Not bad for a first attempt ??

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put a sock on that open drain down spout pal you dont want that splashin all up your work.
what you think of the weber
 
Should I not have gone to the floor Bruce ?? Like I said, first time - what should I have done mate ?

And Plasterjfe, going back tomorrow to put all guttering back - as for how did I find it - I learnt not to play with it very quicklly else it starts to tear but on the whole, I really enjoyed putting it on, pleased with the end result
 
Never used mono but when rendering you need to put a bellcast usually 2 courses up so its off the floor. Otherwise it'll soak up water. Am i being thick here or what?!
 
you should cut that back from the deck i didnt realise you rendered all the way down. especially with a monocolour it will be mouldy in no time. you want a drip at dpc level
 
i contacted marmorit tech because i had a job like this and they said as long as the customer doesnt mind the first 8-10 inchs getting sh.it high then there is no problem what so ever
 
Nip back with a 4 inch grinder and some lengths of roofing batten. Screw the batten to the bottom of the wall, about 4 inches from the floor. Run your grinder along the top edge to cut through the render (use the guard as a depth stop so you don't cut into the brickwork) then remove the screws from the batten, get a bolster and chisel off the render below the cut.

Bit of a cowboy job but it'd kind of solve the problem?! ;)

Just be very careful not to chip the edge as it'll have no strength in it cos there's no bead.
 
Ha ha ha hope I haven't opened a can of worms here guys.

Just out of interest, if I did hack off the bottom 4 inches or so, what would I do with the exposed blockwork ? S&C render the bottom 4 inches ?
 
pristineplastering said:
Ha ha ha hope I haven't opened a can of worms here guys.

Just out of interest, if I did hack off the bottom 4 inches or so, what would I do with the exposed blockwork ? S&C render the bottom 4 inches ?
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No coz you'll just be puttin back on what youve taken off!
Paint it to make it look better I suppose.
 
Its only the bottom 4 inches or so to damp proof course so its not really noticeable hows about black masonry paint?
 
the idea is not to bridge the damp just leave the bottom as brick or some exterior paint if you want to tidy it
 
Theoreticaly what can happen is that damp can travel up the wall between the render and the wall above DPC level and cause problems.
 
which it wont do.

Nearly every job i have even been on on a s/c job the walls are scratched down to the deck then the bellcasts put up and topped so same difference.
 
new topic needed on dpc and bridging damp on render for the lad to read. least then he knows why he needs a bell instead of either rendering to the floor or putting one on cos someone told him to

leave it for now and see what happens, if they call you up somewhere down the line then you will have to sort it but until then just see what happens
 
Quite right Rich it wont but thats the theory any way, idealy on new work face brickwork to DPC then bellcast and render.
 
I hope you put mesh in your scratch coat as it will crack where all the different substrates meet. also never ever take any render or dashing etc to the deck ALWAYS leave 2 course of brick showing, paint with bitumastic paint as a contrast but i usually leave that to the client... asking for trouble taking it to the deck ;)
 
I put similar next to my little garden wall and it still soaked up water. Granted it wasnt a ft deep. Ive seen basement window bays done like that and they worked, dont know how long for though.
 
It does work but u need to get rid of as much clay/sand as poss
to let water drain away. If theres a lot of sand in there give
Flynnyman a buzz cos he recycles it to cool the planet
 
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