bodged tiling question...

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RMK

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hi guys...

i know this isn't directly related to plastering, but just wondered if you could help...

a mate of mine has had his tiles done in his brandspanking, freshly plastered bathroom by a ''builder''.

Quite a few of the tiles sounded hollow/not keyed to the wall, so he pulled off the worse ones to reveal the tile adhesive hadn't keyed to the plaster AND the tiles had been dabbed on with 5 2"diameter dabs @ approx 4mm depth.

The tile adhesive was for use with fresh plaster and the tiles are approx 18" x 10".

Is there anything that can be done or should he just rip the lot off and re-do them (builder who did it has fallen out with him btw). He's thinking about firing something inbetween the tiles (not been grouted yet) instead of wasting time and money on taking them all off??

Any advice gratefully received.

Thanks
 
Fresh plaster should always be scratched and sealed prior to tiles. Take of and re do properly
 
The tiles are still waiting to be grouted.

Instructions on the back of the tile adhesive said to allow plaster to dry for 4 weeks, which it did. Nothing about scratching and priming it??? Does everyone scratch and prime before tiling???? Scratching, i can understand, but priming...???

More advice pleeeease guys...?

Thanks
 
I always seal fresh plaster it will just dry out on the surface and the scratch just keys it slightly .if the plaster was dry it would have been fine .but I think the big problem is they have dabbed the tiles on rather than applying the whole tile with adhesive
 
the adhesive had set hard, yes. the 5 dabs came off with the tile, and hadn't keyed to the plaster.

it's a take em off, and re-do it job. what ratio pva do you advise priming the walls with...?
 
It depends on the grade of pva follow instructions and you will be fine give the wall a few coats to kill the suction the slower it sets the stronger the bond hope this helps
 
To seal the plaster you should use sbr not pva as this just creates a skin on top off the plaster making the tiles come off again either that or just wet the walls.
 
It must that overpowering smell frol all that unnecesary!sbr you use gone to your head .lol do you sbr your re skim work to
 
pwi said:
Fresh plaster should always be scratched and sealed prior to tiles. Take of and re do properly
Click to expand...

thats not true, it needs to be sealed but doesnt need to be scratched!

you can tile straight on top of old tiles, and paint work.. you cant scratch up tiles, the whole "giving it a key" thing is a myth, aint as if its just gonna stick to the lines where you scratched it ;)
 
I can see the benefits of priming the walls, but the last thing he wants to happen is to have the tiles drop off with a fine film of unibond on the back of the adhesive. Will just tell him to put a 5:1 water to unibond in that case...?
 
I've seen some adhesives put straight onto bare unsealed plaster by tilers with a notched trowel & then bang the tiles straight on, these were new build flats.
One tiler I know always pva's @ 5-1
another tiler I know just wets bare plaster.
A bloke who does bathrooms told me he double pva's plasterboard before tiling ???
If tiling on tiles I was told by one tiler go straight over it with adhesive & new tiles.
Another tiler said he scored the tiles with angle grinder then sbr before tiling.

I myself put a very very weak pva onto bare plaster before tiling.

Everyone has their own way I suppose.
 
PVA has no place in tiling, all gypsum plaster must be primed before any cement based addys are used other wise Etteringham syndrome occurs and a reaction ocurs between the two causing crystalisation and tile failure. PVA just films on the surface and when in contact with wet addy goes back to its original state, wood glue. All addy manufaturers have there own primers some SBR or Acrylic use these and if it goes wrong its down to them use PVA and its down to you.
Ime sure ive written this before.
Lucius
 
Rip them off and start again!Lucius has it word perfect!!!!!!!!
Never ever use pva with tiling.
Anyone that uses spot fixing is just a chancer,if theres any shrinkage or movement 5 dabs ain't gonna hold much is it?
 
Always used PVA and every1 iv ever meet uses PVA.. i once did a wall and dint use the PVA in one area and the tiles dint not bond to the wall and came away easy so i re did and used PVA, 4 years on its all good. either way you MUST seal the walls and floors first.
 
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