Damp spreading

ok skirting comming off this afternoon and have contacted someone about soughting the outside work .....and im off to the planning/council tomorrow to get the outside on the move...how can a house that was there have bloody foundation bricks and courses still outside ?? surely they would have removed all that when they demolished the cottage next door ? how can the mess outside be my problem when its not my land ???
 
ok skirting comming off this afternoon and have contacted someone about soughting the outside work .....and im off to the planning/council tomorrow to get the outside on the move...how can a house that was there have bloody foundation bricks and courses still outside ?? surely they would have removed all that when they demolished the cottage next door ? how can the mess outside be my problem when its not my land ???
You will find most others don't respect or give a s**t especially at councils etc. They employ the worst tradesmen of all as they wouldn't get a job anywhere else.
 
Alls well and turns out well hey,this Jeff Howell has a lot to answer to....fukin uni lecturer with a government funded grant trying to prove there was no rising damp...pffft.
I'll have one last word on this guys and I'll put it to bed!
Rising damp is a real thing as Iv said. True rising is very very rear but can be made worse by bringing etc,the problem is damp in domestic households has been misdiagnosed for many years leading to people to become sceptical about the whole idea of rising damp,then a supposed leading r.i.c.s building surveyor Jeff Howell came up with this.
Then you have many damp firms employing surveyors who will misdiagnose damp as they get a cut!turn it on its head for a sec, you have also got this leading figure making money out of the whole idea so what ever he says can't be taken for gospel either!!simple guys a little test get a roasting tit out ,half fill it with water,get a stock brick an old one maybe a reclaimed and put it in the tin and leave to marinate for a week and see what happens!! Wow it soaks up the water so what would we call it?
RISING DAMP!!!!! Until next time we discuss this xx .
I've done it I layed four bricks on a bed of mortar and stood then for a week in a tray and guess what? Yes there was capillary action taking place but we are talking an inch then settled.also won £50 in the process. Still waiting on proof :)
 
How many more jeffing times do you need telling FFS

Im talking about the inside ....as so many T***s today who call themselves tradesman wouldnt know one if they fell over one....i went to night school and got my certificate im now a bricklayer..yeah right .....done a bit of mixing for a couple of guys before (bricklayers) Do you know how many times we had to smash walls down because of gangs of brickies (tradesman) who were cowboys...they were told to---- off and dont come back...everybody seems to have different ideas ...dont worry about the outside ill get it done .Im talking about the inside ......you all have different ideas ?? blah,blahblah ?? just wont to know whos the tradesman actually are...not interested in idiots who talk shite all day ...inject cream ...no dont inject cream ??? dab this no dont ,use lime ?? now can you see what i mean !!!! Grade 2 listed building chalk and stone walls ........been self employed m8 for 35 years never known the building trade to have so many wankers in it ,im not a builder ..furniture was my game and i always gave my customers the truth ...yeah you buy s**t or go middle of the road or go upmarket simple.my old man use to have property and two aparments had that drilling injecting stuff 20 years ago ...biggest load of b*ll***s ive ever seen ....never stopped the damp it came back ...25 yr it will be good for ....yeah right .....
 
But do you know what
I think those lightweight blocks used to block up a fireplace? I'm guessing here is the core of your problem

So i got a few blocks in the middle of the wall and the damp is either side of them ...so it makes the blocks one of the reasons why its damp ? where the blocks are is bone dry
 
Im talking about the inside ....as so many T***s today who call themselves tradesman wouldnt know one if they fell over one....i went to night school and got my certificate im now a bricklayer..yeah right .....done a bit of mixing for a couple of guys before (bricklayers) Do you know how many times we had to smash walls down because of gangs of brickies (tradesman) who were cowboys...they were told to---- off and dont come back...everybody seems to have different ideas ...dont worry about the outside ill get it done .Im talking about the inside ......you all have different ideas ?? blah,blahblah ?? just wont to know whos the tradesman actually are...not interested in idiots who talk shite all day ...inject cream ...no dont inject cream ??? dab this no dont ,use lime ?? now can you see what i mean !!!! Grade 2 listed building chalk and stone walls ........been self employed m8 for 35 years never known the building trade to have so many wankers in it ,im not a builder ..furniture was my game and i always gave my customers the truth ...yeah you buy s**t or go middle of the road or go upmarket simple.my old man use to have property and two aparments had that drilling injecting stuff 20 years ago ...biggest load of b*ll***s ive ever seen ....never stopped the damp it came back ...25 yr it will be good for ....yeah right .....



