deflection head detail

[galileo]

I wanted to ask for advice, whether I need a deflection head or if it's pointless in this build up.

1st floor, on joists with lots of noggins and ply on top, metal stud wall, ceiling is the sloped roof above. When looking at a cross section of the wall, left side will have 15mm Duraline running up to the ceiling; right side is a bathroom with some 12mm hardiebacker, adhesive, 6mm large format porcelain tiles. The tiles run up to the ceiling at the lower end of the bathroom, and then finish at 2.4m where the ceiling slopes further up. All this would be normal and manageable. The interesting detail here is that at the highest point of the ceiling, there's an opening - a rooflight. The edge of the glass is level with the edge of the wall, so that in the cross section, the right side of the wall can run straight up to the edge of the glass.

Usually if having a deflection head - the installation detail would be relatively easy. Here, however, as the hardiebacker has to run all the way up "through" the roof up to the glass, I'm not quite certain how to manage that with the deflection head. Should I just screw it and screw all the metal studs in to the top channel and try and stiffen the wall and prevent it from moving at all? Or is that bound to fail? Am I overthinking it? Any input would be very much appreciated, thank you!

 

[essexandy]

@John j

 

[John j]

@John j

Need me reeders

 

[Stewie03]

Not gunn lie I might aswell tried to have read that in spanish

 

[essexandy]

Not gunn lie I might aswell tried to have read that in spanish

Sì

 

[galileo]

maybe this might help visualise it; the new wall will be right below the doubled up joists; on left side - goes up to the ceiling; on right side, goes 'past' the ceiling and all the way to a rooflight (where the black proplex is now)

 

[malc]

Roof light in wrong position. Either move it or purchase a smaller roof light.

 

[essexandy]

maybe this might help visualise it; the new wall will be right below the doubled up joists; on left side - goes up to the ceiling; on right side, goes 'past' the ceiling and all the way to a rooflight (where the black proplex is now)

Definitely looks like an @ChrispyUK job.

 

[Brimstone]

Not my field but wood floor is bound to bounce/move, stud and cement board is hard and will move with floor, therefore needs a gap/deflection head at glass/hardibacker junction. No amount of stiffening the stud wall will alter that.

 

[ChrispyUK]

Definitely looks like an @ChrispyUK job.

Not enough foam

 

[themucky1]

I wanted to ask for advice, whether I need a deflection head or if it's pointless in this build up.

1st floor, on joists with lots of noggins and ply on top, metal stud wall, ceiling is the sloped roof above. When looking at a cross section of the wall, left side will have 15mm Duraline running up to the ceiling; right side is a bathroom with some 12mm hardiebacker, adhesive, 6mm large format porcelain tiles. The tiles run up to the ceiling at the lower end of the bathroom, and then finish at 2.4m where the ceiling slopes further up. All this would be normal and manageable. The interesting detail here is that at the highest point of the ceiling, there's an opening - a rooflight. The edge of the glass is level with the edge of the wall, so that in the cross section, the right side of the wall can run straight up to the edge of the glass.

Usually if having a deflection head - the installation detail would be relatively easy. Here, however, as the hardiebacker has to run all the way up "through" the roof up to the glass, I'm not quite certain how to manage that with the deflection head. Should I just screw it and screw all the metal studs in to the top channel and try and stiffen the wall and prevent it from moving at all? Or is that bound to fail? Am I overthinking it? Any input would be very much appreciated, thank you!

Deflection heads are mostly used on commercial building with huge roof areas, they allow a degree of bounce for when there’s snow on the roof, you’d use a deep or extra deep Channel for your head track leave around 50mm short from the top of your c stud to the roofline on which you’ve got your channel and 19mm core board fixed to the underside of the channel, so think about it now do you really need a deflection head detail??