Chasing

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Roofer2plasterer

Roofer2plasterer

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Got a extension to float and set and went today to look at it before i do it at weekend. The spark has sunk backboxes with about 10mm pretruding from blockwork....good, but the clown hasnt chased in the trunking just nailied it to the wall :mad: so it's pretruding the same amount as the back box i was gonna get my depth from.

Are they fecking stupid. I phoned him today to get it chased and he's agrred but had to get the comment most plasterers don't mind......C**T!

What standard would u expect of electrics before floating......I'll print em off and show the TW*T on Saturday ;)
 
hello mate,

This is the norm for me so i usually render out to the capping then skim over. Not ideal I agree but when your working to a tight door frame as well there isnt much other option !.

Rich
 
Normally would just go over it, you said 10mm so should be fine as float and set is usually about 18mm so you got a good 5mm over but i do agree they should chase um out but sparkys aint got a bloody clue.
 
It was only yesterday i was having a row with a sparky,those capping lengths only come in one size (about 2") and he was putting about 7 cables on the wall then trying to get the capping over, as you can imagine it was twisted as f**k and sticking out all over the place.

Why dont they make them wider and why dont they have some kind of mechanical key etched on the face instead of just being smooth plastic......wankers!
 
thats standard mate, we come across a sparky who chasses his cables flush with the blocks which is spot on but he also chasses the boxes flush which makes it a pain to clean them out nice and chrisp
 
richardbrown said:
It was only yesterday i was having a row with a sparky,those capping lengths only come in one size (about 2") and he was putting about 7 cables on the wall then trying to get the capping over, as you can imagine it was twisted as (french word) and sticking out all over the place.

Why dont they make them wider and why dont they have some kind of mechanical key etched on the face instead of just being smooth plastic......(german person)s!
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I have been saying that for years they need to put a key on them, and why is it if there is a snot on the wall they just put there trunking straight over it? well its not all of um but some just dont have a clue what we got a get over
 
Roofer most of the jobs I have worked on over the years have used capping rather than conduit, the cappings are usually between 8mm to 10mm and a decent sparks will fix his boxes at the same depth. Have followed plenty of k-rap sparks that leave their boxes out to far though or don't tuck their wires in, but then I'm ****ing fussy spread according to them when I moan. I work on the principal of if either a box is out to far or the wires aren't tucked in then the box doesn't get cleaned out, they seem to learn quite quickly ::)
Those cappings do come in a range of sizes as any decent sparks will know and carry them, and even if the largest size won't accommodate all the cables them they should just two or more cappings down parallel and some do.
 
capping does come in wider widths.. you can get 4" if need be, but a decent spark will just double up 2 widths anyway... im pretty sure 2" will only really hold 3 bits of 2.5 anyway....
the cappings there so you can pull the cables through if it gets damaged.. bit like a conduit but cheaper.. so shoving 7 twisted lengths in a bit of 2" wide is defeating the object... he'd have been just as well clipping em to the bloody wall..
 
I dont think the capping is there as a means for the sparks to replace damaged cables or the like, every job i have been on there is capping then the odd break in it here and there which will be closed in by render so there is no chance of him pulling them through ... isnt ti just a bit of protection for the cables against trowels etc ??.

Another thing that gives me the Shits is these b*****d catnic smooth steel lintels, why cant they make them with some kind of key pressed into the face or whatever ...... f**k**g T***s.

Rich
 
They are a problem Rich when ime building an extension doing the brickwork i aways splatter a bit of muck on the catnic just to give it it a key for the render later always worth asking the bricklayer to get something on it while he is their.
Lucius
 
they are a pain in the arris, some lintels come with one side pre drilled but the other side smooth ... wtf is that about !!.

Rich
 
on my own work i dont use catnic i use IG or similar so you render onto block but even though the soffit is keyed you still need to prep it with something unless you use bonding.
Lucius
 
i usualy board my reveals even on float and set, don't trust steel lintels or plastic cavity closers much. if the customer has an issue with this method i use bonding rather than s + c
 
I board them as well pug but on a smooth steel lintel you can put off the head when stuck up with d/d i use gripfill now
 
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