And you have been told about the inside how many times ? You have not even took the skirting off. You are just wasting everyone's time
 
But do you know what


So i got a few blocks in the middle of the wall and the damp is either side of them ...so it makes the blocks one of the reasons why its damp ? where the blocks are is bone dry
They are highly porous whereas stone is not that's why
 
Knock off the existing render if you have time let the walls dry as much as you can .
l*m*-g***n , baumit , tellings, all do barrier mortar all lime based, use this on the damp areas as they will stop the salts coming through to the surface .
Then floating coat of lime render , I mix my own as pre bagged stuff is expensive.
Then lime skim! Again make your own if you can you will get twice as much if you can be bothered to mix it yourself . All done , happy days
 
Hi guys,
I have a damp problem which seems to be mainly rising damp and I need to know if the following process and products are correct
1. removed old plaster - upto 1.2m from floor
2. drill and inject into mortar line on all walls with (dry tech cream)
3. tank concrete floor and all walls upto 1.2m from floor with (febtank super) two coats (24hr drying between coats)
4. plaster with thistle dri-coat
5. finish with multi-finish
Can anyone tell me if this sounds about right.. also, do I need to pva between any of these processes?
Thanks a lot...
 
Hi guys,
I have a damp problem which seems to be mainly rising damp and I need to know if the following process and products are correct
1. removed old plaster - upto 1.2m from floor
2. drill and inject into mortar line on all walls with (dry tech cream)
3. tank concrete floor and all walls upto 1.2m from floor with (febtank super) two coats (24hr drying between coats)
4. plaster with thistle dri-coat
5. finish with multi-finish
Can anyone tell me if this sounds about right.. also, do I need to pva between any of these processes?
Thanks a lot...
Can you post some pictures? There are few guys on here who are very good. For sure they will help you out.
 
You are spot on my friend, damp proofing nowadays is more to do with covering up and sealing in the problem than trying to solve it.
By the sound of this, it's not a rising damp problem but a penetrating damp or a condensation problem.
Without being able to see the problem it is impossible to be 100% sure what is causing your issues.
The type of building you have is a solid twin wall construction, built using lime mortar, it would have had lime plaster on the inside, finished with a lime wash. This would have allowed the building to breathe,
most older buildings need original materials in order to work properly. The problem is that most tradesmen do not understand how lime mortar, plaster, render, works let alone how to apply it.
The type of materials required to correct your issues are still available although a lot more expensive, but without actually finding the source of the water ingress it will be impossible to correct.
 
I have been on this forum
Hi guys,
I have a damp problem which seems to be mainly rising damp and I need to know if the following process and products are correct
1. removed old plaster - upto 1.2m from floor
2. drill and inject into mortar line on all walls with (dry tech cream)
3. tank concrete floor and all walls upto 1.2m from floor with (febtank super) two coats (24hr drying between coats)
4. plaster with thistle dri-coat
5. finish with multi-finish
Can anyone tell me if this sounds about right.. also, do I need to pva between any of these processes?
Thanks a lot...

no probs you need some cream ..remove your skirting boards..tank it ..skim it ..re plaster....then move house quick
 
You've had a full survey on here and your still not happy :) your problem is outside so until this is solved no point trying to fix inside. The inside needs to be done with a line sand mortar stay away from s and c, s and cement is too strong for the stone so will blow the face off the stone locking in moisture it's also a bad insulator. You've had another gypsum backing plaster over the top which has made things worse. My advise would be to get the outside sorted first then insulate the wall, with a few systems to choose if you do a search also maybe speak to @Bauwer.
 
You are spot on my friend, damp proofing nowadays is more to do with covering up and sealing in the problem than trying to solve it.
By the sound of this, it's not a rising damp problem but a penetrating damp or a condensation problem.
Without being able to see the problem it is impossible to be 100% sure what is causing your issues.
The type of building you have is a solid twin wall construction, built using lime mortar, it would have had lime plaster on the inside, finished with a lime wash. This would have allowed the building to breathe,
most older buildings need original materials in order to work properly. The problem is that most tradesmen do not understand how lime mortar, plaster, render, works let alone how to apply it.
The type of materials required to correct your issues are still available although a lot more expensive, but without actually finding the source of the water ingress it will be impossible to correct.
You are confusing the op I think! What he needs is tanking the walls up to the ceiling. This system is very good and proven with the time, but only after dpc injection.
 
lift a skirt, rub in cream, inside and out....... if you read between the lines
Damp spreading
 
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