Ceiling sheeted in expamet then bond and set, is this advisable??

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New labourer+new bonding recipe+I've never done overhead with with metal lath before, also need just brought up a better mix, going slightly better but two buckets of bonding, bag and a half say and I've only covered 2 metres, laboriously, and I'm not pressing it too far in before you say.. Not convinced it's a good option altogether, maybe just pb and skim it?!
Wanted to rule out off dead flat as I'm running a cornice in situ. Thought this method would get me a flatter ceiling than board and skim
 
It's a very old house, joists all over the place, I framed it round the edges with 2" x2", then notched the 2x2 counter battens over the sagging beams to get a level playing field, should have used breather paper aye, didn't think of that..
I got a 'scratch' cost on it so I can get a floating cost on it on the morning but tbh might just sheet over it as it's pretty flat and level as it is and why mix up all that bonding when I can just sheet it?
New labourer isn't on top of the mixing yet so too much hassle..
Board and skim it is I think.
 
Skyshed said:
It's a very old house, joists all over the place, I framed it round the edges with 2" x2", then notched the 2x2 counter battens over the sagging beams to get a level playing field, should have used breather paper aye, didn't think of that..
I got a 'scratch' cost on it so I can get a floating cost on it on the morning but tbh might just sheet over it as it's pretty flat and level as it is and why mix up all that bonding when I can just sheet it?
New labourer isn't on top of the mixing yet so too much hassle..
Board and skim it is I think.
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We all learn in this game every day
 
Sorry am I being naive when I say why when going to the hassle of putting battens in did you not notch the batten/joist and then just board and skim this? Does the cornice need something stronger to go on?
 
sounds like a nightmare... get some photos up tomorrow as it would be good to see what you were/are up against
 
Tbh fair you have picked the hardest way to do this.
Movement will probably make it crack also.
Plasterboard and skim would of been the best way here
 
Put couple of handfuls of lime in your bonding coat (just the same as BGs old Metal Lath coat if your old enough?) But remember to put some lime in your finish because if you don't it may debond
 
why of why of why ???

Why do people want to make simple jobs hard for them selves...at what point was this ever going to be a good idea?
all you need to do is plasterboard as normal with the odd joist packet out where required!!!

if at that stage its not bang on all you need to do is go around your ceiling lines with a straight edge on your 1st coat of skim!!!
 
Before you started a slurry of cement painted over the eml would have given it a bit of suction. You could have then pot a thin pricking up coat on and let it set to make the eml stiff before you went for the scratch coat. TBH with you the only time I'd have used this method is where you'd have concerns over moisture that might have damaged p/b.
 
sometimes you would get a spec of rib lath ceiling with a full inch of carlite for fire protection,this was before fire line plasterboard was available.
 
The Apprentice said:
Before you started a slurry of cement painted over the eml would have given it a bit of suction. You could have then pot a thin pricking up coat on and let it set to make the eml stiff before you went for the scratch coat. TBH with you the only time I'd have used this method is where you'd have concerns over moisture that might have damaged p/b.
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So why would mounds of gypsum on laths be any different? Moisture would still soak through this and stain the ceiling side.
 
Jgreenplastering said:
Sorry am I being naive when I say why when going to the hassle of putting battens in did you not notch the batten/joist and then just board and skim this? Does the cornice need something stronger to go on?
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Yes I notched all the new 2" x2" counter battens these will result take the weight of this simple cornice
 
zombie said:
why of why of why ???

Why do people want to make simple jobs hard for them selves...at what point was this ever going to be a good idea?
all you need to do is plasterboard as normal with the odd joist packet out where required!!!

if at that stage its not bang on all you need to do is go around your ceiling lines with a straight edge on your 1st coat of skim!!!
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With a 3" sag over a 9' span of ceiling, there no way the 'odd packer' would have given a cost ceiling!
 
The Apprentice said:
Before you started a slurry of cement painted over the eml would have given it a bit of suction. You could have then pot a thin pricking up coat on and let it set to make the eml stiff before you went for the scratch coat. TBH with you the only time I'd have used this method is where you'd have concerns over moisture that might have damaged p/b.
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Surely any moisture that would have damaged pb would damage a gypsum plaster such as the bonding coat I was using anyway? I suppose cement render is what you are thinking of?
 
That's one hell of a sag!
Those timbers should be replaced if it's that bad?
3 inches over 9 foot indicates large amounts of movement in my eyes.
 
The ceiling lath was swallowing tons of gear, a bag to a metre and a half area, on the first coat onto the lath (let's say pricking up/scratch coat) which I was then planning on doubling up (ruling/floating coat) but due to time constraints (we only had a fast left at this point) I boarded over it and skimmed, the notched counter battens paid off as we got it nice and flat.
I fancy trying the ribbed lath method again just for the craic but would consider using breather paper if I did so
 
Jgreenplastering said:
That's one hell of a sag!
Those timbers should be replaced if it's that bad?
3 inches over 9 foot indicates large amounts of movement in my eyes.
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It's a flat roof at the top of a stairwell, at some point in the last 30 years a skylight was installed, whoever did it cut through most of the joists, bridled several with a single 4x2" on joist hangers, then hung move joist hangers on the bridles and ran joists to narrow the opening.
The timber itself is pretty sound, it's this ropy arrangement of joist hangers that has sagged, where the hangers have opened out, but I don't think there will be further movement.
If it was my house I would replace them and the cost roof but this client has already had the fiberglass roof redone, whoever did that should have spotted the problems with the joists, but what's certain is this customer will definitely not want me to replace the joists as that would mean removing the flat roof.
 
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