can you dot and dab drywall adhesive straight onto tile?????

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platinum

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hi guys quick question.... wanting to plasterboard straight onto tile background..... all tiles are in good nik and solid no movement.... is this poss????? if so how??? let me know thanks ;D
 
dont see why not mate aslong as its a solid background and the adisive wont slip to the floor like a drunken prom date
 
should be ok, ive done it before...
just dab up as normal...
youll find tile adhesive and drywall adhesive are very similar, and tile adhesive will stick to the face of the tile like nothing on earth...
 
Main area of concern is the total weight of the tiles, adhesive, boards, board adhesive and the skimming. The total weight should not exceed 20kg (bet thats on the safe side). 12.5mm boards come in at 8kg per m2 so you need to think about the rest of the materials.
 
Whoops missed the treating bit off before you do anything.
 
Roofer2plasterer said:
call me old fashioned but i'd find it easier knocking the c**nts off ;D
shouldnt trhat read 'i'd find it easier getting some young lad to knock em off'..
if theyre well fixed, 20 minutes of bleeding knuckles and your gonna wish you just dabbed over it..
or worse...
well fixed on a dabbed wall... time your done youre gonna need a skip!
ive done it both ways and to be honest, if its a retile, i'd just tile straight over the top, and if its not level, a coat of bondit followed by a levelling coat of bonding followed by tiles... stuff the skimming.. :p
i aint that old but i can remember some tilers soaking tiles in a bucket of water before fixing em... try getting them buggers off in bits bigger than a 5p!!
still, chances are that these days theyll have been tiled over fresh plaster with no pva using 'fix + grout' (lol) and theyll come off with a plastic wallpaper scraper..
 
take em off mate for time it takes.ceramics and driwall ady can be bit moody,if had to do with tiles on wld score em with grinder just to give little extra key but better taking off.
 
bigsegs said:
Roofer2plasterer said:
call me old fashioned but i'd find it easier knocking the c**nts off ;D
shouldnt trhat read 'i'd find it easier getting some young lad to knock em off'..
if theyre well fixed, 20 minutes of bleeding knuckles and your gonna wish you just dabbed over it..
or worse...
well fixed on a dabbed wall... time your done youre gonna need a skip!
ive done it both ways and to be honest, if its a retile, i'd just tile straight over the top, and if its not level, a coat of bondit followed by a levelling coat of bonding followed by tiles... stuff the skimming.. :p
i aint that old but i can remember some tilers soaking tiles in a bucket of water before fixing em... try getting them buggers off in bits bigger than a 5p!!
still, chances are that these days theyll have been tiled over fresh plaster with no pva using 'fix + grout' (lol) and theyll come off with a plastic wallpaper scraper..

I was always told never tile over bonding .... not to sure of the reason but a few tilers have tole me the same ???

Rich
 
ive had that i straightened a few walls in my old mans bathroom and the tiler wouldnt touch it .........had to fookin skim the coont wish i never started ;D
 
just answered your own question rich.. suction...
one thing you dont want with tiling is shitloads of suction, think of it like skimming over bonding.. leave it a day and youve gotta seal the hell out of it..
this is someone elses information this.. gary b possibly, but they reckon bondit, wba and the like were actually developed for tilers to tile over old tiles... kills suction dead, gives back a key..
i dont have a problem tiling over old tiles, but if im over bonding it gets about 3 good coats of pva strarting with p'ss wet and ending up near enuff neat, each one drying in between..
think of tiling over fresh skim (dry) without pva... youll be able to take em off with a Mcdonalds spoon..
 
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