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gotta agree oasis, i've never managed to overboard, even a smallish ceiling, in less than 2 or 3 hours.
 
I always get a lab in when boarding ceilings.

How do you guys find the joists. I bought one of the tools that meant to find them that beeps when you run it over the ceiling but find it just beeps when it wants to.

I now just bang a few holes in the ceiling with a hammer now.
 
If you gently tap with a hammer you can hear the tone change when you find one, knock in a screwdriver to make sure and your away, once you've found one the rest are easy!
 
i might be doing this wrong but i use my makita impact driver and a 3-4" screw and a tape measure.. with the impact u can tell when it hits timber, so i get near were i fink one is and screw around the area till i hit it.. I'm sure one day i will hit something!

And while were on it.. i did an over board of a LATH ceiling the other day and i was useing long dry wall screws but i ran out half way and only had 55mil left it only bit into the timeber 20mil

do you think that is ok? i put loads of screws in. was on 12.5 boards.. only did it on 1 and a half boards
 
A plasterboard isn't going to pull a screw out 20mm into to timber it'll be fine, I use 50mm for over boarding.
 
i think the white book says you want 10mm in timber when boarding so i'd say 20mm for an overboard will be alright
 
slandered overboard and skim price about £250-£300 including materials for me..

wot about u lot
 
I have over boarded s**t loads of houses but i was talking to structual engineer a while go and he told me its not good to do as it can put strains in other areas as the joist cant take the strain with the added weight and can cause other problems so i have been looking at alternative ways at sorting ceilings, if they cant be done by reskim then i just take em down.
 
We took down a lathe ceiling last week and what we didn't no was above the lath or between joists was full of old ash I was told by an old fella they done this as a fire precaution,you learn somthing new everyday
 
carlos said:
I always get a lab in when boarding ceilings.

How do you guys find the joists. I bought one of the tools that meant to find them that beeps when you run it over the ceiling but find it just beeps when it wants to.

I now just bang a few holes in the ceiling with a hammer now.
Click to expand...

If overboarding I take down light first & you can usually see which way the joist is running through the hole. There are also other telltale signs like cracks & nail pops etc.
Then tap along ceiling line till I find other joists then smack a hole either side of the joists & mark the centre of it on the wall, then usually the rest of the joists should be the same distance apart making them easier to locate.
I do this both sides of the room then I lightly hammer a screw into the centre of each joist at ceiling line & hook the chalk line onto the screw & pull to other side of room & snap the chalk line, then just pull out screws.

The reason I make a hole both sides of each joist is sometimes the joists are doubled up as it's coming in from the next room & overlapping the wall about 20" or so, so I know for sure I have the centre of the rite joist doing it this way.
I can usually overboard a ceiling say about 16m2 in an hour & half on me own, easilly.
Board Props make it even easier when boarding on your own I find.
I started using them the a couple of years ago from screwfix.
 
Over boarding plaster lath ceiling's tends to go tits up when you come to the chimney breast, just in front, 2 or 3 feet out from the face, as there is no joist's, tends to be concrete for the fire above, and there are bits of batten lodged in to get a fixing. Finding these is a nightmare, so i always put the first board up in this area to cover the lot, using the nearest joist's for more support. Any body else noticed this ?.
 
del said:
Over boarding plaster lath ceiling's tends to go tits up when you come to the chimney breast, just in front, 2 or 3 feet out from the face, as there is no joist's, tends to be concrete for the fire above, and there are bits of batten lodged in to get a fixing. Finding these is a nightmare, so i always put the first board up in this area to cover the lot, using the nearest joist's for more support. Any body else noticed this ?.
Click to expand...

yes del notice it a lot last one I did was 13" away, If I can't get a fixing in front of the chimney breast I usually gripfill back of board & put screws in at an angle sometimes they catch a lath, holds it enough for the gripfill to go off. but have to be careful as a lot of pipes in that area.

If it's not lath & plaster I rip that area of board down if I can't find any joists & put extra noggins in then just put 2" strips of board on the joists & overboard as normal.

