Hello chaps,I have around 100m2 of rendering to do,background is painted but solid,customer wants 2 prices,one for traditional sand cement render,and another for monocouche,OCR,etc,my way of thinking,was to scrape back any loose or flaky paint,sbr,rend aid ,mesh,and then top with OCR or monocouche,what is the difference between OCR and mono,is OCR weatherproof,and self coloured etc,am going to have an experienced guy to help with top coat,OCR do you rub up same day,p.s thickness is going to be 15mm,can you do that in one pass,when sticking beads up around windows 16 in bloody total,is it best to stick them up with OCR ,then rend aid then mesh,or rend aid then mesh first then stick your bead on top,so I am weighing up options,traditional sand ,cement,needs painting,to match rest of house,may be liable to hairline cracks a few years down the line,or OCR,monocouche,more expensive material wise,but low maintainence,by the way what is the best mesh to use,sorry for the abundance of questions,many thanks lads
Cost effective solution
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Albertnobacon
Active Member
OCR is just traditional sand and cement in a bag but can be applied in on coat, it does need to be finished same day and has to be painted, the way you say you are prepping the back ground is pretty much how I would do it. Cost wise traditional s/c is cheaper but you can counter that by saving on time, certainly if using a through coloured render(monocouche).
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
Diceman, you are up against what I get all the time. Customers going from one extreme to the other. A price for traditional sand & cement a price for coloured render. Not a big difference in labour but a big difference in materials cost. So it boils down to price. The sand and cement usually wins.
As for prep going over paint is always risky and always will be. There are options by several manufacturers and you may be best ringing your chosen manufacturers tech rep for their advice. With regards the rend aid I cannot see the point of sbr first as rend aid is mostly sober with aggregates. OCR at this time of year is not going to set in the day unless you use an accelerator. Depending on day and night time temperature I have had recent success in afternoon spray, spat flat as and rub up next morning. Same with mono with pral m. The better German stuff though may be morning application and next day scrape sometime. Best asking on here a day before for advice on timing. Keith will be able to advise on Weber mono timing.
Don't get to excited though. It is a trick customers play. Get a price for rending in January when work is tight and competition is fierce then give the go ahead in April, May and get high season work done at low season prices. I give two prices sometimes, a winter discount price and post March price. Stuff em.
As for prep going over paint is always risky and always will be. There are options by several manufacturers and you may be best ringing your chosen manufacturers tech rep for their advice. With regards the rend aid I cannot see the point of sbr first as rend aid is mostly sober with aggregates. OCR at this time of year is not going to set in the day unless you use an accelerator. Depending on day and night time temperature I have had recent success in afternoon spray, spat flat as and rub up next morning. Same with mono with pral m. The better German stuff though may be morning application and next day scrape sometime. Best asking on here a day before for advice on timing. Keith will be able to advise on Weber mono timing.
Don't get to excited though. It is a trick customers play. Get a price for rending in January when work is tight and competition is fierce then give the go ahead in April, May and get high season work done at low season prices. I give two prices sometimes, a winter discount price and post March price. Stuff em.
Thanks for your helpful posts,lads,I have done a bit of reasearch,seems like Monorex gf maybe the product to use,as I have read in some previous posts,that you can use this as a backing coat and top coat as well,as I have said thickness will be 15mm,do you have to let backing coat go off before applying top coat,or can you do it all in one day,any advice is much appreciated,
Albertnobacon
Active Member
that was gonna be my next comment allready
id go down the parinter route then an acrylic finish to be honest,
if its got render on already that's going to be 20mm minimum if it stone substrate your going to get voids so in places there could be already be 30mm then your proposing 5mm parinter then another 12mm of monorex, that's nearly 50mm of render on to the original substrate, so the chance of delamination is racking up.
but were all like fish wives on here, your going to get various opinions.
if its got render on already that's going to be 20mm minimum if it stone substrate your going to get voids so in places there could be already be 30mm then your proposing 5mm parinter then another 12mm of monorex, that's nearly 50mm of render on to the original substrate, so the chance of delamination is racking up.
but were all like fish wives on here, your going to get various opinions.
the cheapest solution would be sponged up parinter. which refers to the original question and at £6 ish m2 for materials plus labour gives the cheapest alternative. customer wants smooth finish. can parinter be rubbed smooth. if not can you use maite over parinter to float smoove
johniosaif
Private Member
I would be nervous about sand and cement sitting on rend aid and mesh over paint, couldn't guarantee it,would tell customer and on their head be it in writing..
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
If it is late enough in the day and you can cover it up to stop the air getting to it. Low suction background helps.
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