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re-occuring theme in a few threads this week... No Tiling On Backing Plasters you scallywag!

Its a partition wall that was put up to separate the lounge from the porch/hallway area leading to the stairs. So drafts from front door and noise mainly But also as its close to 4m long and 9' high, I want a good, solid surface for plastering as its the main wall that catches the sunlight in...

Spark - its actually a cavity wall of brick, there hard as nails and deep red, the only other give away of eng bricks is the shiny surface but i cant see that on the inside so maybe they are something else, or maybe years of old plaster has dulled the faces... either way theyve been cleaned up...

will be marking ceiling and floor too, dont worry about that. Much appreciated cheers

horizontal then vertical - thats sound mate cheers

I have removed the old laths from a stud wall, and want to double board it for a couple of reasons... but ive not double boarded before and am trying to work out how best to place/stagger the boards to avoid joins etc i.e. lay on the first layer of 8x4s horizontally then the second layer...

I have to admit that following lots of swearing and wasted time with scrim - i just use anything half way sticky and staple it - job done

feck it - im sold - just ordered a 16" s*p*r*lex plaz trowel & a sponge float... cos my marshalltown sponge is bollox according to spunky :o)

Tilers shouldnt be tiling over backing plasters, what does the site agent say about that?

fking T***s some people - the couple of jobs ive done for friends i always call em the night before and say "wall paper all off?" & "room clear?" if the answer to either of those is no i say "let me know when it is then"... feck getting up and travelling for feck all... it takes the piss cos...

Any reason why the chap wants to keep the wooden beads? I should rip em off and replace with new galv angles/stops or whatever you need to reform your corners/edges You could freehand your corners but i cant see why you would want too, use a bead, its what they're for

Right - I had a look at removing the old stuff and it looks like someone at some point has had some damp problems... the bottom half of the bay is rendered (see pic) so ill have to render the rest of the wall too.. I had wondered if to add a little SBR to mix but am always a little unsure using...

Dont know how many people take any notice of it, but according to the spec sheet for Bonding... "Tiles should not be applied directly to Thistle undercoats, with the exception of Thistle Dry-Coat".

thats fair enough - i gotta say i find hardwall/bonding much easier to lay on, but maybe thats just me... the brick i was talking about is engineering brick and i couldnt believe how much it sucked in... despite being wire brushed first and then pvad, i always thought that engineering brick...

thanks as always for the help guys - any reason why you would render instead of gyp based, thermal U value, more breathable etc...

Im in the same boat as you Bagrat, ill keep an eye on this and see how you get on. Have only ever used a sponge to get me out of trouble, but never tried it during a normal skim, mind you, i aint tried a plastic trowel neither.

cheers joejoe but the brick walls are all over the place - fixing any battens to em would be a nightmare to get plumb - ill do as you suggest and chip it off leaving a level at the top of the wall -- nice one cheers

its gotta be i reckon my mind was made up to be honest but thought id sound people out on here in case im creating more work for myself

Hi chaps - Ive got a lounge to do in a Victorian Terrace House. The old plaster is literally falling off of the walls in places, and in others its solid-ish where its been previously repaired with bond n skim.. The problem is that the owner wants to keep the original plaster coving at all...

A sparky mate of mine was saying that its quite common, especially in London, for site agents, foremen jobs etc to have "able to speak Polish an advantage".... ive never known how true that was but this advert sort of backs it up

It wasnt so long ago on this forum that i remember someone saying something like "if you turned up to work for me and used a sponge float when skimming Id kick you off the job".... And it seems now that people are raving about em - i cant get my head round how this place works... Anyway -...

i will try that method beddy - cant say ive ever thought about doing it that way.... so am i the only one who marks top n bottom and then cuts with blade using a (clean) feather edge as a guide???

ok cheers for replies chaps - all taken on board and will feel happier if it happens again

its good to see a handfull of comments that arent all saying the same thing - cos i was sure i hadnt done anything different to previous... i did lay on a little thick in places as was trying to take a kick out of the existing wall... maybe thats what it was. thanks for comment - as always...

1 - it tells you on the front/back of each bag 2 - if you dont have a bag of whichever one at hand, go to the Brit Gyp Website, Knauf Website etc 3 - download the tech sheets for each product either to your pc or your smartphone I have the tech sheets for all of the products on my phone in...

