Damp proof work

Status
Not open for further replies.

lilharbs

New Member
Been doing some damp proof work for a company for a while,usually using s n c.traditional method.used their modern system for the first time yesterday and today.hack off.then drill and inject from the inside.then fix a semi flexible one metre high plastic type bubble wrap along the length of the hack off.you drill through the plastic and hammer in fixings similar to aqua panel mushroom shape fixings with a rubber gromit that seals up the drill hole.then hardwall over the top then skim.anyone else used this method?its like trying to hardwall over a plastic curtain,flexing like a bugger whilst working on it.
 
If u have to use hardwall put a h/wall scratch on first, let that turn then float as normal :RpS_thumbup:

hope this post don't get deleted
 
Been doing some damp proof work for a company for a while,usually using s n c.traditional method.used their modern system for the first time yesterday and today.hack off.then drill and inject from the inside.then fix a semi flexible one metre high plastic type bubble wrap along the length of the hack off.you drill through the plastic and hammer in fixings similar to aqua panel mushroom shape fixings with a rubber gromit that seals up the drill hole.then hardwall over the top then skim.anyone else used this method?its like trying to hardwall over a plastic curtain,flexing like a bugger whilst working on it.
Hardwall ,no way mate ! is it over a newton type system ?with the netting ?
 
If you fix the membrain right there should nt be much flex.

Is there not room to dab up some 9.5mm boards????

Otherwise as above, let the scratch coat go off before topping.
 
I use this system all the time and can give a guarentee for it with the work but must stress that i hate it, especialy when someone else has put the plastic wykamol tanking system on! It does work when done right but in the past ive seen people overlaping the wrong way round, sliceing the internal angles with a stanley nife and even joiners pirceing the tanking with nails hameering there skirting on lol I always drill and chemical inject before putting it on as i can then charge a bit more for the job. Scratch with bonding and top after lunch or driline depending on the existing thickness....
 
The plastic is semi rigid.for instance I did a square angle bay window this week.starting in an internal then around an external,then into the internal and along under the window.then internal back out of the bay and around an external then running into the finishing internal angle of the room.its like rigid bubble wrap really.fixed after the injection as mentioned.hardwalled and topped same day to finish the job.had to put the heating on in the house tough as there is no suction to aid drying times.was told to fix maximum distances of 250mm vertical and horizontal along its length,but went down to under 200 and still flexed.once the hardwall had set it was fine to top off.sand a cement any day!
 
sounds like that newtonite lath crap that we used in the 70s

I used to do alot of damp proofing in the early 80s and ripped loads of that stuff of the walls! Was nice to take off.Better than hacking off s&c all day. They used to nail it to the wall but the moisture would go along the nail and there was your damp problem back again. Shite
 
the last time i fixed newtonite lath in the sixties. i remember we had to leave a gap at the top of wall and at the base so as air could travel behind the lath to keep the wall dry. i thought at the time this would be a long shot!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top