External corners (no beads)

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xyzplasterer

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How do you form external corners without using beads?

Some corners are 6 metres high from ground level, I'm using Eco Cork render (2 coats)

I've done bellcasts before using timer and wetting it down is it a similar method for corners...

The elevations are large so I wont be doing both sides of the corner the same day.

Thanks
 
I did a mono job without beads and fixed timbers to the openings and corners. What is eco cork render?

On the mono i had the corner timbers bevelled but the openings I went up to the timbers, removed them and then held a straight edge up for the reveals or what ever people call them.
 
I would use some smooth plained 4x1 for the open ended corners, it holds its shape and a timber yard will have it in the 6m lengths you need, much easier and quicker to set up when there are no joins to contend with.

Plain or router an angle on the edge of your timber you don't want it 45 as your corner will be so thin it will probably break when you remove your batten, 25-30 degrees will be about right, your render will wrap round slightly onto the next wall bbut this just adds strength to your exposed corner, wrap your batten in clingfilm and pin it to the wall, either Dutch pins or screw and plug.
set it up so you can rule and rub to it, remove the batten when you come to do the adjacent wall.
 
As wezly said, reverse rule, one side then the other. I've used a level stuck to timber by Velcro to get the arris bang on. Then replaced the timber when it warped. Depending on the wall span you may be able to use clamps to save fixing anything on. Whatever works .Simon nygaard shows nearly all the techniques I can think of :

 
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AdcarPlastering said:
Great thanks, those pins look ideal.

Is it essential to bevel or is the just for added strength?
Click to expand...

Yeah pritty essential as you need the bit over hand onto the other wall so you can get a coat onto it right up to the angle, if it was square timber it would be hard up to the brickwork with the render thats set coming off at a 90 to the wall ratha than a point sticking out to the wall that hasnt been done if that makes sense lol. No offence but u always ask stuff on here that seems simple but u pretend u know all sorts ...... U had a diffo name on here then changed it and found some experience from somewhere ?!?!? Lol
 
CTPlastering said:
Yeah pritty essential as you need the bit over hand onto the other wall so you can get a coat onto it right up to the angle, if it was square timber it would be hard up to the brickwork with the render thats set coming off at a 90 to the wall ratha than a point sticking out to the wall that hasnt been done if that makes sense lol. No offence but u always ask stuff on here that seems simple but u pretend u know all sorts ...... U had a diffo name on here then changed it and found some experience from somewhere ?!?!? Lol
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation.
 
CTPlastering said:
Yeah pritty essential as you need the bit over hand onto the other wall so you can get a coat onto it right up to the angle, if it was square timber it would be hard up to the brickwork with the render thats set coming off at a 90 to the wall ratha than a point sticking out to the wall that hasnt been done if that makes sense lol. No offence but u always ask stuff on here that seems simple but u pretend u know all sorts ...... U had a diffo name on here then changed it and found some experience from somewhere ?!?!? Lol
Click to expand...

He probably doesnt have any quals either CT.........................:RpS_wink:
 
Call yourself what you want mate, I'm merely a plasterer, I don't feel the need to proclaim to be experienced, specialist or anything else that would put myself in a higher bracket than any other bloke.
 
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