Door Frame Door Opening

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stuartpetty

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Hello

Door Frame Door Opening

I have a door opening in my new extension. As you can see from the image the wall is single skin, thermolights with a concrete lintel over the top.

My basic question is this, what is the normal practice when it comes to door frames do I plasterboard around the inner opening then attach the inner door frame or
can I just attach the timer directly to the block work and over lap the plasterboard running along the main walls

Many Thanks
 
Fix your casing to the block work. most likely packed where necessary as ive never seen an opening and casing be a Perfect fit. Make sure its equal both sides and plasterboard flush up to it allowing a couple of mm for skim
 
Thanks for the advice. Looking at the block work it's not perfectly straight, especially where the thermolights have been cut with a handsaw.

Im i best to get a bag of the plastic packers from ebay like this ?

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As said door linings to the block work! Bit odd they put the cut edges of the blocks facing out rather then in? Use whatever packers you want if you have a chopsaw will do as well cutting them yourself.
 
My first question would be is are we looking at finish floor level as is. If not you would need to lift your door lining up the relevant amount, there should be a datum line around 1metre up from FFL. Or your door will be buried in the screed :RpS_laugh:

Next you should try a level and straight edge on the block work face to get an idea of how much out of plumb it is. If it is perfect you will start your lining at the bottom with an equal amount protruding each side but if it is leaning you will try and nudge the lining into the leaning side as much as possible to give enough room to stick a board on whilst still staying plumb. If it was out a lot it might even be a case of getting an extra wide lining. On a decent wall a lining needs to protrude each side by about 25mm to allow for adhesive plasterboard and skim. On wet plastered walls about 1/2 that.
For fitting the lining into the hole check for plumb on the end of the blockwork and try to even it up within the hole. Use a bit of batten etc to cut packers to size, cut down the grain rather than across or they will just break up. Put a strap across the bottom of the lining 3mm wider than the door to be used and when assembling look down the lining jambs to make sure the hollow side is facing in. Never glue the legs to the head, if it's just nailed or screwed there is still scope for some adjustment once fitted using a saw in the corner and wedges.
Use a straight edge and level to fit your lining and aim to pack your lining straight but slightly hollow is fine as it can be packed to the door with wedges later. What you don't want is a lining that is cupped inwards because you will have to plane a hollow in the edge of the door to match and it will never work well, the hinges will bind and it will be generally ****.
Hope this garbled post makes sense.
 
Yes mate makes perfect sense. As for the final floor finish there is still a bit to go on top of the slab that is shown in the picture. XPS routed insulation 2.5mm Then Screed board 2.0mm and then the engineered timber 1.3mm

I was going to ask as a final question if the lining need to be wider than the block work to allow for the dab and the walls plasterboard, thanks for clearing that up too

Stuart
 
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