along the bead ,
 
Maybe in theory? But a surveyor could say the render below the dpc can absorb the rising damp, pass the damp up the render and then pass it through the brick above the dpc.

You could argue if the below dpc render is waterproofed then it cant happen. Well thats true so long as you can prove it.
 
Rigsby said:
Maybe in theory? But a surveyor could say the render below the dpc can absorb the rising damp, pass the damp up the render and then pass it through the brick above the dpc.

You could argue if the below dpc render is waterproofed then it cant happen. Well thats true so long as you can prove it.
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It's already proven theoretically ,like you I am sceptical.i have done it a few times and it's passed building control surveyors. Some build without considering the external finish and new so,unions have to be sought,
 
Rigsby, The house was built in 1908 and the back kitchen wall is solid 9". The DPC is two layers of slate with sand and lime/cement between them. I can I put screw fixings into the DPC here so I can fix the bell bead? Thanks
 
The bottom of the back of the drip wants to be in line with the dpc so you will most likely be fixing into the perps.
 
So just to confirm Rigsby, the bottom of the bell bead drip should be in line with the bottom of the DPC or at the top of it?. If it as the bottom it will cover the DPC, if at the top it wont be. My DPC is about 20mm thick. As long as the fixing mesh on the bell bead is thicker/higher than 20mm I will be able to fix to the perps as suggested. Thanks
 
20mm is unusual, usually 10mm. But yeah, anywhere along the dpc and I talking of the backside bottom edge not the front of the drip.
 
jamesthefirst said:
Whats your opinion on stop beads at the dpc line with the new modern render/ scaped finishes?
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No good at all. The drip is there for water to drip off the front. Fit a stop and the water runs down, then onto the underside then continues down the wall.

Think of having a window sill with no drip. Defeats the object of having a sill.
 
Rigsby said:
Maybe in theory? But a surveyor could say the render below the dpc can absorb the rising damp, pass the damp up the render and then pass it through the brick above the dpc.

You could argue if the below dpc render is waterproofed then it cant happen. Well thats true so long as you can prove it.
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Bite. Erm that rising damp you speak of would be more accurately called penetrating damp. Right, I'm off :RpS_laugh:
 
Always use stop beads along dpc and never had any problems. Mine has been on 8 years and no probs with damp and all the lads we work for on site send stop beads to use.

QUOTE=Rigsby;813056]No good at all. The drip is there for water to drip off the front. Fit a stop and the water runs down, then onto the underside then continues down the wall.

Think of having a window sill with no drip. Defeats the object of having a sill.[/QUOTE]
 
you could stick a stop bead below the dpc line,then just above this you stick a bell mouth bead leaving a 10mm gap so as not to bridge the dpc ,unless u get on your hands and Knees u would never see the gap cos the bell bead is masking it (this is of course if you want to render down to the ground)
 
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