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Chris W

Chris W

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just thought id mention this - you know how dricoat is supposed to be salt neutralising / repellant?

well i dricoated a kitchen bout 2 - 2 1/2 weeks ago, been back fittin stuff today, not been painted, salts coming through where the old sink unit was (luckily the new ones back in same place)...

so much for additives....

AND theres just a little nibby corner bit bout 100mil both angles between the back door and the kitchen door... aint dried yet...
on about 15 mil all over...

might need an injection in a couple of places but imo the stuff aint all its cracked up to be with regards to water resistant / salt resistant properties...

never had that with old s+c+waterproofer/neutraliser (triton stuff)
 
Sounds like Walls needed a good drying out .possibly dehumidify would of done the trick.why not use hardwall.
 
when you say salt is it the fluffy stuff this quite normal when drying out also it best to spray the antisulfate onto walls before rendering.
 
i would have thought hardwall was the worst thing i could have used given the circumstances...
it was an old building, kitchen refurb..
99% of the plaster came off when hacking out for the electrics so the lot went back in dricoat as it had some damp probs in the past that had been renderered up with waterproof render....

looks now like it never got treated, just rendered...
 
henry said:
when you say salt is it the fluffy stuff this quite normal when drying out also it best to spray the antisulfate onto walls before rendering.
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yeh just 'hygroscopic' salts mate...
thing is, i used to use triton waterproofer... comes with salt neutraliser, smells like lemons you know the stuff... be the same for sovereign, even ever build got the same smell...
well that stuff is basically 'acetic acid', mixed with a little 'surfactant', otherwise known as washing up liquid (or degreaser, penetrating fluid)...
so, vinegar, water and washing up liquid...

point is, 'dricoat' is supposed to be 'for the replastering of walls after a damp proof treatment, contains salt neutralising additives to stop the penetration of hygroscopic salts that ruin decor' or words to that effect...

now ive never had it with s+c+ triton (or come to that even everbuild) waterproofer...

so it looks to me like dricoat aint all its cracked up to be, either that or theres a massive problem with these walls...
its only a bit of salt, just a stain at first, then a bit of fluff but i wasnt expecting to see ANY and ive used this stuff before on jobs where i just wanted to be sure... but put it to the test... and it fails, miserably imo....
 
Bagrat said:
Hardwall why not won't crack or fall of. But having not seen the task what do I know eh:
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mate, you dont use gypsum based backing coats on damp walls... it WILL turn to mush....
cement based backing plasters arent affected in the same way by moisture, they will retain there structural integrity...
the point is, if youve got a damp wall, you got 2 choices...
s+c+waterproofer+salt neutraliser...
OR
dricoat, limelite - in other words, a 'prebagged, cement based undercoat plaster with salt neutralising andf water resisting additives ideal for use after the installation of a chemical damp proof course'...

now it didnt have a dpc injection on my job, but id assumed it had due to the 1m high render and damp problems elsewhere....

so i thought id cure it by using 'thistle dricoat' - read the lit...

as i said, when put to the test (as in i didnt install any further chemical dpc or otherwise) it didnt exactly perform...

so what i am saying is, if you aint sure, do it in s+c+waterproofer+salt neutraliser
 
Point taken chris but I would dry wall out before replastering. Hence the hardwall shout I've often used this method and been successful but maybe it's not cost effective.with drying process and time I stand corrected.
 
being as masonary, screed, render, concrete, all dry out at the rate of 1mm per day in dry conditions, it can take a while...
100 days per single skin of brick....
the crack with additives is, it allows the wall to dry out (breathe) whilst still holding back the desructive element of the drying process (hygroscopic (read dissolved within the substrate) salts) bleedign through and f'cking up the decor and the appearance of plaster finishes..
what i'll have to do is soak it again with a solution of vinegar, water and washing up liquid...
or better still a solution of 'salt neutraliser'...
but given than 'salt neutraliser' on its own, in a 5 litre tun can cost anything up to 40 quid, and a jar of sarsons vinegar is around 40 pence.... ill go with the vinegar... :rolleyes)

all im saying is, dont be thinking dricoat is a catch all, fix all solution, like i did, cos it aint...
youd be better off, if you dont wanna start reinjecting, going with the good old fashioned stuff...
 
chris. you should make your own "eco" building chemicals. might give the vinegar a bash. seems to disolve the salt on me chips
 
potatoe said:
chris. you should make your own "eco" building chemicals. might give the vinegar a bash. seems to disolve the salt on me chips
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found the 'recipe' on the net couple of years ago maybe after searching 'salt neutraliser', thats all the stuff is man, acetic acid, surfactant, and water...

works too...

tell you where else it works...

ever walked into a house that stinks off p'ss? cat p'ss? human p'ss? same sh't, it gets in the boards etc? - vinegar mate...
ever done a bog replaster and the plasters all blown round the back of the bog? p'ss mate... again - vinegar... cures the smell AND any detrimental effects on the plaster...
 
henry said:
it's still better then sand and cement
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thats what im sayin henry, it ISNT....
its all good for lightness, ruling etc...
but you put it in a position, compare it to 3:1 s+c+decent dpc product company spec waterproofer, and it doesnt do the job...

i KNOW if i'd done the same job with the old school spec, i wouldnt have seen the salts...
i really didnt expect to see em this time with the dricoat, but i did...
i would put it under the pepsi challenge any day, and ill eat my hat if the old school recipe doesnt perform better for water resistance and salt repellance than dricoat...
shrinkage, curing and suction aside.... dri coats good for that... but bollox to the 'properties'...
 
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