Cheaper alternative to lime render?

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beyondkarma

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Hi

Just wondering if there are any cheaper alternatives to lime render for an old stone and rubble house - i.e looking for flexibility and breath-ability? Been told lime is about 3 times cost of cemtious render, so just out the question any help and advice appreciate

Many Thanks

Tom
 
The answer is no. You need the flexibility.Any other finish is chemical try heritage Cob and lime they are good to talk to
 
If you go the sand and cement route it will look ok and it will be cheaper but problems are very possible, shop around for the lime in bulk.
 
sorry there are no cheap alternatives to lime render, its the perfect material for an old stone rubble house, lime is more expensive than cement based products (probably not as bad as you might think) and its benefits far out weigh the risk off using the wrong material for the job, you wont be disappointed using it, its a wonderful thing to work with in the right hands, hope this helps.
 
It does cost more as there are more coats so more labour costs. The materials bill be way up but the customer will have no say in that if lime is the answer.

Shop around for lime prices like you would anyway. Allow for the gap in-between coats. Do your research and you will be ok. I am going to be doing more of this work. Nicer than sand & cement.
 
A scaffold that spanned 8m by 5-6m with fancy heaters and fully enclosed was 4500 grand before any mention of labour and mats were involved
 
If I really had too next day ( ive done this loads of times without any agg) but 2/3 days your be ok,NHL sets and not really relying on the air for it to set
 
Internal I use sharp in both,I might throw some fine sharp in,no additives,horse hair well goats hair nowadays I think it is,
 
Na had agg wiv them before when I was devil floating,also the client thinks he's getting a traditional. Job done,kerching :RpS_thumbsup:
 
Rigsby said:
It does cost more as there are more coats so more labour costs. The materials bill be way up but the customer will have no say in that if lime is the answer.

Shop around for lime prices like you would anyway. Allow for the gap in-between coats. Do your research and you will be ok. I am going to be doing more of this work. Nicer than sand & cement.
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St Astier do spray able one coat lime renders, would this be a competitive option?
 
thanks all - found this on a heritage site whats everybody thoughts doing it like this:

If you do take the render off, top option is to just properly repoint what's underneath. If that's not presentable, needs re-covering-up, then yes a breatheable render, and all-lime is good for that, but an unfmiliar challenge to most builders.

As far as I know, there's another way to breatheability, which is common in the everyday building industry. Anyone agree/disagree? It's roughcast render. First two coats can be ordinary sand/cement render (with lowest possible cement content, but still impervious). The final roughcast coat is the key to making this cement-based, therefore impervious, system breatheable. Roughcast is small round aggregate e.g pea gravel mixed up in a slurry and flung at the wall. When it sets, the inevitable hairline shrinkage cracks begin, and the point is that the space between every 'pea'
of gravel is a stress-riser at approx. 10-12mm c/cs in all directions. So the shrinkage happens evenly all over at close centres; close enough that every bit of water that enters by capillary attraction is close to an escape route (a crack) and can evaporate out when the sun shines on the wall.
Whereas smooth render cracks in much larger slabs. Then the water that's entered by capllilary attraction and spread out laterally by soaking through the permeable masonry behind the slabs of impervious render, is too far from any exit to evaporate out when the sun shines on the wall. Smooth render therefore becomes a one-way pump for water.

The important thing is for all coats to go on green-on-green - i.e. each coat goes on before the last has matured. That is, set but not looking dry.
That way, all bonds together chemically and the stress-risers properly affect the whole depth of the render. The final slurry coat is easily done with bag-lime rather than cement, no problem. It's traditionally applied by flinging with a small coal-shovel from a bucket, but it's easier to use a Tyrollean spatter-gun. It can be painted (with permeable masonry paint) or it can be made durably self-finished by mixing e.g. fine Bath stone dust into the slurry. An experienced plasterer should know about all this, mix recipes etc. Not sure myself - does anyone know? Total thickness of the 3 coats about 25mm
 
Thats a load off cods wollop, its not flexible which is what you need, it doesnt matter how you apply cement based renders they do not breath full stop which is something else you need, rough cast started with lime, it gives a greater surface area to evaporate moisture, to think that useing a cement based render would do the same is just stupid, cement does not work like lime at all, did you read that on the heritage site? because its rubbish, sorry if this sounds rude but it just gets me pissed off when people think its ok to use S&C on your type of biulding, its not a substitute now or ever will be, the answer to your initial question is lime, it will do what is required of it.
 
yeoplast said:
Thats a load off cods wollop, its not flexible which is what you need, it doesnt matter how you apply cement based renders they do not breath full stop which is something else you need, rough cast started with lime, it gives a greater surface area to evaporate moisture, to think that useing a cement based render would do the same is just stupid, cement does not work like lime at all, did you read that on the heritage site? because its rubbish, sorry if this sounds rude but it just gets me pissed off when people think its ok to use S&C on your type of biulding, its not a substitute now or ever will be, the answer to your initial question is lime, it will do what is required of it.
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Sorry this is ment for beyondkarma
 
I'm no expert in lime plastering but I'm fairly sure if your plastering a stone wall with no cavity you have 2 choices and that is either to use hydraulic lime or non hydraulic lime, thats about the size of your choices. I'm waiting to be corrected by someone who knows more than myself.
 
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