Hardball.

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Glynn6670

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Have a large house that client wants done in hardwall, really don’t want to hand apply so has anyone used a spray machine for this.? Any review welcome..
 
Have a large house that client wants done in hardwall, really don’t want to hand apply so has anyone used a spray machine for this.? Any review welcome..
Yeah, years ago too, the machine we used must of overmixed it or something, didnt rub up well at all, just teared up was load of s**t actually.
 
Why on earth would you use that . What's going to give it a key
Can't understand the logic of adding water to a setting plaster , gypsum doesn't re-react so it's bad practice imo , that said was done a lot on jobs I was on in earlier years and didn't hear of failures , just to make it easier to flatten and was still deviled afterwards
 
Can't understand the logic of adding water to a setting plaster , gypsum doesn't re-react so it's bad practice imo , that said was done a lot on jobs I was on in earlier years and didn't hear of failures , just to make it easier to flatten and was still deviled afterwards
Bonding and hardwall rub up better with a slight splash of water on it reduces tearing
 
If you consider how course the finish is on Bonding or Hardwall compared to plasterboard, I would not be worried about devil floating to get a key.
The biggest problem is the suction, too much next day, too little same day.
 
Well how do you cut the angles in a d take off the high spots never heard of that method tbh ??
Back end of trowel , try to do opposites in relay so 1 wall is a coat ahead on corners ,,, carefully lol ,
what high spots , feather edge
 
I'm sure there was a thread on here before about keying hardball. Bg told someone on here it doesn't have to be scratched same day. You don't scratch plasterboard.
 
High spots the devil float takes of . No matter how flat you rule it you'll still get high spots

Shouldn't have high spots , flatten first coat and second with feather edge , same as s&c , those who don't rule their scratch coat are fighting a loosing battle with suction and shows at the finish
 
My dad use to slap on first coat , go straight on with second then start ruling , I use to scratch my head as you could see first coat in patches , dries inconsistently and out came the water bucket , similar with his finish

My mum says I'm the best lol
 
I'm sure there was a thread on here before about keying hardball. Bg told someone on here it doesn't have to be scratched same day. You don't scratch plasterboard.
BG ha ha there all failed ballbags ha ha I must of been shown the wrong methods after all these year oh well
 
My dad use to slap on first coat , go straight on with second then start ruling , I use to scratch my head as you could see first coat in patches , dries inconsistently and out came the water bucket , similar with his finish

My mum says I'm the best lol
I don't put it on in two coats. One coat on between screeds and ruled off, same as with sand and cement.
 
Nothing wrong with lot's of methods as they all get there in the end , I assume you devil float it and leave it for a while
I just think plastering is all about suction control and each layers easier to produce good results with a constant depth and suck ,,,,, blah blah nah nah na-nahnah
Are you pissed Andy , only for a moment there I thought you were actually taking me seriously lol , gotta go feed the pony and early night , second day working this week , must be doing something wrong
 
If you skim same day it does not need a key.
absolute bollox backing coats should be keyed up at every stage no matter how long you've left them to dry before skimming....even says on back of bags to devil float in preparation for skim
you've even put in another post that you use an orange sponge float to give a 'lovely finish' for skim
and you don't need to scratch board before skimming because it's the very fine paper fibres on the boards that gives the skim a key


do you actually know what the fk you are doing?

@Danny I know I'm retired mate but giz a part time job moderating on here to rid the forum of clueless chancers
 
absolute bollox backing coats should be keyed up at every stage no matter how long you've left them to dry before skimming....even says on back of bags to devil float in preparation for skim
you've even put in another post that you use an orange sponge float to give a 'lovely finish' for skim
and you don't need to scratch board before skimming because it's the very fine paper fibres on the boards that gives the skim a key


do you actually know what the fk you are doing?

@Danny I know I'm retired mate but giz a part time job moderating on here to rid the forum of clueless chancers
Well said pal forum full of gunslingers . Fuk me I'm 49 years old been in the trade since 16 never heard s**t like it. Half these loons coul8float down the Manchester ship canal ffs lol
 
Screenshot_20210311-205036_Gallery.jpg
 
Nothing wrong with lot's of methods as they all get there in the end , I assume you devil float it and leave it for a while
I just think plastering is all about suction control and each layers easier to produce good results with a constant depth and suck ,,,,, blah blah nah nah na-nahnah
Are you pissed Andy , only for a moment there I thought you were actually taking me seriously lol , gotta go feed the pony and early night , second day working this week , must be doing something wrong
Yes I do generally pass a devil float over Hardwall and Bonding, but not because I'm bothered about keying it. A mixture of the open texture of the surface and suction takes care of adhesion. The float is there to tidy up the floating coat and show up any shallow hollows. As I've said before, I have the screws in my float set to give a very light scratch.
I only reply to you Bof with sensible answers as part of my role with 'care in the community', trying to make you feel normal and valued.
 
Just for the record
I'd like to point out , that at no point during my method has any layer dried out sufficiently to put a float over it


Lol
 
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