...that you get if you get on flattening/trowelling too soon. Well I did a wall yesteday, it was the upstairs landing, reskim on old plaster that i wba'd it for various reasons. Anyways, so ive skimmed it, left it, cleaned up etc, come for a check and its all curing or virtually gone off...

I scrim all joints and use staples every time now, pssed off with it falling off the ceiling as im just about to start... or worse still when the trowel picks it up and drags it I only fill joints first if going onto tapered edge though

It wasnt over polished trust me - im strictly eggshell finish... or put another way "fek it im done" :o) Id take a picture of it to show you what i mean - but you only see it when the light catches it... not a big deal but bloody annoying cos you know its there. My next door neighbor was...

unless its a big area it dont seem worth quoting a metre rate - private/dom jobs just charge what youre happy to work for..

I do - its what i was shown and i think it makes life easier for your second coat - especially on bigger areas

ive tried mist coating then top coating etc - i think it needs a damned good sanding

hmm - ok well i guess its not as common as id thought then, back to the drawing boards on this one i think... ahh well thanks anyway

thanks Bagrat - i dont have a bag handy just at the moment - could you sum it up for me and does it mention the "unpaintable marks" im talking about?

cheers for reply rock but yes i do use a spray bottle.. well i use a spray bottle with clean water and a 5" brush for trowelling up.. its like a run of pva but no pva-ing was done after the chimney breast, it was the last wall i did... cant work it out for the life of me

its exactly like that - a pva splash - but as far as i know that couldnt have happened... and the water run off from trowelling was all good when id finished, however when dried and painted you can see some run marks... its a bitch and has got me stumped

I skimmed a fireplace that id dot n dabbed a board too, but when mist coated could see the water/fat run off from my wet trowel finish on the right hand side of the fireplace. Thought it would come out with the next coat etc but you can still see it even with top coat of emulsion...

I got a mate to help me board my h.s.c ceilings and the only time he wasnt txting was when he was holding up a sheet of board, it really pissed me off, he is one of these 100 a day people and thinks that its perfectly fine.... how the fk he gets anything done on a day to day basis is beyond me...

cheers - im happy with how it turned out..

Right - sorry for the delay in posting, was doing family stuff yesterday and Saturday after working i was fked... shoulder aching, neck aching, back aching.... but I did it, and did it as best as i could so Im well happy... not only that i did a fireplace wall that they wanted dot n dabbed too...

Cheers spunky! i did a ceiling at home and spent so much time fking about trying to lay on neatly around the lighting cable, when i came back to test the first area for flattening in, it was virtually hard... i managed to rescue it but fk me did i panic... but wise words ill remember em tomorrow...

thanks for the comments mate - i know i havent been on the forum that long - 4 months or so - but i still aint worked out if this cream of tartar is a wind up or not, dont mean to offend if it isnt. ill be on a 500mm high 4' long hop up, im not kitted out with stilts, trestles and scaf planks...

No big deal for you guys i know but this week i overboarded a 9' high ceiling for a friend - 6 sheets of 8x4 12mm board - 2 sheets long, 3 wide... and im gonna skim the bitch tomorrow. ill be doing it on my own, ive got to get it right with the quantity of mix, timings and all the rest of it...

its worth noting that different makes will feel differently too, i have a Marshalltown and a Tyzack, both stainless, both same size, but the difference in flexability stands out like a sore thumb..

From the sounds of it, and i may have this wrong from your description, but id stick thincoat stop beads up tight to the brick and skim to that. Sort out the gap between bead and motar joints after.

you can get 3mm thin coat angles at b&q, but no 3mm stop beads, I had to get them from TP or Jewsons

was the mask in any way related to plastering or is this a fetish thing bubbles?

right -- thanks -- that looks just the ticket beddy - aint too pricey neither.. back to the question - if you go to a job, suspect an asbestos artex ceiling, do you overboard (wearing mask) and skim. Or do you walk away from it...? I mean are there any building regs that say you shouldnt...

no mate - its just a question, i was wondering if there was any benefit in buying a joist finder... then got thinking about artex ceilings with asbestos in em, and how you would find joists to overboard without creating dust.. you chaps must come across it when overboarding old artex so was...

no im on about a ceiling with a posibility of asbestos in the old artex

no mate, if i was concerned about asbestos I would neither screw into it nor bang a nail in, so what do you do in that case... walk away, ask for a test to be done to confirm, do nothing unless the ceiling is removed first? thats what im asking.