Gibbo
Well-Known Member
It can still crack the building paper isolates the timber
Eml?
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spunky
Private Member
its an opinion fair enough if I had seen what you said in a spec for the last 15 years I'd believe you but I haven't
carlos
Private Member
spunky
Private Member
You can't float plasterboard with pva, you have to line all the beads up with the board and it won't be straight
sorry for sounding thick mate but i dont get yer?
i thought what he was saying as that at the top ie along the ceiling line theres just a realy thin strip of 30mm length of the walls that wood?
which is why i was saying couldnt use just screw some 9.5mm board over and then just float the wall and treat the board as part of the wall and at that section just cover the board by a couple of mm or whatevers needed to bring the wall out etc/
have i got the scenerio wrong fela?
zombie
i thought what he was saying as that at the top ie along the ceiling line theres just a realy thin strip of 30mm length of the walls that wood?
which is why i was saying couldnt use just screw some 9.5mm board over and then just float the wall and treat the board as part of the wall and at that section just cover the board by a couple of mm or whatevers needed to bring the wall out etc/
have i got the scenerio wrong fela?
zombie
i know your right by the text book pal....but for just that little bit i would.
Ensuring the woods covered would be more important to me.
Its like most things if thats what youve got at hand sometimes you just crack on.
Its no worsre than if you turned up for a reskim and an unexpected area of brickwork ended needing covering a chase or summet and youve only got a bag of bonding at hand we all know you should realy use say hardwall or browning but personaly id just lash some pva on the brickwork and use bonding.
Likewise if there was a section of a wall that i was applying hardwall as it was exposed brickwork and it was butting up/bridging overlapping some board i wouldnt just mix up some bonding for a couple of hawks worth.
But i totaly agree fela and you are correct by the book.
Zombie:RpS_thumbsup:
Ensuring the woods covered would be more important to me.
Its like most things if thats what youve got at hand sometimes you just crack on.
Its no worsre than if you turned up for a reskim and an unexpected area of brickwork ended needing covering a chase or summet and youve only got a bag of bonding at hand we all know you should realy use say hardwall or browning but personaly id just lash some pva on the brickwork and use bonding.
Likewise if there was a section of a wall that i was applying hardwall as it was exposed brickwork and it was butting up/bridging overlapping some board i wouldnt just mix up some bonding for a couple of hawks worth.
But i totaly agree fela and you are correct by the book.
Zombie:RpS_thumbsup:
essexandy
The Lake Governor
I have EML'ed literally thousands of linear mtrs of roof plates and I've a: never put anything behind the EML and b: I've never seen or been told of any problem occurring from not putting paper behind the EML. I do however insist that the EML is wide enough to span onto the blockwork and is well fixed. I certainly wouldn't entertain fixing and rendering over plasterboard with anything in this context.
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spunky
Private Member
******* I was hoping you were going to say cut it flush lol
My life :RpS_crying: just checked back in never thought this thread would go viral pmsl.....
Plasterboard over???? Wtf???
I thought I was right and just wanted to check re the eml Anyways all done now.
Fooking bricky was 30mm out over 2.4 what a c**t so in order to plumb Walls and cover trunking at the top of wall the bottom of wall needed best part of 40mm of hardwall so had to hack a big ass key into blocks with hammer claw to get a decent key aghhhhhhhh
I'm now on suicide watch haha
Plasterboard over???? Wtf???
I thought I was right and just wanted to check re the eml Anyways all done now.
Fooking bricky was 30mm out over 2.4 what a c**t so in order to plumb Walls and cover trunking at the top of wall the bottom of wall needed best part of 40mm of hardwall so had to hack a big ass key into blocks with hammer claw to get a decent key aghhhhhhhh
I'm now on suicide watch haha
johniosaif
Private Member
I am a bit lost on why you needed extra key..
Just use eml and make sure it goes over both wood and blockwork, then float it.
When you have the room floated put a length of scrim along the wall at the wall plate level and then your usual scrim at the ceiling and wall angle as normal. This definitely won't crack.
I have never seen a crack at wall plate level before anyway.
When you have the room floated put a length of scrim along the wall at the wall plate level and then your usual scrim at the ceiling and wall angle as normal. This definitely won't crack.
I have never seen a crack at wall plate level before anyway.
Just coz 40mm on a plain faced block probably isn't that great! I guess also coz im sure bgyp say no more than 25mm without mechanical key..... I know that's unrealistic in the real world so thought better safe than sorry!!!
Can't see how this bricklayer can't do better than nearly 15 mm/meter I think I could do better than that without a level grrrrrrrr
Can't see how this bricklayer can't do better than nearly 15 mm/meter I think I could do better than that without a level grrrrrrrr
johniosaif
Private Member
bad brickwork alright,
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