bonding or hardwall ?

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gray

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hello chaps quick question for ya
ive got small wall aprox 3x2.5 m to plaster simple enough, the only thing is its in a new conservatory and is all bare blockwork , i was just wondering whether to just use bonding (which i normally use if brickworks exposed in places) or to use hardwall ? or any other product that u may recomend. ive not used hardwall before so if any tips appreciated ;)

thanx in advance
Gray
 
ok thanks bumhair (nice name :D)
will i need to devil float? pva? the hardwall b4 skim or can i go str8 on , sorry but as i said ive not used the stuff before
thanks
 
ull hav to let the hardwall set in abit then u shud devil float it mate, to create the key for skimming,....as u wud do with bonding,no need to pva it mate aslong as u dont leave it to long...if uve skimming browning b4, its pretty much the same process,
first coat ya wall, no need to flatten, 2nd coat ya wall,....let it pull it abit then a flick of water on the wall then start trowelling...shud only need a couple of trowels...then a polish later on. u shud get it pretty much sound with ya 1st trowel, as like bonding n browning it flattens real nice

the flatter u get it on the easier it is, coz it pulls in pretty quick

hope that helps ya pal
 
ah cheers mate thats very helpful ! i wasnt to sure how long to leave it before skimming ie leave it a day .but thats a bonus that il stil be in and out in a day ;) thanks king skim your a star !
 
hardwall spreads a lot better than bonding and if you hit it just as its pulling in your skim will pull in a bit faster with it so done that bit earlier and agree with kingskim get a price out of it if you can.
 
ello fellas id already told them id do it for £100 labour + mats i just wanted the job to be honest , it was a nice little number and they want more work doing soon so just wanted my foot in the door ;)
I took ur advise with the hardwall turned out luuurrrvly jubbly! and i was even washing the dust outa my throat (well thats my excuse ) by 3 down the boozer happy days
thanks again 2 king skim and bkh much appreciated guys ;D
 
platinum said:
neither...... dot and dab and skim.... sorted plus better finish ;D
Click to expand...
what a load of k-rap plat, if your a real plasterer you'll know that dot & dab and skim is not going to give a better finish than a decent job of float & set.
 
hear hear andy, i'm hoping the new rules about getting rid of waste plasterboard will bring back float and set as the prefered method....... that'll sort the wheat from the chaff
 
too right and sparring and roughcast.......ha ha ..............err... alright just backing coats .......then :-[
 
fook it pug lets just pretend we can do it like every other coont ;D
 
seems a good place for a silly question (serious one though)

what do reckon is the best quick sorter for this situation...

landlord, bedsits, grubby, council inspection, new fire doors and liners..

old terraced houses crumby old backing, loose and on the floor in patches...
timber lintels..
patch in only, as in not knocking the lot off... rest of it is borderline...
bonding with a pva coat over the old dry bricks, maybe help the patches to bond into existing better?
or hardwall em...
timber lintels - bit of plasterboard over em or eml and bonding/hardwall... some of the old backing is pretty thick so maybe bit of plasterboard and use bonding on the rest overlapping the board to fill out??

just want to be a three hour set both coats, im only gonna give it one coat of skim on top and im not the biggest fan of 'one coat' although ill possibly give it a shot if it gets recommended...??

im pulling the money on the doors.. the plastering just wants "making good" as cheaply and as fast as possible.. got the reinspection on tuesday... i reckon the clerk is gonna wanna see some paint on em by then too, and im not back in till monday plastering monday afternoon.. got one door left monday morning..
 
just to clarify... jobs like this always used to be render and skim or hardwall/browning and skim...
not looking to do the job 'right' or 'perfectly' just quickly so it'll have the best chance of lasting till the next full refurb.. blokes got shitloads of properties and theres a good chance ill be getting a lot of this kind of work, bloke doesnt mind paying for quality when required (ive plastered his own house and he paid well and on time with no moans) but i need to come up with a good deal for the both of us... we all know what bedsit tennants can be like eh?
 
haha..... get ready for howls of "do the job properly" etc etc. screw plasterboard over lintels, dub out if necerssary and do patches with bonding then skim. thats what i'd do anyway. as long as the landlord is aware of the score why not? hope it gets you plenty more mate
 
thats just it, thing is the entire walls will be getting done one day, just not yet and the tennants have a habit of destroying the place so its quick and cheap just as long as it stays on... no render cos i dont wanna have to hack it off again this time next year!
like i said, the money is in the firedoors cos theyre easily quantifiable but the plastering has gotta be a quick bodge really... proper job and it wouldnt be a problem. the blokes happy to pay for quality but when it comes down to bodgie repairs its the minimum i can get away with for minimum cost...
i even thought about the old 50/50 bonding / finish mix and do a 'window fitters one coat' it wouldnt look out of place at all compared to previous repairs!
standard one coat has been mentioned too..
:D
 
I always found that mixing browning and finish 50/50 gave a better finish than the bonding mix.
But only when needs must.
 
Just thought I would add this in. Every one on here keeps on about Hardwall and Bonding but theres never any mention of Tough coat or of any one float and set browning. Why is that?
 
i didnt know you could still get browning? last time i used it was years ago... by that i mean about 8 years..
toughcoat gets a mention from time to time but i for one have never had the need to use it...
anyone know the difference? tough to me means 'difficult to break, but not too hard' wheras hard means 'difficult to scratch/mark but brittle'...
or have i just answered my own question...
not having used the stuff what are peoples experience of it in whatever situation and what was it designed for in particular?
If i remember rightly its more for high suction backgrounds is that about right? in which case it should be ideal over old bricks yes?
as I said before, normally in the past ive used sand and cement for full walls over old bricks and some patches and just hardwall for most patches... if its real dry i just soak it up a bit..
is there much difference?
 
i think brownings med hardwalls med-high and tough coats high suction ..........used browning today what a complete load of shite its too soft and i was using it on high suction background and just wanted to peel off .......used bonding after worked a treat ;D......ive used toughcoat aswell that was on thermalite but ive used hardwall on thermalite and couldnt notice any difference so hardwall all the way :)
 
They used to do two grades of Browning one for higher suction backgrounds called Browning HS strangely enough.
 
thanks for the advise lads. So its Hardwall all the way on med to high suction backgrounds.
 
Wait for it to set up chemically (change colour) if you skim it to quick the skim will hair line.
 
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