Hello there, I have a number of projects within the house which require a seamless transition from plasterboard walls to wooden alcoves where I do not want to add a frame to built-in alcoves and between a plasterboard wall and a bookcase which will be integrated into studding alongside a wall...
I know it would be easier to get someone in but I really want to do this myself as I enjoy learning new skills, but before I do I just want to ensure I am using the right products. Based on what you have said I should be fine to use cement, lime, plastering sand and water to render the fireplace...
Thank you all for your tips, particularly the one quoted.
Is a plastic float better than a wooden one? I would imagine that it is because it cannot suck out the moisture in the mix when rubbing the area.
How much time would you give an area of brickwork after first applying the mixture to a...
The reason that this whole thing started up was because I had read that sand and cement do not respond well to heat and it will cause cracking as it dries out the mixture leading to a chemical change. I am pretty sure I read that mortar/concrete depends on moisture being retained within to...
I have found a suitable product in the UK. Thistle Browning is a gypsum undercoat plaster for use on moderate suction backgrounds with an adequate mechanical key, e.g. some brickwork or blockwork. With a final coat of Thistle Multi Finish, Thistle Browning provides a smooth, inert, high quality...
Thank you for the reply. Should I use regular red builders sand? Which hydrated lime product do you recommend and should I use a regular square ended plastering trowel to smooth it up?
Thank you for your helpful reply. The application is onto bare brick and it must be heat resistant unlike standard plaster to withstand the heat from a fireplace on the chimneybreast front and sides.
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