Can you water down thistle bond it ?

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Watts

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Hey, im new to this site and seen u all talking about thistle bond it, in a few posts.

i was just wondering if u was able to water it down, to make it stretch further. or do you just roll it on as it comes.
 
I'm gonna try to water it down about 50:50 with a strong PVA mix next week. We've a few houses to reskim. I'll try the FEB bluegrit stuff too. It worked well with WBA.
 
Hey, im new to this site and seen u all talking about thistle bond it, in a few posts.

i was just wondering if u was able to water it down, to make it stretch further. or do you just roll it on as it comes.

Just roll it on neat mate. :RpS_thumbup:

Or you could add water to it to make it stretch further if you want,
You could also add 25kg of self raising flour to the bags of finish plaster to make them stretch a bit further aswell.
Also cut your scrim in half down the length this will also save you money. :RpS_biggrin:
 
Yeah it's all you need really.
And the self raising flour in the skim is an old school trick, it allows you to put a tight one coat on, then this will raise to the required thickness during the trowelling up process. :RpS_wink:
 
Just roll it on neat mate. :RpS_thumbup:

Or you could add water to it to make it stretch further if you want,
You could also add 25kg of self raising flour to the bags of finish plaster to make them stretch a bit further aswell.
Also cut your scrim in half down the length this will also save you money. :RpS_biggrin:

Are you an undercover agent working for Thistle and will Lidl value flour work?
 
5hit I've been found out....Yeah lidl, aldi any old crap will do mate :RpS_thumbup:
 
Guys come on, he's asking for proper advice, It has to be the flour with the bowler hat dudes on the front or he wont get the correct viscosity with crap flour, and it wont stick to his roller when he's flattening in
 
You do not add pva to bond it, two different sealers and 50/ 50 with water is not the done thing, plasprime goes further.
 
You do not add pva to bond it, two different sealers and 50/ 50 with water is not the done thing, plasprime goes further.

I hear you but have you seen it fail when mixed like this?

My argument is that it's the manufacturers remit to get you to use as much of their product as possible and making bonding agent thicker than necessary is a damn good way of doing it.
 
well you may as well say that about everyhing you buy, would you water a tinnie dowm me thinks not:RpS_thumbup:
 
Because it's nicer to skim onto on a painted surface, doesn't slide.

I was thinking 2 parts bond it, 1 part pva (or sbr) and 1 water. So only 25% water.

When you mix them together they blend real easy and you cant scratch it off easily once it's set. (that was with WBA, haven't tried bond it or blue grit yet)
 
well you may as well say that about everyhing you buy, would you water a tinnie dowm me thinks not:RpS_thumbup:

Haha that's different. If I could water it down and get drunk on just as much I definitely would. :RpS_biggrin:
 
Personally i wouldnt use bond-it unless specified as it's too expensive so if you want to know a cheaper alternative just let us know the scenario?
 
Yeah Bond it is over 40 quid where as blue grit is around 20 where I go. Only trying it coz I found half a tub in the shed under a load of sh1t the other day.

That microgobetis is cheaper.....bet you could dilute that too and use it inside.:RpS_lol:
 
Don't add self rising flour directly to the water. As I'm sure someone will come along shortly :rolleyes) And tell you this will make the water rise :RpS_thumbup:
 
I've 'cut' WBA with pva before no prob so far!

I guess the thing to do with any product is find out if it's water based or not, if so then it's fine to thin down with water. Bit like paint really.

If you need a key, kiln dried sand mixed in with pva is normally the best way to go, I seal first if needed then mix pva/water 50/50 no thinner or the sand just sinks to the bottom, (keep it stirred). If you are going over tiles or similar if so I'd stick with WBA or bond it.
 
I sub to a spread who mixes plasprime and sbr 2-1, def goes much further and easy to skim. Have been doing this for 2 years with no problems.
 
Yeah Bond it is over 40 quid where as blue grit is around 20 where I go. Only trying it coz I found half a tub in the shed under a load of sh1t the other day.

That microgobetis is cheaper.....bet you could dilute that too and use it inside.:RpS_lol:

Got hold of some microgobetis for a s & c render on a blockwork xtension. Worked really well on that, really well.

Remember reading on here about people raving about it for reskims. So with what was left over I used it on a reskim on some really bad walls in a terrace. The walls were a mix of original lime, gypsum patches and painted surfaces.

The parex rep told us it wasn't great on painted surfaces and that played though my head when bits of were coming away troweling up. It doesn't work well at all on painted surfaces. You can't water it down either. I tried that on a section on the bays and it went off really quick. Anyone else had similar experiences with reskims and microgobetis?
 
I've tested micro on half a dozen silk/gloss painted walls. It rubs off some and not others.

It seems to be very hit and miss. On matt emulsion or the washable matt stuff it would probably be ok. It needs a key and some suction really.
 
Hi there I'm just about to finish level 2 plastering at portsmouth college . My question is how do trade plasters get rid of old plaster .
 
I work a lot on site around Cornwall and we normally put it in the site skip, on our sites we have many skips designed for different products. Failing that you can take it to the tip with a permit and depending where you are in the country they might make you pay for it. Before you take on a project from a client make sure you have discussed waste removal and who's responsibility it is to get rid of it normally big sites will except the responsibility but smaller jobs may require you to remove it yourself, add the cost if any to your bill.
Make sure your aware of COSH and any environmental issues with the plastering product your using, you should have risk assessments drawn up for bigger sites.
Hope this helps, this is just my practices; people and sites are different.
 
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