Boarded up doorways, avoiding hairlines?

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Skimble

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Had a couple of jobs where the customer has studded out and boarded a former doorway in a masonry wall. I've scrimmed the joins and skimmed the wall and have had a couple hairline crack on the join. I've also seen the same thing on jobs I haven't done, so it's not just because I'm a bodge! (Unless they are bodges as well :RpS_bored:).

any tips as to why this happens and how to avoid?
 
Had a couple of jobs where the customer has studded out and boarded a former doorway in a masonry wall. I've scrimmed the joins and skimmed the wall and have had a couple hairline crack on the join. I've also seen the same thing on jobs I haven't done, so it's not just because I'm a bodge! (Unless they are bodges as well :RpS_bored:).

any tips as to why this happens and how to avoid?
Yes Skimble ,don't scrim the joints ,paper tape them instead ,won't crack ,simple pal



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Had a couple of jobs where the customer has studded out and boarded a former doorway in a masonry wall. I've scrimmed the joins and skimmed the wall and have had a couple hairline crack on the join. I've also seen the same thing on jobs I haven't done, so it's not just because I'm a bodge! (Unless they are bodges as well :RpS_bored:).

any tips as to why this happens and how to avoid?
Read the post boys



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Just mentioned studded doorway,so ope was studded and slabbed,board meets masonry wall ,sometime they crack with scrim,whether it be movement from expansion on two different surfaces ,paper tape won't crack like scrim does


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U can hack off say 15cm all the way around the opening board the stud overlaping onto the brick work and dab onto there , least ur covering the join with board and dabed before the end of the board so shouldnt be any movement only way the crack can appear is ripping the board
 
Just mentioned studded doorway,so ope was studded and slabbed,board meets masonry wall ,sometime they crack with scrim,whether it be movement from expansion on two different surfaces ,paper tape won't crack like scrim does


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if thats the case why isnt paper tape used as standard ? :-s
 
U can hack off say 15cm all the way around the opening board the stud overlaping onto the brick work and dab onto there , least ur covering the join with board and dabed before the end of the board so shouldnt be any movement only way the crack can appear is ripping the board

It can still crack with scrim ,board meets sand and cement ,it also happens with dabbed boards when scrimmed, paper tape is a pain in the arse but it doesn't crack


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worked on a site once where some spreads were plastering a 4 bed house, they boarded over one of the bedroom doors making it a 3 bedroom, finished the house, got their money for a 4 bed house and f---ed off before before anyone realised
 
worked on a site once where some spreads were plastering a 4 bed house, they boarded over one of the bedroom doors making it a 3 bedroom, finished the house, got their money for a 4 bed house and f---ed off before before anyone realised

I've seen plumbers doing that on a first fix on houses,a few bits of pipe sticking out of the floor and studs to make it look as if it is ready plumbing ,get paid and do a Danny


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I've also seen a situation were the founds were being poured and there wasn't enough concrete for the footing and this lab came up with an amazing idea !!!........tap the pegs down !!!!!


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If its going to crack then paper tape aint going to stop it.

Oh yes it will,!!!!'paper is the only thing that will stop it. Much stronger than scrim,you won't pull paper apart like you can with scrim,


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I've seen it lots of times ,even used paper tape over cracks that have appeared ,and either feathered then out or reskimmed ,works a treat and doesn't come back through,


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Funny, i have still encountered cracks with paper tapes used in the joins, if that was the case no one would use scrim tape.
 
Funny, i have still encountered cracks with paper tapes used in the joins, if that was the case no one would use scrim tape.

I agree kebab king ,mostly on houses that have been taped,the cause for most of this is the tapers didn't butter up the backs of the tapes properly or didn't wet the tape,thus cause the tape to lift so it comes away from the joint and a void is formed that will crack,if it's done right it won't crack ,,unless there is some serious movement .ie,subsidence ,earthquake etc


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Nobody wants to use paper tape,it's like going back twenty years when you had to stick your scrim on with stuff before skimming ,maybe if they made a self adhesive paper tape ,that would change things,but I don't know if that would work


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Funny, i have still encountered cracks with paper tapes used in the joins, if that was the case no one would use scrim tape.

Posted at 08.10 27th October..! Either your living in the future Kebab, or someone's forgotten to put the forum clocks back ..:RpS_unsure:
 
hang on a sec, i'll just work it out......8.31 minus an hour, err....7.31! ....:RpS_wink:

is it the same in ireland....?
 
hang on a sec, i'll just work it out......8.31 minus an hour, err....7.31! ....:RpS_wink:

is it the same in ireland....?

The hours could be the same but I think we are a few years behind


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Bonding with paper tape embedded & more bonding over top done it loads like that even when the frames still in & doesn't crack :RpS_thumbup:
 
The hours could be the same but I think we are a few years behind 


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your not missing nowt, SPREADS, wallow in your ignorance....


but back to the door frame, i usually tack eml around the frame overlapping onto the brickwork and then tight coat of bonding and skim....never had a callback .... not for that, anyway..:RpS_wink:


add the extra, like, i'm not a charity
 
your not missing nowt, SPREADS, wallow in your ignorance....


but back to the door frame, i usually tack eml around the frame overlapping onto the brickwork and then tight coat of bonding and skim....never had a callback .... not for that, anyway..:RpS_wink:


add the extra, like, i'm not a charity

Ignorance is bliss lol,hey if that works great ,sometimes the cracks are so fine nobody notices


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Pva the gap force bonding into it & around it, press damp paper tape into the bonding then trowel it down, then a thin layer of bonding over the top feathered out, then skim away :RpS_cool:
 
Ignorance is bliss lol,hey if that works great ,sometimes the cracks are so fine nobody notices


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that's right, they must have been about as fine as a gnats bollock otherwise i'd have been back doing the jobs again..:RpS_thumbup:
 
your not missing nowt, SPREADS, wallow in your ignorance....


but back to the door frame, i usually tack eml around the frame overlapping onto the brickwork and then tight coat of bonding and skim....never had a callback .... not for that, anyway..:RpS_wink:


add the extra, like, i'm not a charity
thats the way I do it never had any cracking
 
Wasn't expecting replies til the morn! Thanks guys.

When you guys say bonding do you mean bond out the whole wall or just over the board?
 
I think it's mostly down to how securely fixed - and dry - the timber framework is before you do anything else. :RpS_thumbup:
 
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