Bonding / Hardwall

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Hodgy518

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Which is best to use on internal brick work and what is the process of applying it to the point of skimming?
 
Ha ha this place is becoming a joke with all the p1ss take questions, Danny no one will want to sponsor this place the way its going, they'll be to embarrassed. Going down the pan rapid. :RpS_thumbdn:
 
Hicky, everyone has to start somewhere and those who do want to make sure it is right! Do u not remember starting off???
 
Hicky, everyone has to start somewhere and those who do want to make sure it is right! Do u not remember starting off???

The post wasn't completely directed at you but the forum in general, but surely you can see how much your post looks like a wind up ?

"what is the process of applying it to the point of skimming ?" this is that basic it sounds like you picked up a trowel last week and thought ill give this ago !!

I do remember starting off and i had my old man to show me, and by the time id got round to being trusted with a trowel i pretty much knew what the craic was cos id watched him do it.

have you not got anyone to show you ? surely your working with someone or at college ?
 
Hardwall, according to the manufacturer is suited to high suction backgrounds (from memory). Go the the british gypsum website, download the data sheets, they even provide a ready reconer to calculate square meterage, required water, primers etc.


what you need to know is that when using any backing plaster, the skill is understanding the relationship between it and the substrate you're applying it to. Generally, red brick is uber pourus and will absorb about 50% of its own volume in water ( unless saturated due to damp etc), as a rule, the older the brick and softer the more pours it's likely to be.. So, BG recommend their own primer ( again from memory) to control. Now, if a backing plaster dries too quickly it will like any render, crack so....ensure the substrate suction is known and controlled. Failing to do this will mean you won't be able to float it and/or it'll suck the living day lights out of your top coat.

So, as a rule a BG backing plaster such as hardwall can be finished with a finishing plaster whilst 'wet'. This is because bagged gypsum products have a simular coefficient of expansion/contraction, thus if you apply multi finish onto hardwall they will both shrink at the same rate, presuming you've got the timings right. A backing blaster is ready for a top coat when it is not wet to the touch and passes the thumb test.....

now, this can be half hour after application or 6 hours. It depends on how quickly the water within the plaster is absorbed/ transpired. In weather like we've had recently, after floating a wall it can be ready fir skim within an hour however, there then remains a threat it has set too quickly, leading to shrinkage problems down the line.

So, there are some tips there however, unless you have the skill of hand to apply it....it's all useless and I'd hire a plasterer!
 
Hardwall, according to the manufacturer is suited to high suction backgrounds (from memory). Go the the british gypsum website, download the data sheets, they even provide a ready reconer to calculate square meterage, required water, primers etc.


what you need to know is that when using any backing plaster, the skill is understanding the relationship between it and the substrate you're applying it to. Generally, red brick is uber pourus and will absorb about 50% of its own volume in water ( unless saturated due to damp etc), as a rule, the older the brick and softer the more pours it's likely to be.. So, BG recommend their own primer ( again from memory) to control. Now, if a backing plaster dries too quickly it will like any render, crack so....ensure the substrate suction is known and controlled. Failing to do this will mean you won't be able to float it and/or it'll suck the living day lights out of your top coat.

So, as a rule a BG backing plaster such as hardwall can be finished with a finishing plaster whilst 'wet'. This is because bagged gypsum products have a simular coefficient of expansion/contraction, thus if you apply multi finish onto hardwall they will both shrink at the same rate, presuming you've got the timings right. A backing blaster is ready for a top coat when it is not wet to the touch and passes the thumb test.....

now, this can be half hour after application or 6 hours. It depends on how quickly the water within the plaster is absorbed/ transpired. In weather like we've had recently, after floating a wall it can be ready fir skim within an hour however, there then remains a threat it has set too quickly, leading to shrinkage problems down the line.

So, there are some tips there however, unless you have the skill of hand to apply it....it's all useless and I'd hire a plasterer!
bloody long winded way to tell him what i told him lol
 
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