Floating over thermalite blockwork

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DannyMac said:
Site work is very repetitive, all new too so not so much skill needed to get a good result.

More knowledge is needed on domestic.
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believe it or not site work does include refurbs but I suppose you knew that before you posted you're reply
 
i do referbs in london that are classed as comercial sites, i diddnt know they were comercial untill a little while ago
 
You can call just about any building having large works done on it a (building) site, but you know what I mean........
 
Sorry I meant carrot,apparently that's what they have used in the new uni-finish as a retarder.you steam it to soften it then rub it over the wall,soon to be available for machine application.
 
jack88 said:
site work (commercial work) requires experience and skill to hit the meterage expected to commercial standards, which is scrutinised!!...all work has to be bang on!! or it will not be passed and you will not be getting payed....if a spread has experience in commercial work u know they're standards are to a commercial level which is to british standards simple as that....domestic spreads vary from top experienced spreads to general builders to painters & decorators to just about anyone who calls themself a plasterer..
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I do a lot of commercial AND domestic work down in london, and all the plastering i see on commercial sites down here is SHITE.
 
edthespread said:
I do a lot of commercial AND domestic work down in london, and all the plastering i see on commercial sites down here is SHITE.
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All the sites i've been on in the last 7 years snag u on anything that is'nt up to standard..u either don't get payed and chucked off site or you will be back to put it right in your own time...floating tolerances, misses, reveal measurements etc etc...any excuse to **** over the subbies and the powers will use it...i have also seen crap work on site, but its been snagged and the plasterers sacked...the work will not be passed if its shite, simple as that??? on domestics 9 times out of 10 u will get payed for your labour, any misses etc will be picked up by the decorators...totally different ballgame
 
lilharbs said:
Sorry I meant carrot,apparently that's what they have used in the new uni-finish as a retarder.you steam it to soften it then rub it over the wall,soon to be available for machine application.
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Ah that makes a lot more sense
 
does it still work if i steam a turnip?? just wondering as i have a turnip but not got any carrotts:RpS_thumbdn:
 
use one of these lighty spray the wall first with WATER the fine mist sits on the surface and keeps suction at bay, done it for years using hadrwall on thermalite and duro blocks. if you find it still sucks in to fast, lay the hardwall on faster lol
 
spunky said:
I don't like skimming it if I didn't pva the blocks id pva the hardwall
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Why ?? do you not skim the hardwall on the same day? float till about midday then skim what you have floated, no need to waste money on pva or time painting it on
 
ive gotta float an set an 8x3meter wall new thermo blocks, thinkin i might give ita quick pva other never done this always hosed wall down but this one is a bit tricky an tall
 
These blocks crack for fun, always better talking whoever into letting you dot and dab IMO.

If they don't listen and the wall stress fractures, then you can laugh in their faces and call them a cretin.
 
slim said:
ive gotta float an set an 8x3meter wall new thermo blocks, thinkin i might give ita quick pva other never done this always hosed wall down but this one is a bit tricky an tall
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Don't mess about with PVA just use box screeds and it makes no difference how large the wall is,
http://sandonplastering.co.uk/Light...llsize/internal-plastering-21-w700x500_fs.jpg
This one was 13m X 2.9m and was easier to do than three 3m long walls.

DannyMac said:
These blocks crack for fun, always better talking whoever into letting you dot and dab IMO.

If they don't listen and the wall stress fractures, then you can laugh in their faces and call them a cretin.
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Sorry Danny but that's just not right. If the mixes are correct (both yours and the brickies) then they don't crack to badly and as most agree a solid job is preferable to D+D even with the odd crack.
 
It's got nothing to do with the mixes, it's the density of the blocks.

And how is it a solid job when the substrate is like pumice?
 
DannyMac said:
It's got nothing to do with the mixes, it's the density of the blocks.

And how is it a solid job when the substrate is like pumice?
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It's got everything to do with the mixes. To strong a mix at either the blocklaying or plastering stage is what causes most of the cracks with these lightweight blocks. Get the mixes right and they're a great material to build with.
It's still a nice solid job when S&C is applied correctly over Celcon, Thermalite or Durox blocks.
 
Gonna have to agree to disagree on this I think Andy, those lightweight blocks are tripe IMO. I would never call using them a solid job.

The render on them might be a solid job however, but as a whole, no.
 
some of the lightweight blocks do not have any scratched key on them. i think that sand and cement floating went out with the ark. i would use hardwall if it had to be floated but would dot and dab if given the choice. sand and cement repels the finish where hardwall takes the finish in well. dot and dab hides the cracks and cuts down on the builders maintenance
 
Sand and cement wins hands down every time why we have change a winning formula is beyond me.
Oh I know knauf,larfarge and Bg lobbying ministers hence dab and dot which is fecking shite and still cracks.
 
must sat i prefer a nice floated finish over boards but sometimes for speed dot and dab is they way to go
 
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