DIY internal rending

Status
Not open for further replies.

joe shmoe

New Member
Hi folks.

I need to fix new tiles in my bathroom, but they exceeded the weight limit of bonding/skim, so I have stripped back the plaster to expose the blockwork and will need to render it instead. I've done some DIY plastering, but have no knowledge of rendering, so would anyone be able to help me out with some info, please?

The bathroom walls were originally rendered half-way up, and its so hard to remove that I would like to leave the existing rendering in place and just add new render the remaining top half. Here's a pic:

http://j.imagehost.org/0961/P1010671.jpg

1) I've sanded off all the original Bonding Coat as best as poss. Should I give the blockwork a good coat of PVA (or something else) before rendering ... or do I just wet the walls down alittle to stop suction ?

2) I need to make up approx 18mm depth to match the original render depth on the bottom half of the wall, but considerably more in parts where the blockwork have suffered damage from removing the plaster. Should I do the render in two coats? How long do I wait between coats?

3) What mix for each coat and do I add plastersiser? I see so many conflicting ratio's on the web....some add lime, some add waterproofer etc etc...???

4) When I tile over the whole area, will there be any chance of movement where the new rendering meets the old? Is it likely to cause problems/cracking along the grout lines in my tiling?


Many thanks in advance, guys.
 
Without being rude mate, and I mean this realistically. Get a plasterer to do the rendering. From the sounds of it, if you dont even know the ratio your not gonna get the walls plumb and square, even though your tiling over em.
Get someone in and then you can tile. The last thing you want is for a tile to come off and slice someone in the bath!
 
Bruce is right for a perfect tiling finish it is better to have perfect walls.It probably will crack a bit where it meets the old due to shrinkage but leave the tiling untill it has dried out fully and it will be O.K.
lucius.
 
Hi Guys, thanks for reading and replying.

I'm certain I can get the walls plumb and square, I just have no knowlege of rendering and it's preperation.

Your right, I agree the last thing I want is for a tile/render to come away, but that was why I was asking for expert advice?


Regards
Joe.
 
If you have no knowledge of rendering and prep then you wont be able to get the walls plumb and square mate. Im not being funny just offering good advice. Seeing it done and reading about it are miles apart to doing it. But if you do have a go yourself then good luck, you'll need it.
 
hey joe, read my guide to floating walls in the new to plastering section, use a scratch coat first to build out to the thickness and then screed the top half of the wall and use the bottom half to line your dots in, let your scratch coat set, dry and shrink before top coat, this may take a few days then just wet it down form screeds let them set (one day) and flank in between screeds, then before tiling again let it set, dry out and shrink before tiling. if you need more info just pm me ;)

kirk
 
theres nothing worse than paying top dollar when you move house and then av rip everything out and re fit it all cos the sunday gangs have been at the old diy again ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top