Bulnose corners

Status
Not open for further replies.

karrrl

New Member
got a request for rounded corners on a job im doing not quite sure how to go about it as ive never done them on stud walls?(on the corners instead of angle beads
any tips
 
you will need to plane the timber on the corner down enough to get a board on a chamfer as tou cand just plaster the wood, then when its all boarded just build it up in bonding and skim it. have you done a bullnose corner before mate?
 
i only ask as there is a few ways of doing them
. free hand
. running them
. forming with an external corner trowel etc etc....
 
no m8 always used metal angle bead
they are going to be boarded and he wants the broom handle look on the corners like are used on lath and plaster
Have run on the spot tho LOL
 
ok i will try and tell you the best way i think you will get a good job but without all the fuss of running them, but first does he want quirk's (little grooves down each side of the bullnose)?
 
why bother going to all the trouble of plastering a bull nose when you can do em in timber... run a rebate plane up a broom handle to create a 'v' that will sit over the corner of the stud, pin it in position, board up to it...

skim it...

cut a quirk out if rqd..

paint it...

or is that what you were gonna say kirk? ;D
 
wont the skim crack on the joinand i also preume you go upto the round rather than over if that makes sense

thanks fo the info so far guys
 
thats what the quirk is there for... to separate the plaster and the timber..
to be honest you dont even need a rebate plane, set a circular saw up to 10mm depth or so with a guide at 1/2 the width of the broom handle and run it through in 2 passes at 90 degrees to the first..
 
another way is to hack off the edge of the strud like kirky said and pinkgrip a length of 22mm copper onto the chamfer... less movement - acts like a large radius corner bead then...
skim tight up to it..
be alright when its got a bit of paint on it... ;D
 
nope, that will probably crack (and its cheating)

erm right i think the easiest way will be to buy a bullnose corner trowel and do it that way or you could make a tool yourself from a piece of waste pipe (the stuff they use on baths and sinks) just cut a section of pipe about 1foot long and then cut the radius of the pipe into 4 quarters and with one of then you can run it up and down the corner, some guys will form them freehand but it is very easy to get wrong this way, or alternatively you could cut the profile out of a small sheet of metal and fill your corner op with a back coat plaster and cut it to shape with your metal template, then when you skim it just do the same thing and each time you trowel it just pass over the bullnose with your template to get a good finish on it.
or if it is a job that is of top class then you would horse the template and run it on rules attached to either side of the corner. i have only briefly covered a few methods here and if you want to know more on a certian one then i will go into more detail for you mate

oh but you will have to take the sharp corner of the stud work mate and make sure that the wood is coverd with board to stop it cracking. if the stud work isnt built yet then you could get the joiner to put two studs either side of the corner and not one where you are to form your bullnose, this way you can board across on a 45 degree angle and build up on that otherwise you will have to do some cutting back mate ;)
 
cheating?
who is being cheated?
pound to a penny my bit of copper will still be there when your bit of bonding has cracked and crumbled... :p

its only cheating if youre doing an nvq trade test....

i personally wouldnt fanny around in the old textbook methods... spank a bit of copper or timber on it and be done... different if it was external render, but it aint.... ;)
 
chris your avatar is giving me a boner ;D :-*

i think you should use plaster if you are a plasterer and if you want wood then get a joiner in ;)
 
cheers for that oasis ;D
i aint no ledge tho... what i do have is lots of experience in a multitude of disciplines ranging from aircraft fitting, through welding, plumbing and carpentry and a bit of plastering..
what kirk says is technically correct, but just cos were spposed to be 'plasterers' doesnt mean we cant borrow a trick or two off the chippies...
its a bit like saying chippies shouldnt use pinkgrip, everything should be counterbored, screwed and pelletted up again... on a fine oak staircase maybe, but for just slinging mdf windowboards on - gripfill every time innit...
depends on what the customer wants... if its authentic period design and methods then its kirks way, if its just a round corner that'll resist damage a little better.... i'd go with the timber or the copper...
you should see the job im on at the minute... architraves and skirtings get stuck on with whatevers in the gun at the time and the common 'spec' for plastering is 'get it ready for papering' ;D
and as for the effing sparks.... :mad:
 
nice one chris, i can see where you are coming from mate, i wasnt trying to be funny but i do think its important for people to know how to do things properly :)
 
no worries, thats why i offered up my method... i knew you'd have it covered.. :D
i also think its important for people to know how to get the job done quick and be out the door and in the pub.. or at least have an alternative up there sleeve for when the customer chokes on his quote ;D
 
i am pushing all the time for my customers to have something different as i love this sort of stuff and up to now it is paying off and people seem to love it (but not as much as me) ;D
 
haha you can tell you are irish, you are asking me to shut up about plastering on a plastering forum?

this could be the start of a joke

paddy was on a plastering forum when micky said...... ;D
 
kirk johnstone said:
haha you can tell you are irish, you are asking me to shut up about plastering on a plastering forum?

this could be the start of a joke

paddy was on a plastering forum when micky said...... ;D

No Kirk, I wasn't telling you personally. I was making the point that if this
is a 'PLASTERERS FORUM' then why do so many people (plasterers ?) go
into excruciating detail about fairly basic stuff.


KIRKS FORUM


WHAT CAN I TELL YOU ABOUT SUCKING EGGS:
Step 1. ......


If u get my drift ;)
 
kirk johnstone said:
what else do you want to talk about mate?

Kirk its a 'plasterers forum' where plasterers give each other advice/tips and share
info etc to do the job better/quicker, not a question and answer session where
'plasterers' ask whether adding febmix to finish makes it easier to use etc. Then you
get about 20 mind numbingly boring replies stating the obvious that febmix
genuinely DOES work ;)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top