Got a lath & plaster to rip down for company I'm subbing to tomorrow then reboard & skim.
Not sure why it's gotta come down though not seen it yet.
But last one I did was 15m2 & it filled 23 rubble sacks.
Hopefully I'll be able to overboard it ;D
 
----TOP TIP--

Grip fill the board with large dabs on the area that has no fixing then but board on screw up were you can then get your board props and wedge then on the board reali tight and leave there until ready to skim. :)
 
even better tip -
if you know youre overboarding round a chimney breast, take a length of timber with you and some big screws either fix it between the two trimmers that should run either side of the chimney breast or fix it directly to the chimney breast with some concrete screws.. its not exactly difficult...
and leave the bottom edge of the timber flush with the existing plaster line.. 4x2 is ideal...
cant understand people gripfilling plasterboard to ceiling plaster.. especially old lath an plaster...
lintels, yes, theyre solid but old loose ceiling plaster with a dodgy bond that is the reason it is getting overboarded in the first place? eh?
different when its only a tiny area supported by screw fixings either side but then the board should pretty much hold itself anyway, no need for gripfill..
any fixing beit chemical or mechanical is only as good as the substrate youre fixing into...
 
Oasis don't worry just keep using gripfill mate, ;)
it ain't exactly gonna pull the new board & screws out the joists if theres a bit of old dodgy plaster underneath is it now :D :D
 
oasis said:
i was thinking of grip filling the whole ceiling on
Click to expand...

why not it'll save on screws,
just by a load of props
or acro's & planks should do the job nice matey ;D
 
Im with Chris here..u cant grip fill boards to old ceilings ?????come on guys.
Ul be better off screwing into the laths.or ideally apply new lengths of wood where needed.
Also a tub of grip fill is what £5?? and dont go far with big dollopes plastered around.
 
were only talking about the odd area were there is not timber just to take the flap out of the board.. its got a fixing 450 from the grip fill so its just to keep it tight to the ceiling?

only on the odd job..

sod making a big mess and adding new timber.. thats time and time is money mate'e

i might aswell rip the old one down!
 
Same as oasis.

If u read my earlier post Chrisw & skimmin2day I said the joist was 13" from chimney breast so it's only gripfilled & screwed to stop board edge flapping like a whores fanny, also I said about catching laths with screws.
And I also said I put in extra noggins if needed!
But seen as most my work is insurance work for building firms im not being paid to rip them down & add extra noggins
so GRIPFILL it is! ;D ;D
On my own jobs yes I would rip down where needed & add extra timber as I said about half a day ago on this thread
but some people don't seem to read earlier posts ;D

gripfill £5 where do u go ???
;D
 
they've opened a new 99p shop were woolworths used to b, near me...... and they have loads of everbuild pinkgrip, so i bought the whole shelf £28,,, i can do a few ceilings with that.
 
is chris has his way we would not use plasterboard and fix with RSJ's then mesh out and fill with ready mix and skim in 6 months each to there own,...


(only joking buddy :))
 
SkyZOO said:
they've opened a new 99p shop were woolworths used to b, near me...... and they have loads of everbuild pinkgrip, so i bought the whole shelf £28,,, i can do a few ceilings with that.
Click to expand...

pinkgrip on ceilings what a disgrace
;D ;D ;D ;D
 
SkyZOO said:
they've opened a new 99p shop were woolworths used to b, near me...... and they have loads of everbuild pinkgrip, so i bought the whole shelf £28,,, i can do a few ceilings with that.
Click to expand...

I think they sell a similar product in the pound shop by me
not sure how much they sell it for though.
 
Guys SORRY didnt read ur post properly......thats fine to grip fill a small area like that.
But not on my fuc k i n g ceiling !!!!!
 
nisus... when using gripfill to stick boards to ceilings how many blobs do u use per board. cheers mate
 
5 rows of 4 the size of a squashed orange ;D
about 4 tubes per board it's great stuff skyzoo try it mate it's the future of overboarding ;D
 
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