He means place your level across the aperture and mark each side where it meets the uprights
Why not do it freehand easy enough to get that shape and skim with a external corner trowel or render it first then use a plastic arch bead but not if a wood burner is going inHow to you render the curve? I tried beading it, was a nightmare, I'm thinking of fixing hardboard underneath?
Freehand it , then get your queenie out.
For the backing coat I would either freehand it or use a 2" plastic strip that window-fitters use. Then use a mesh skim bead for the finish coat, probs about the only time I would use one of them beads cos generally they're shoit :RpS_thumbup:
why bead the reveals first? i cut the reveals to length then the head then hold the head and reveal up together and see whats what then nail onBit like beading a window, sides first always
why bead the reveals first?
soz mate i was on about on a window not the fireplaceBecause it's hard to guess plumb on both sides, but equally as hard to guess is the extra length added by the arch on the top bead.
So on balance after weighing it all up, it's all guesswork unless you trial fit like you say, but who can be arsed to do that...not me.
I say put the top bead on too long, plumb the sides up, and snip the extra length off the top bead where the sides meet it....carefully.