Base coat / top coat render only

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theblones

Active Member
When applying the base coat for systems like marmorit up210 i think that there is as much work getting the surface all i framed an flat as there is in doing a standard monocouche.

When you spray a topcoat on the base has to be almost perfect which is a bit of a false economy.

I was wondering if i sprayed on my material ruled it off and layed mesh over it and just spatted it over. The mesh would be just under the surface like it would for insulation or boards work. I could then leave a much flatter job there and then without the need to i section the lot, maybe just tidy it up but certainly no need to go back the followin day and spend lots of time on it. I dont think that the waffle float leaves the same flat surface an i frame does

Would it fail doing this method with a base coat like up210
 

Render Systems

Private Member
i never bother mate i just spatular flat and give it a sponge over ready to take thincoat top coat never had any problems
 

merlin

Private Member
thats what we do with render only blones , does leave it flat but you have to rule it spot on , gotta be careful with overlaps tho!
 

theblones

Active Member
It strengthens the render. Are you fully meshing the bridgend job ? I think thats the marmorit spec. Loadsa work. GET this, i been using Primo Base rend l with poly balls and the spec i was given was 10mm then topcoat. No need to mesh anywhere. Never had a problem that i know of with it.

Marmorit spec then says you have to use 15mm of their base rend l (lup222) and use mesh. seems they just want to sell more gear. I asked about it and the rep said the blockwork would grin through. I thought he was talking out his arse. 10mm render plus 2mm topcoat plus a coat of silicone paint and it would grin through. Ha.

Base rend L was rock n roll and i miss it
 

merlin

Private Member
yeah if ya let it pick up a little before ya put mesh in , mesh sits right under surface ,only thing to be careful of like i said is overlaps, last one we done ,we thought base was perfect ,once topper was done it looked good until sun hit it you could see every overlap!
 

spunky

Private Member
Funny that we asked for enough sm 700 to do 20m at 10mm and three bags turned up, what would mesh do to stop The brickwork grinning through ? Standard s/c is the same thickness if reps are giving it the big lips about how good there product is it shouldn't be cracking anyway on standard blocks
 

spunky

Private Member
Are you darbying then dropping back and ruling it again? I'm waiting to have a blast on mateys new machine trying to errrr get a battle plan together sort of thing
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
you will av to rule it sh1t hot. I layed a parmurex mesh coat once in one operation ready for texture but i didnt rate it. I dont think u will ever beat the finish of the Isection followed by a rub. but I aint saying you cant get it near to that.

I know what yyour saying tho baserend is more or less the mono process with an extra visit and finish coat.

Never rule with a spatch tho
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
yeah cut back and then sponge it up to flatten it off next day mate but its like anything its all down to timing/weather/suction/etc same day or next day but same method mostly
 

goody

Private Member
we sprayed sas float which is their grey bagged base render in one pass on blocks. First a rule as like mono with a serrated derby leaving it all slightly proud but only by a mil or so, then the long trapezoid featheredge to knock off highs, then once firmed enough a going over with a magic( yes really!) sponge off ebay, then all spatted flat( this closes in the surface and fills any misses slightly similar to a later trowel in skimming. A bit of a process but done in a day with no wasted scratchback material or mess either. Did half the job using the i-section method then switched to this system. When it was top coated you couldnt tell the difference.
 

kevmc

New Member
ian we actually do it the way your on about when we are using armat novo (sto) they actually recommend you put the scrim into the top 3mm cos if you bed it into the material to deep it could crack over the top we normally stratien it all off using notched strait edges then just lightly press scrim onto the surface .then butter coat the next day. sorry if you think am trying to tell my granny how to suck eggs mate .a promise you am not just trying to be helpfull mate .especially to the ones who are feeling there way round these so called new systems .
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
ian we actually do it the way your on about when we are using armat novo (sto) they actually recommend you put the scrim into the top 3mm cos if you bed it into the material to deep it could crack over the top we normally stratien it all off using notched strait edges then just lightly press scrim onto the surface .then butter coat the next day. sorry if you think am trying to tell my granny how to suck eggs mate .a promise you am not just trying to be helpfull mate .especially to the ones who are feeling there way round these so called new systems .


you right Kev not just STO but all the systems have a spec that mesh should always be in the top third of the base coat as in the third closest the surface.
 

theblones

Active Member
i dont think he is onabout that. it sounds like a tight coat that goes over the base but i was wondering what material
 

spunky

Private Member
ian we actually do it the way your on about when we are using armat novo (sto) they actually recommend you put the scrim into the top 3mm cos if you bed it into the material to deep it could crack over the top we normally stratien it all off using notched strait edges then just lightly press scrim onto the surface .then butter coat the next day. sorry if you think am trying to tell my granny how to suck eggs mate .a promise you am not just trying to be helpfull mate .especially to the ones who are feeling there way round these so called new systems .

kev do you do this with 15 mm backing coats and the thin coat systems ? Say you were doing up210 would you spray it then next day give it a tight coat with the mesh and sponge
 

kevmc

New Member
yeah spunky a try to keep mesh as close to the top as i can. just enough to make sure the overlaps are well pushed in
 

kevmc

New Member
no just keep it back slightly when your bedding scrim in just make sure your nice and neat around beads take a soft brush or sponge and give them a wipe
 

spunky

Private Member
Bear with me mate say it's 15mm beads would you try and spray 10-12mm get that cock on I section etc then next day butter coat and mesh nice and tight and sponge it
 
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