hardwall and lathes?

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tuk

New Member
never done this before,

the lathes seem in decent nick but they also seem gappy to me ...I was thinking of covering the lathes in scrim tape to give the hardwall a better footing..but maybe this is wrong? ...also how long does hardwall need to dry before going over with multi?

thnx
 

essexandy

The Lake Governor
Lathes are supposed to be "gappy" that's how they work.
Set the Hardwall onced a fair bit has started to change colour.
I've never used Hardwall over lathes, I'm not sure it's the best thing to use ???
 

napper83

Private Member
use bonding and skim it once its gone off dont scrim the lathes your defeating the object of the gaps
 

tuk

New Member
excellent lads cheers for the knowledge

I was fantasizing about undercoat seeping and setting between those gaps ..but wasn't sure
 

hollybank

Private Member
Use bonding and before you do paint some watered down pva on the laths so it sticks to the lath not the dust.The gaps create the key for the plaster to stick to,so it kinda hooks over the lath behind the smooth surface.Skim away when the bonding has turned.
 

oasis

New Member
yea boonding and loads of PVA or just wet them up loads.. messy job! and i CAN NEVER SEE THYES PICS?
 

tuk

New Member
one last question

on both sides of the door frame there's about 3-4" strip of wall level with the door frame ..a skim would take it higher ..what to do?
 

kebab king

Private Member
As Rich says, but i normally use Bonding, its just normally whats on the van.In Riches case its normally packed out with empty sandwich bags, cos theres always loads on the floor in the van.
 

phippsy333

Member
dont be a bunch of muppets use eml then universal one coat plaster by gypsum..has more addhesive in it than bonding does.then skim area 2 coats with fibres in 1st coat.....but either way use eml (expanded metal lathe) is a must in my book which is attached to lathes first either by staples or screws.( or in bigger areas plasterboard )........then pva to seal dust then universal or bonding...but universal is better...probably get slated for this ...but... i do these day in day out...a good 60% of my work is on period property victorian , georgian and older........really guys use eml.....to each their own tho not trying to tell me grandmother how to lay eggs ............., ......in saying that if its a very small area just plaster would be ok with some scrim over the top then skim...but not in that picture that tuk has put up i would def use eml in that situation or bigger areas.
ive heard kebab king uses gingster pie rappers, as that whats in his van!
as stated by someone hardwall is for high suction and hardwalls!...bonding works but one coat better....
doing a restaurant ceiling patchup work in about 1/2 an hour today.....lathe and plaster and i will be using eml one coat then skimming...its the way forward..cause i know it will last!
 

s.p.t plastering

Active Member
phippsy333 said:
dont be a bunch of muppets use eml then universal one coat plaster by gypsum..has more addhesive in it than bonding does.then skim area 2 coats with fibres in 1st coat.....but either way use eml (expanded metal lathe) is a must in my book which is attached to lathes first either by staples or screws.( or in bigger areas plasterboard )........then pva to seal dust then universal or bonding...but universal is better...probably get slated for this ...but... i do these day in day out...a good 60% of my work is on period property victorian , georgian and older........really guys use eml.....to each their own tho not trying to tell me grandmother how to lay eggs ............., ......in saying that if its a very small area just plaster would be ok with some scrim over the top then skim...but not in that picture that tuk has put up i would def use eml in that situation or bigger areas.
ive heard kebab king uses gingster pie rappers, as that whats in his van!
as stated by someone hardwall is for high suction and hardwalls!...bonding works but one coat better....
doing a restaurant ceiling patchup work in about 1/2 an hour today.....lathe and plaster and i will be using eml one coat then skimming...its the way forward..cause i know it will last!

If your useing universal one coat, surely you don't need to skim it.

