moisture resistant boards

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nsm1982

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starting a job tomorrow and the room has been boarded with half moisture resistant boards why i dont know but it wants a full skim would you pva allthe boards or just the moisture resistant boards ??? ???
 
i have heard people say you need to pva first but i have always put the gear straight on the board and never had a problem. most of the timber frames we do down here have it in the kitchen area and bathrooms but never been asked to prepare the boards first
 
I cant remember how long ago it was (maybe 10 years + but la farge reconmended betacontak on there MR board but since then i think the rules have changed and they say go straight on now not sure about other board suppliers.
 
Apparently you can not skim straight onto MR boards , you either have to pva or wba , thats according to gyproc
been skimmin em for years ,till some one on here said you cant , wtf ??? ???
 
If you can joint em why not skim em? Essentially the same, spreading 'plaster' on the board, wether it be the joints or the board? To be fair I've always used bond-it but do you need to?
 
Says on the back of a bag of board finish they need to be prepedf with bond it.

Also says that they should only be skimmed if ongoing moistoure resistance is NOT required.

If it says you should in the spec you should.
 
ziggy2 said:
If you can joint em why not skim em? Essentially the same, spreading 'plaster' on the board, wether it be the joints or the board? To be fair I've always used bond-it but do you need to?
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Jointing materials are different to plaster mate.
 
from an old school plasterer- moisture resistant boards are covered with a 'wax' type substance which makes 'em 'moisture resistant' You have to pva them b4 u skim them or else the multi etc will eventually let go. HOWEVER when u pva em they are no longer moisture resistant.. scam i know but they are designed 4 taping and jointing
 
I've seen skim shell off mr boards.
They are impregnated with silicone.
Supposed to use bond-it.
Pva's no good on em ;)
 
old school plasterer i fekkin hate that term all the old boys work is shite all the walls in old houses are all over the shop yeah they could do everything but a modern day proper spread is better than an "old school" spread imo :eek:
 
napper83 said:
old school plasterer i fekkin hate that term all the old boys work is (german word)e all the walls in old houses are all over the shop yeah they could do everything but a modern day proper spread is better than an "old school" spread imo :eek:
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have a bit of respect young man tut tut
 
i would class myself as a old school plasterer, reason being i was taught by my father, i started in 1982, he in turn was taught by the local plasterer in his town on leaving school in 1960, he was taught from a plasterer in the late 40's 1950, and so on and on ,so on that basis the plastering techniques and attitudes to high standard of workmanship have been handed down (so to speak).when i started learning the trade we always worked on high end properties, not just plastering walls and ceilings but running cornice,panel moulds and such alike, i often queried with them who plastered small houses,extensions, there reply was that "spreads do those boy, plasterers do these" meaning the large houses.. anyway possibly the reason for all those bumpy uneven walls is that they could of been done by early day spreads,(like those eastern europeans who call themselves plasterers.rough as fukc) when all the plasterers were working on grander scale jobs. "never do yourself down, never be called a spread, always be called a plasterer ignore those who say otherwise" my fathers motto..
 
napper83 said:
old school plasterer i fekkin hate that term all the old boys work is (german word)e all the walls in old houses are all over the shop yeah they could do everything but a modern day proper spread is better than an "old school" spread imo :eek:
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There were just as many rough plasterers in times gone past as there are now, just that the old school rough spreads were able to be rough in more aspects of the trade.
Being good or being rough is more about your attitude to the work you do rather than the level of skill, my father says he was taught the trade by a guy who was as rough as f**k but because he wanted to be good he put the required time and effort into doing a good job. How many times have you known a rough tradesman make a really good job of their own house just showing that it was their attitude that was lacking not their skill level. Of course there are also those that just can't do the job properly.
 
point taken,but years ago there wasn't a attitude as to get the job done asap,meaning it took as long as i took to do the job correctly, mordern day plasterers are put under pressure to finish jobs quickly as following trades stand in the doorway waiting to second fix etc.. the majority of the time jobs are run by accountants or guys thst no fukc about plastering,not like old tradesmen that progressed to site managers and understood building practices, if any one is given the time the plastering should be fine, but working for low meter rates mean you chase the bucks,2 trowels and a dry one if your lucky. where as we cross grain ceiling lines skirting and corners,or trowel/ float/ trowel ceilings. yet in saying that..... you can't polish a turd!
 
im with andy .......i was tought by a lad who has 200 years plastering handed down and im rubbish
 
I'm doing a timber frame house at the mo and have left the mr boards in a shower area to just be tiled directly. By skimming them as the 'client' wants, am i making the boards not moisture resistant therefore defeating the purpose of them? Can the tiler just go straight onto the green boards with no problems?
 
Tiler can go straight on them with the right adhesive if you skim them it lessens the weight of tile the wall can carry and as has been said nullifies the moisture resistance of the board, must admit i didnt know that but i never skim them anyway no point.
Lucius.
 
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