eml on timber frame??

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goody

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am pricing a job at the mo where the guy has already bought a big pile of stainless eml on the advice of his "architect" and wants a modern cream finish on top.

ive been advised to use jub jlm 20 basecoat with fibreglass mesh bedded in it then prime and acrylic top.

Any other suggestions? I don't really want to walk away as there must be a reliable solution based on an eml base available today.

It's a timber frame with vertical battens, then a building membrane and the eml fixed to the battens.

What about a cpi general purpose sprayed on then over to a thin coat system with adhesive etc on that??
 
I'm not clued up on modern renders but i do know timber these days is as green as f**k so the more reinforcement in the backing coats the better i say mate .
 
goody said:
am pricing a job at the mo where the guy has already bought a big pile of stainless eml on the advice of his "architect" and wants a modern cream finish on top.

ive been advised to use jub jlm 20 basecoat with fibreglass mesh bedded in it then prime and acrylic top.

Any other suggestions? I don't really want to walk away as there must be a reliable solution based on an eml base available today.

It's a timber frame with vertical battens, then a building membrane and the eml fixed to the battens.

What about a cpi general purpose sprayed on then over to a thin coat system with adhesive etc on that??

Is it sheathed goody la or just uprights with building paper/felt?

Could you not talk them into sheathing and then just go with a thin coat direct to cem board
 
Thanks guys unfortunately he's ordered the eml especially so we just have to use it. Church have you ever done a scratch coat over eml over a larger area than say a bay window? Was thinking that CPI with eml in it would form a sort of crude cement board as that's effectively all a cement board is yeah? Even they are full of hairline cracks from carrying etc. From there I was thinking just thin coat spec as for cement boards. The thin coat bit Is tried and tested, it's the scratch coat over eml that's the issue.........will it give a sound stiff base like a cement board or will it just push through and flex when following after with subsequent coats? Help ???
 
only ever used a k rend backing coat over ss eml the suction on the top coat it was ok , not the same as sand and cement.
 
Did it seem hardy enough or could you push it in and break it without too much effort?
 
Just did some digging, it's s/steel riblath. Didn't realise the ribs are fixed horizontal not vertical thus giving rigidity across vertical timber battens. Can see how that would work. Guess it's just down to the quality of the basecoat. In the literature it says it's suitable for 3 coat render system.........do you think you could spray one coat of CPI or any other bagged grey basecoat render and get it flat enough for an acrylic 2.5mm finish? Would use 10mm PVC beads
 
riblath is much better than than eml. he should of bought you rendalath similar thing but in a sheet about 8x4 with a render backing paper alsoon the back of it. I use these over bay windows that are made up from timber carcass or they go onto timberframe for basecoat/topcoat. normally using krend it ends up thicker than normal tho overall
 
i'd just crack on if its already specified the worse thing that can happen is you ask for 30 quid an hour daywork to put it right
 
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