Dormer cheeks

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Scottley

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Hi all, new to the forum and looking for some help with what prepartation will be required for rendering my dormer cheeks.

Im looking to use either K-Rend or Weber and i have never used either product before, nor have i rendered anything before now i think about it. I can plaster and i have the ability to create a flat surface but its the prep i am unsure about.

The dormer cheeks will be constructed of timber frame with an 18mm wbp ply cheek. Im thinking it will need an sbr prime and possibly a reinforcing mesh?

Any help would be much appreciated

Thanks

Scott
 
May be better with a thin coat acrylic on top a cement board would be less work for a beginner
 
Scottley said:
Hi all, new to the forum and looking for some help with what prepartation will be required for rendering my dormer cheeks.

Im looking to use either K-Rend or Weber and i have never used either product before, nor have i rendered anything before now i think about it. I can plaster and i have the ability to create a flat surface but its the prep i am unsure about.

The dormer cheeks will be constructed of timber frame with an 18mm wbp ply cheek. Im thinking it will need an sbr prime and possibly a reinforcing mesh?

Any help would be much appreciated

Thanks

Scott
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Also might be worth noting dormer cheeks are fire rated but you should be able to sort that inside.
 
pwi said:
May be better with a thin coat acrylic on top a cement board would be less work for a beginner
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Thanks for the replies guys.

I did look at hardi backer boards for the cheeks as i use these a lot for wall and floor tiling. However im told they are not rated for external use. When you say 'thin coat acrylic' do you mean just a weak ratio acrylic primer?

Interesting about the fire rating, will speak to the buildin inspector about that and see what i need to do, im guessing double skin plasterboard on the inside will do it.

Thanks again guys
 
you could wrap it with building paper then riblath then a hpx basecoat or simlar then top off with k-rend colour but there are afew different options
 
Regs for timber frame construction change like the wind some say battens on top of ply ,some say the other way around ,id just do what madmonk said its been done that way for donkeys years.
 

Also might be worth noting dormer cheeks are fire rated but you should be able to sort that inside.
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Building inspector said firecheck isnt required as detached property so that makes things a bit easier. ;D
 
mate, do them in a thin coat acrylic colour matched to the main monocouche walls as it's more weather resistant and is made for going over timber/cement board.
 
goody said:
mate, do them in a thin coat acrylic colour matched to the main monocouche walls as it's more weather resistant and is made for going over timber/cement board.
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Would that be more weeather resistant than the silicone based Krend?
 
goody said:
mate, do them in a thin coat acrylic colour matched to the main monocouche walls as it's more weather resistant and is made for going over timber/cement board.
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goody would you stick the base coat straight onto the wood then meshed is that the way for timber or someothr way
 
best to use knauf aquapanel or similar but good quality external grade timber would do. The thin coat renders are made for this but using a heavy bodied non-flexible render like weber/k-rend is a no no in this situation. Don't read too much into the silicone of krend.......the thin coat renders which are more paint based provide the best solutions today(you can also get them with nano technology so self cleaning or indeed a self cleaning paint which will go over heavy renders no problem and give excellent weathering protection but in this situation given the substrate id stick with a good quality silicone thin coat render such as parex, weber, sas, jub, etc.
 
richardbrown said:
are you sure you can go direct onto ply goody ???
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thats what i mean im confused thought there had to be some sort of mechanical key or is it just straight on with a base coat then meshed then the acrylic
 
Goody means dormers boarded in aquapanel exterior or e board, adhesive coat and mesh then topcoat with bucket acrylic of your choice, it's maintenance free and the jobs a gooddun! :)
 
So is the knauf aqua panel rated for exterior use then? I know hardie backer isnt.

I was going to use the silicone based krend for the waterproofing qualities and nothing more as its a ply substrate, however the aqupanel isnt impevious to water either. It can sustain getting wet and wont break down.
 
K-rend on to timber or even the renda lath for me is a big no no as there will be some digree of movment which will mean cracks stick with the acrylic . Plus I think its nicer
 
church said:
Regs for timber frame construction change like the wind some say battens on top of ply ,some say the other way around ,id just do what madmonk said its been done that way for donkeys years.
Click to expand...
Might be there, what do you think?
 
scottley, the modern THIN renders are more like tile adhesives which will go over wood just like tile adhesive and are flexible too. Krend silicone is a completely different product and is only designed to go over basecoats or blockwork and is not flexible at all. When people question the thin renders going over wooden floors you have to think about tiling bathroom floors at first floor level, ie onto wooden floors which is usually ply. You wont 'hack off' a thin coat render off wood as you do a thick coat, it would be a bit like removing woodchip with a screwdriver! Knauf aquapanel is exterior rated and bombproof but is expensive, exterior grade timber for such a small area is fine with fibreglass mesh embedded in it.
 
McPlaster said:
church said:
Regs for timber frame construction change like the wind some say battens on top of ply ,some say the other way around ,id just do what madmonk said its been done that way for donkeys years.
Click to expand...
Might be there, what do you think?
Click to expand...

Yeah maybe, but its a good thread going well keep it up .
 
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