best way to do it....

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platinum

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old fire just removed leaving a small hole in the wall ...... theres no chimney breast as such its all flush to the wall.... customer just gonna brick up the hole.......
do you...............

a) get him to brick it up leaving approx 11mm recess from rest of wall .... then dot and dab some drywall adhesive and cut down 9.5mm board so its flush with rest of wall..... pva whole wall including new board 3:1 twice and then when tacky scrim tape joins of board to rest of wall and then skim the lot......


b) get him to brick it up leaving a 11mm recess from rest of wall ..... then pva the new brick 3:1 twice then fill recess with bonding coat leaving it for a couple of hours then pva whole wall including bonding coat patch twice 3:1 then scrim tape the joins of the bonding coat and the rest of the wall..... and skim the lot....


c) do neither of these things and do it the way your just about to tell me......... ;D


p.s how long do you need to leave newly laid bricks before pva goes on and you can drywall adhesive or bonding coat them???
 
Depends if your gonna D+D the patch of float it with hardwall/bonding.

If your gonna D+D i'd use 12.5mm board and you'll need about 10mm for the adhesive so you want bricks layed about 22.5mm back from flush, the scrim joints, PVA 3:1 exsisting wall (no need to PVA plasterboard) and skim it.

If your gonna float it, have the bricks layed back about 10-12mm, PVA bricks and exsisting wall once at 3:1, when its dry float the patch flush (could even throw 2 handfulls of Multi finish in with bonding to help it set bit quicker so your not stood around all day), leave the bonding to go off a little, key the bonding with devil float. When bonding solid, scrim the joints, then roller a few coats of water back into the bonding, (will help control suction of bonding) PVA the rest of the wall once more 3:1, then skim when tacky
 
just brick it up bond it and skim dont worry about 11mm here and there just do it have faith in youself ???
 
mind and leave a vent somewhere for damp takes a while to come through but if your doing private work remember they all have family and friends and in a small place your name can be sh*t in no time
 
vent wants to be as close to the floor as possible in theory but about a foot up smack in the centre of the flue works..
the reason is that space is hollow and if you were to seal it off both at the chimney and below your sealing it in.. any moisture which will soak through the external skin will collect in there and manifest itself on your nice dry inside walls..
damp proofers dont touch em, theres a 1m upstand either side of a chimney breast...
the correct method for ventilation is a chinamans hat type cowl on the pot to stop rainwater ingress whilst allowing ventilation and a vent at the lowest point of the flue to encourage flow of air so its constantly drying even though theres moisture getting in..
 
Thanks for that Segs, 1 more question though mate.

Going on from this thread were the homeowner is going to brick up the hole. How would you install this vent if you were going to float up the wall. Would you tell the customer to leave the right gap in the brickwork or just get customer to sort it out, or just knock a hole in the brickwork before floating the patch.
 
yeh just get the customer to leave a brick out or a 6" square hole, float round it (forget beads) and get a plastic louvre vent and stick it over the hole when your done..
 
bigsegs said:
yeh just get the customer to leave a brick out or a 6" square hole, float round it (forget beads) and get a plastic louvre vent and stick it over the hole when your done..
if it`s totally bricked up drill holes when dry stick vent over top of them
 
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