As it's designed for one coat.
 

playwhatyouwant

New Member
Hi,

Its easy, just use fibre mesh with hard wall, bonding, browning or one coat, apply 2 to 3 mm of base coat then bed the fiber mesh into it, making sure you over lap it by 20mm, then skim normal.
 

playwhatyouwant

New Member
The use of scrim or fiber mesh is to bond the materials, just like eml would as to say interlocks the materials giving it less chance to move hense no cracks.
 

skimmin2day

Active Member
Mate if it's only and small patch 3-4" wide like the photo appears use what ever u got be it hardwall,bonding or one coat.Just keep the wood damp throught.Make sure all the plaster is removed from above the lathes.
ideally you should use bonding as there is some movement in bonding.
If you gotta go out and by the plaster ,personally id go for onecoat for speed and ease.
 

simplybesty

Private Member
how many times can someones question be answered even when they have said thanks and most proberly done the job by know. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

And mr Kabab, stop calling me and asking me question and then posting them on here making out your the man, your not, your just a big fatty ;D
 

phippsy333

Member
s.p.t plastering said:
phippsy333 said:
dont be a bunch of muppets use eml then universal one coat plaster by gypsum..has more addhesive in it than bonding does.then skim area 2 coats with fibres in 1st coat.....but either way use eml (expanded metal lathe) is a must in my book which is attached to lathes first either by staples or screws.( or in bigger areas plasterboard )........then pva to seal dust then universal or bonding...but universal is better...probably get slated for this ...but... i do these day in day out...a good 60% of my work is on period property victorian , georgian and older........really guys use eml.....to each their own tho not trying to tell me grandmother how to lay eggs ............., ......in saying that if its a very small area just plaster would be ok with some scrim over the top then skim...but not in that picture that tuk has put up i would def use eml in that situation or bigger areas.
ive heard kebab king uses gingster pie rappers, as that whats in his van!
as stated by someone hardwall is for high suction and hardwalls!...bonding works but one coat better....
doing a restaurant ceiling patchup work in about 1/2 an hour today.....lathe and plaster and i will be using eml one coat then skimming...its the way forward..cause i know it will last!

If your useing universal one coat, surely you don't need to skim it.

As it's designed for one coat.

i wouldnt use it as a finish plaster in t6his situation as feathering in out onto lime plaster brings all the "gritty Bits" out.....and i think the finish of it is shite, but as a backing plaster for most backgrounds including lime plasterers is fantastic.........
But the best comment on here by far is simplys...... about kebab boy ...hes not the man.....hes a great big gaylord paul.....fair comment......do as i do and switch your phone off..or even better bar his number.........think he likes u in a special way ;o0
 

nelly

Private Member
Another answer just for him above :)


The easiest way is too cut it square and board it.

And to answer about grip if useing backing coat, when we're doing lime plastering that is made from lime and sharp sand now thats a proper pain to get to stay up I can tell you
 

tuk

New Member
cant have too many replies ..this is my first real attempt at plastering and trying to absorb as much as possible so multiple opinions are very helpful ...specially when you get 'why' with 'how'

..practice: small storage cupboard ..4 walls, doorframe, ceiling + lathe repair

in the spirit of using whats at hand ...im thinking of scrimmin the lathes(leave a few gaps) ..fill out with bonding coat ..then press in more scrim while its wet then skim with multi

tbh ..it really needs ripping out and boarding as suggested ...but i dont want to do anything major ..and need the trowel time over anything else ..saying that tho I have a similar lathe issue elsewhere that will need repaired so all good practice ...at the end of the job ..I might go back and rip the cupboard out anyway just to do it right and for the extra praccy

cheers..
 

skimmin2day

Active Member
The truth is mate u should be overboarding and skimmin it!!! The ceilings had its day and aint got a lot of life left in it.
 

nelly

Private Member
skimmin2day said:
The truth is mate u should be overboarding and skimmin it!!! The ceilings had its day and aint got a lot of life left in it.

English Heritage will have you sent to the tower for talk like that matey :)
 

oasis

New Member
iv got a bay window 2 do 2moro. its brick work that been battoned out then laths on it and them plastered.. but its all blow-en.. its in a hexagon bay shape. so do you thin i should bond the laths out and free hand the shape or plasterboard over the laths fingin into the battons. and the skirting will still be on so may need to pack out the board?
 

nelly

Private Member
oasis said:
iv got a bay window 2 do 2moro. its brick work that been battoned out then laths on it and them plastered.. but its all blow-en.. its in a hexagon bay shape. so do you thin i should bond the laths out and free hand the shape or plasterboard over the laths fingin into the battons. and the skirting will still be on so may need to pack out the board?

Pull the laths off and board it is the easiest I think
 
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