advise wanted,

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i have a gloss wall to skim any advice be for i do it , you can almost see your face in it its so shiny. thanks lads
 
what is it mate i usually use pva i never had to use that stuff before could you please eleborate
 
of course pal...no worries...
its like pva but it has like grit in it (sand or wateva)...so ya skim will key to the wall.u need to apply 24 hours b4 ya skim the wall though, thats the only down side
is it only one wall ya doin pal?? coz thistle bond will set ya back about 35quid plus vat thats all......
 
have a look in the new to plastering section under 'lack of suction? create a key'..
few ideas..
plus theres the suction control section..
dont use pva..
:)
 
If its just the one wall wickes do a bonding agent (Wickes Bonding Agent its called, strangely enough ;D) for about £12. Cheaper option and does the same as thistle bond-it.
 
yeh mate well......... one side of the kitchen is getting dot and dobbed as its fell off to brick, wheres the other side of the kitchen has been previously boarded but the whole room has been re wired so there is chase every were to fill first so back to your question mate , its almosdt 2 and a half walls need skimming after i bond them , i heard i could get some think like bondit out of wicks is this right, ? any one want to send me a bit thats pricey that... thanks for your replys lads
 
haha thanks mate that was weird was typing that as you typed it , may give it a good scrape with a screw driver and sand. with a bit of pva. dont want to fork out that much, when i haveloads of pva in this house
 
he's plastering it addict, not painting it..
corret me here if I'm wrong people but I'm under the impression that plaster either needs a mechanical key or some suction (which i suppose is technically a mechanical key)...
I dont think sanding the wall down will provide sufficient key for plaster, paint maybe..
besides, sanding the wall wont expose the underlying layer where there is some suction (usually)..
I'll bet everyone one here has at some point in their career simply pva'd a gloss wall, let it tack and gone on it with multi...
only to find its a pain in the backside to get a finish on cos it seems that your pushing the entire thickness round the wall, 2 coat or no, because you have to wait for the chemical set to work before it stops moving..
(I'm not talking about plastering on wet pva, just the fact that multi behaves strangely in the absence of suction)
board finish would help no end in this instance because it needs less suction to work, I dont know why, but thats the case..

best idea for that amount would be wba, 1 tub will do it, and you'll achieve a far better end result..
I've learnt an awful lot while I've been on this forum, the above advise being some of it... I'm usually on the lookout for ways to make life easy for myself and wba is the gear to use imo.. having used it and experienced excellent results using board finish..
12 quid for the difference between struggling to get a decent finish and achieving a top class finish with minimum effort is worth every penny imo..

still, theres always the devil float method... works well, just dont expose the suction and then kill it again straight away by applying a too thick mix of pva..
keying the wall beyond the paint thickness will help no end because it will provide some suction for the plaster to adhere and to behave as its designed as it goes off..

anyone remember the thread not too long ago regarding the hallways of a block of flats? skimmed onto gloss walls with a straight pva prep and went hollow?
 
so your say...... if sand the wall down in a circular motion with 60 grit sand paper until all the shine has been removed and then apply a coat pva and skim, the plaster will fall off.
 
chris w read this post u write about skimming on silk mate (which is a shine surface)

nah christ mate 25m is a big ceiling on yer own, i feel it, i do a max 30 on walls..
so...are we sayin then, that pva supplies a key...i tend not to notice too much difference if it HAS dried, in fact ive skimmed over well dried silk paint without pva and its gone lovely...
they go on about tricky timing on gypsum site..maybe this is why yes?
im a bit p"""d myself btw pug :)
in other words my theory bout needin suction is bollox? could be right including all the info...
 
For the sake of £12 , just wba , ok it takes 3 hours to cure , but by the time you have sanded or deviled the wall and pva`ed you may as well just roller this on.I`n my opinion its better watered down a little , do`nt want to start a debate on this though.
 
agree with kebab king,cost you more in labour fafin around sanding it down and still risk it not keying ,take you about 5 mins to wba it no hassle
 
ive neva used this wickes bonding agent.
probs coz there int a wickes anywhere near me for miles....i take it the only place ya can purchase this is wickes itself?...coz if not id like to give it whirl....
 
