Nightmare Client

too_scared

New Member
As a prospective client, I thought it might be worth testing the water here before I becoming someone’s nightmare client.

We are buying a house with artex ceilings (no asbestos) so plan to have these skimmed. Potentially remove ground floor plasterboard ceilings to allow easier access for new lighting and network wiring, ducting, acoustic insulation, and fix any creaking floorboards from below.

Presumably above is fairly vanilla, although maybe some might argue that replacing the plasterboard rather than just skimming the artex is over the top. (Any opinions welcome).

Controversially (maybe), I was considering the following design features be incorporated too. But wanted to know what the trade thinks. Perhaps they are great in design magazines but impossible to execute properly in the real world (1990s house).

Shadow gap reveals around the edge of the ceilings, either 15mm or 20mm.
Example link

Trimless/Flush down light fittings which are recessed and plastered in. Some allow faulty electrics to be replaced without reopening the plaster up (then filling, sanding, rolling the whole ceiling again). Others don’t.
Example link

I’ve not yet asked any tradesmen, as I don’t want to p1ss the good ones off before even getting a quote!

Any thoughts welcome.

Thanks
 
As a prospective client, I thought it might be worth testing the water here before I becoming someone’s nightmare client.

We are buying a house with artex ceilings (no asbestos) so plan to have these skimmed. Potentially remove ground floor plasterboard ceilings to allow easier access for new lighting and network wiring, ducting, acoustic insulation, and fix any creaking floorboards from below.

Presumably above is fairly vanilla, although maybe some might argue that replacing the plasterboard rather than just skimming the artex is over the top. (Any opinions welcome).

Controversially (maybe), I was considering the following design features be incorporated too. But wanted to know what the trade thinks. Perhaps they are great in design magazines but impossible to execute properly in the real world (1990s house).

Shadow gap reveals around the edge of the ceilings, either 15mm or 20mm.
Example link

Trimless/Flush down light fittings which are recessed and plastered in. Some allow faulty electrics to be replaced without reopening the plaster up (then filling, sanding, rolling the whole ceiling again). Others don’t.
Example link

I’ve not yet asked any tradesmen, as I don’t want to p1ss the good ones off before even getting a quote!

Any thoughts welcome.

Thanks
I personally couldn't be bothered with the hassle of either of these. I mainly work on much older properties though so it really wouldn't be for me in the first place.
 
As a prospective client, I thought it might be worth testing the water here before I becoming someone’s nightmare client.

We are buying a house with artex ceilings (no asbestos) so plan to have these skimmed. Potentially remove ground floor plasterboard ceilings to allow easier access for new lighting and network wiring, ducting, acoustic insulation, and fix any creaking floorboards from below.

Presumably above is fairly vanilla, although maybe some might argue that replacing the plasterboard rather than just skimming the artex is over the top. (Any opinions welcome).

Controversially (maybe), I was considering the following design features be incorporated too. But wanted to know what the trade thinks. Perhaps they are great in design magazines but impossible to execute properly in the real world (1990s house).

Shadow gap reveals around the edge of the ceilings, either 15mm or 20mm.
Example link

Trimless/Flush down light fittings which are recessed and plastered in. Some allow faulty electrics to be replaced without reopening the plaster up (then filling, sanding, rolling the whole ceiling again). Others don’t.
Example link

I’ve not yet asked any tradesmen, as I don’t want to p1ss the good ones off before even getting a quote!

Any thoughts welcome.

Thanks

Either


Or both



Long as you've got the paper, do what you like.

Hope this helps.
 
The shadow gap would be easy enough by keeping the new plasterboard back from the walls and fitting a bead. But I'm not sure that it's the best way forward from both a sound transfer point of view or as a fire break?
Ideally fully board the ceilings, the fit another layer back from the walls. Better on all fronts.
I've worked around the flush fit down lights, what a pain in the arse they are. They allow way to much thickness for a standard skim (2mm), easily over double, probably three times as thick or more.
 
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The end
 
Both are achievable but neither are easy options and you'll find it harder to find somebody willing/able to do it.
Saying your on a limited budget, as most seem to be after spending a fortune on the kitchen Pisses trades off,so does changing your mind/spec after getting the job priced!
If your clear on what you want, have the money to pay for it (probably at least 4x what you expect) get someone who's done similar and used the products before.
Then there should be no Nightmares either way.

P.s I'm unavailable I've done them before and there a Nightmare!
 
The shadow gap would be easy enough by keeping the new plasterboard back from the walls and fitting a bead. But I'm not sure that it's the best way forward from both a sound transfer point of view or as a fire break?
Ideally fully board the ceilings, the fit another layer back from the walls. Better on all fronts.
I've worked around the flush fit down lights, what a pain in the arse they are. They allow way to much thickness for a standard skim (2mm), easily over double, probably three times as thick or more.
Did a house with 80 of those plaster in lights. We cut out a frisbee of 12.5mm board, and replaced it with 9.5mm. The bead then sat 2mm proud. A tight palaver, but looked mint.
 
Both details are straight forward but the problem you will find is a plasterer that is prepared to do this kind of work. I've installed and plastered around lots of these light fittings...the datasheet needs to be read. They are tricky to install and keep clean while plastering. Shadow gap may need careful setting out.

If you are on a budget don't bother as only experienced plasterers (with patience) will be interested and they will charge accordingly around £350 to £500 per day.
 
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