Difference in mesh

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Bones10

Bones10

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Any of you lads know the diff between the parex mesh? I been using tv10 I think it's called, it's the bigger mesh out of the 2, that's the stuff they always give me, just wondered What the smaller mesh is used for or a dif style of render etc?
 
we have 3 different types of mesh sent out to us. the basic one for everything above first floor level. a fine one for reveals, and a very heavy duty one for the ground floor to stop the locals from kicking the system in.
 
Bones10 said:
Any of you lads know the diff between the parex mesh? I been using tv10 I think it's called, it's the bigger mesh out of the 2, that's the stuff they always give me, just wondered What the smaller mesh is used for or a dif style of render etc?
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I asked the same question down at Penlaws. They said "it's just personal choice, and most of our customers prefer the small mesh".
I personally prefer the large mesh, feels as tough as old boots.
 
essexandy said:
I asked the same question down at Penlaws. They said "it's just personal choice, and most of our customers prefer the small mesh".
I personally prefer the large mesh, feels as tough as old boots.
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Yea that's what they told me, is does feel solid so I quite like it, just curious about the smaller stuff
 
Like Gibbo says;

the big squares are for mono and mortars it allows gear that need suction for bond the bind together through it. the smaller stuff is for thinner coat renders and hi polymer adhesives like maite etc for EWI. then you can get a panzer mesh that is more dense for very high impact areas like ground floor walls on a public building like a school.
 
goody said:
Weber mesh is one size fits all and it's like 355
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Yeah I always wondered if they didn't want extra production costs but i hate using pral with their mesh.

sas Prorend do a good selection of mesh and the beads are prob the best out there
 
plasterjfe said:
Yeah I always wondered if they didn't want extra production costs but i hate using pral with their mesh.

sas Prorend do a good selection of mesh and the beads are prob the best out there
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Yes there beads are very taught but not brittle to cut. Costs a bit but I sell the frost protection compared to the cheapo beads.

There grade 5 mesh is about 5mm but just right for mono and their float.

There is a 275g mesh British made on Ebay, that feels nice to the touch. It is about £75 though and only a 25m roll so it is outpriced it self. I use a 8mm mesh quality made not chinky stuff for sand and cement.
 
Been new to it, I have done only one house in the mesh for external rendering, I used it internally too where there are crazed cracks running through the plaster, better than a hack off .
 
essexandy said:
But then you'd have wanted the mesh in the mono wouldn't you?
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because i wasnt using rendaid i put the mesh in the scratch and topped of with mono as weber spec mesh in the rendaid i assumed it would be suitable to mesh the scratch.
 
it seems to me arti, that you are getting two different systems mixed up. a sand and cement base coat and a mono finish coat
 
Its how i did a timber framed extension with eml. pricked it and scratched it with S&C and topped with mono.....................at the time i knew very little about mono (A bit like now really) and the builder who got all the gear told me how he wanted it done...................i would probably have used a render board if i did another one. If your using EML how would you have do it Malc?..................OCR?
 
i must have missed the bit about it being a timber frame building. i would have used render board.
in the ewi world we are always told the eml, riblath are no good as they will expand in heat from sunlight and crack the render, that is why scrim is used. that is why i wondered why you where using eml and scrim together.
 
I would defo use a render board next time but just went with how the builder wanted it done.
 
people use EML onto timber backgrounds where a mortar or mono is going to be used as the render product to give a key to hold onto, not the right product in all fairness you should avoid that method at all costs even if speced.
alot of builders still use timber .
 
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