TrowelADDICT said:
so your say...... if sand the wall down in a circular motion with 60 grit sand paper until all the shine has been removed and then apply a coat pva and skim, the plaster will fall off.
Click to expand...
no mate, and theres no offence intended to your painting knowledge here..
what im saying is there is a hell of a lot more chance of the plaster falling off than if it was either gypbonded or keyed up better such as with a devil float..
pva the wall, let it tack up... what your plaster is gonna stick to is the pva, the pva is gonna stick to the wall.. sort of..
were talking about advise in general, the other day i advised a bloke in a similar situation to just quick devil float it and wack one thick coat on cos he'd asked about the quickest way round the problem..
my advise in this instance was based on what i believe to be the best way..
as far as im aware, pva is a sealer / bonding agent... chippies use a form of it to glue joints BUT where its good at its job is where there is some suction to pull it in.. I dont think the manufacturers would recommend pva to bond sealed surfaces like plastic / formica etc...
That would mean that theres a chance that the pva would de-bond from the gloss... bringing the plaster with it... it may not do, but theres a good chance... that post about the flats / hallway was a good example...

TrowelADDICT said:
chris w read this post u write about skimming on silk mate (which is a shine surface)

nah christ mate 25m is a big ceiling on yer own, i feel it, i do a max 30 on walls..
so...are we sayin then, that pva supplies a key...i tend not to notice too much difference if it HAS dried, in fact ive skimmed over well dried silk paint without pva and its gone lovely...
they go on about tricky timing on gypsum site..maybe this is why yes?
im a bit p"""d myself btw pug :)
in other words my theory bout needin suction is bollox? could be right including all the info...
Click to expand...

I remember skimming a small silk painted ceiling with multi last year... If i remember rightly that is the job i was referring to...
well old house, but what i did notice was the fact that the multi didnt go all cheeselike as it would on gloss... im not a painter but from what i could gather there must have been some suction, albeit a small amount, i had 3 walls with it and had the ceiling in one coat so it wasnt like i was back on it straight away anyway..
it did behave like pva'd matt paint though... now i dunno if thats anything to do with silk being water based and gloss being oil based or what, youd be the man to answer that one, that was just my experience... ive had other silk jobs that have behaved like gloss and really wanted wba..
gloss paint however, different animal, ive had a few attempts at having gloss painted reveals in the past without a key or any prep and had a nightmare every time...
anyway, context of that post was a debate over whether to pva day before and let it dry? or was it about wba? all about the 'key' anyroad..
pva will liven up when you wet it if its dried.. (not waterproof pva obviously).. solves the 'dry' pva thing..
pva as a bonding agent over a gloss surface... knowing what i know now, i wouldnt recommend it..
youre 'polymer based' stuff like wba, gybond or bostic glue are designed for smooth shiny surfaces like gloss paint, or model aircraft kits... you wouldnt stick a model aircraft together with pva..

i could be wrong on a few points but if i was that far out, then there would be no need for products such as wba as plastering onto tacky pva whatever the surface should do the job perfectly well.. the fact that theyre available in the first place should say something in itself..
Im only going off my own experience and information ive picked up along the way..
first time i used wba was last year, on recommendation from this forum...
only my opinion.... no offense intended mate, i dont know how we'd go about proving either theory in any case.. it would need a chemistry expert i suppose? or ask british gysum?
I have been known to talk bollox from time to time... ;D
 
sppose you could always paint some pva onto a gloss surface, let it dry / tack stick some multi or better still boardy on it, let that dry and see how easy it is to get off ???
 
cheese big ears. i took the advise of trowel addict and it came up fine no probs , thanks lads
 
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