Float and set or dob and dab on repair

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ChrisF

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I've had two areas (approx 1m x 1m) of wall cut out of a float and set wall due to damp. The damp issue has been rectified by repointing outside.

My plaster told me he'd prefer to dob and dab the areas, then just skim over. He says it will look exactly the same which I'm inclined to agree.

However, I don't quite feel it's the right course of action but I don't know enough about it but to state why. Personally, I feel it needs to be put back to how it was. What would others thoughts be?

His exact words:

"You have to scratch coat, bead up, float coat, bead up again then skim. And to do it the correct way that skirting should be coming off. It's a stupid amount of work for something that will have the same look and finish"
 
so obviously it's been penetrating damp and the issues been sorted so I can't see why it can't be floated back in with hardwall and skimmed or if your anal dri coat
 
Obviously a s**t plasterer that can't float a wall.
ChrisF said:
I've had two areas (approx 1m x 1m) of wall cut out of a float and set wall due to damp. The damp issue has been rectified by repointing outside.

My plaster told me he'd prefer to dob and dab the areas, then just skim over. He says it will look exactly the same which I'm inclined to agree.

However, I don't quite feel it's the right course of action but I don't know enough about it but to state why. Personally, I feel it needs to be put back to how it was. What would others thoughts be?

His exact words:

"You have to scratch coat, bead up, float coat, bead up again then skim. And to do it the correct way that skirting should be coming off. It's a stupid amount of work for something that will have the same look and finish"
Click to expand...
 
I don't get why beading twice though cos surely if was thickness that was a problem would t you just put a heavy scratch on then bead up then scratch again before final float?
 
Pagey said:
I don't get why beading twice though cos surely if was thickness that was a problem would t you just put a heavy scratch on then bead up then scratch again before final float?
Click to expand...
Pretty sure he is on about putting skim beads on top of the float beads before he skims. I've heard about other plasterers doing this and I also did it on a chimney breast I opened up this week, it was the bottom half below a dado rail and I had off cuts so used them, you get a sharper angle with the skim beads.
 
I find that quite strange I was brought up on floating since a 16 year old kid . But hey each to there own method eh
 
Djr said:
I find that quite strange I was brought up on floating since a 16 year old kid . But hey each to there own method eh
Click to expand...
Yeh me too but when it's all about crisp and sharp angles the current float bead near enough looks like a bullnose to some people :)
 
Yes it does but I guarantee if half of these people on the this forum was ask to float and skim a house in toughcoat or sand cement there heads would fall off
 
If the problem has been cured by repointing then surely over the next few weeks as it dries out some efflorescence will start to appear...
Then neither method will work.

It needs a membrane putting up.
 
CeeVee said:
If the problem has been cured by repointing then surely over the next few weeks as it dries out some efflorescence will start to appear...
Then neither method will work.

It needs a membrane putting up.
Click to expand...
if that's the case why not render with a salt inhibitor in?
 
CeeVee said:
If the problem has been cured by repointing then surely over the next few weeks as it dries out some efflorescence will start to appear...
Then neither method will work.

It needs a membrane putting up.
Click to expand...
as I stated earlier dri coat has additives in it
 
I can remember doing a small area of damp proofing a few years ago, after tanking it out I just bonded and skimmed them when I went back to paint the next week there was some efflorescence on the skim, just sanded it off and painted, it never came back again
 
Thanks for all the replies, I'm going to get it floated as suggested. Reasons

- It just seems a cheap bodge the other way
- If it goes again in the future I'd think plasterboard would breakdown quicker
- I'd like the whole wall made out of the same construction
- Building faces the coast and in the winter get strong wind and rain so it makes sense I think to insulate it properly

The plaster was cut back in these sections a year ago (yes I've been lazy here) and I was told to leave it a month to dry out.

Questions remaining
- Should I remove the skirting for the plasterer or could it be done left in place? It's a long 4m section so it seems a shame to disturb the other 3m.
- The wall is definitely dry now but the question remains whether I should get it tanked? Unsure if it's worth tanking just this small section if the rest of the wall was not initially tanked.

@zombie: It's an external cavity wall
@Vincey Didn't realise there were so many replies, thought I'd be emailed. Glad I wasn't considering the amount though.

As for beading up twice - out of my depth.
 
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