Am i in the wrong here?

Members online

Total: 195 (members: 6, guests: 189)

Share this page

Status
Not open for further replies.
oasis

oasis

New Member
we plasterboared a bathroom and skimmed it out, then have been told we should't have skimmed the shower area as skim will not hold the new stone tiles? also they have a bathroom that just needs and over skim but are now saying they would rather i dint skim it so they can lay stone tiles on the walls?

so my question is is it OK to skim plasterboard then lay stone tiles or heavy tiles on afterwords ()will also be using a waterproofing kit on the area first
 
No need to skim it really. They used to leave tiled areas in scratch coat in the days of render and skim.
Skim doesn't really provide a key for the adhesive.
 
but the smooth plasterboard will not give a key either? but either way im sure the tiles will be find but i need to back this up with some info!
 
I tiled 600x300 porcelain onto skimmed plasterboard, and they are reasonably heavy. Is your plasterboard to level out an old wall or is it a stud wall ?

I'm sure the rule something like no more than 20kg per square metre, which travertine \ limestone etc would probably exceed
 
one is stud 12.5 mill one is 9mil onto stud (due to room) the on is 12 mill dabed out
 
I've used green moisture board, coated with blue Mapeigum and fixed 600x300 Travertine to it in my bathroom at home, and it ain't going anywhere.
 
hum im sure its ok but maybe next time use aqua board and tape the joints with the stuff u can get screw it on more than it needs!
 
thanks for this! hum maybe i am wrong i should have not skimmed the boards. but then again she dint ask me 2 quote fro stone tiles till a few weeks after we skimed a room.. shes asked me to skim the room!
 
If you had some sort of device that could pull skim off a plasterboard the paper would come off first anyway.

So their argument is null and void.

Personaly I wouldnt have skimmed it but thats out of pure lazyness :)
 
nelly said:
If you had some sort of device that could pull skim off a plasterboard the paper would come off first anyway.

So their argument is null and void.


good point
Personaly I wouldnt have skimmed it but thats out of pure lazyness :)
Click to expand...
 
Why did they plasterboard the shower area? If you're not careful when tileing the water will penetrate the board and blow the tiles off.
 
lewisricekrispy said:
Why did they plasterboard the shower area? If you're not careful when tileing the water will penetrate the board and blow the tiles off.
Click to expand...

i will be adding a tanking kit
 
I always advise skimming the board coz in my opinion it gives it added waterproofing protection and like nelly says it aint goin nowhere and refering to that diagram on the link it doesnt say gypsum plaster on a plasterboard but just gypsum plaster which i wolud take to mean a backing coat.
 
well my thought was "if we dint plaster the walls then the board joints would be left open and this may cause a crack which may then crack a grout line witch then may let water in?"
 
Load of b*ll***s Oasis, Ive tiled over loads of newly skimmed (by myself) walls with both stone and ceramic tiles, just scare mongering sorts!
 
oasis said:
well my thought was "if we dint plaster the walls then the board joints would be left open and this may cause a crack which may then crack a grout line witch then may let water in?"
Click to expand...

That wouldnt happen Oasis, a coat of skim and scrim aint going to stop cracking thats bad enough to cause a tiled wall to crack!

and regards to the "it needs a key" post, that aint true either, you can tile straight onto paint work with no problems and like you said the paper board has no key! tile adhesive (good stuff) sticks like s**t to everything (kinda like board adhesive)
 
..... unless the tiles are silly heavy youve nowt to worry about mate, theres gonna be the info somewhere that'll tell you exactly how much weight per square metre a particular substrate will hold, ill have a look, unless someone beats me to it... i'll bet lucious has it to hand, you can show it to the punter to give em peace of mind..
 
from the white book...

http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/WB09_Plaster_skimming_03.pdf - near the bottom...


Tiling
Tiles up to a weight of 20kg/m2 can be applied directly to the
Thistle finish coats, except where the system includes a bonding
agent. As the total weight of tiles and plaster applied over a
bonding agent is limited to 20kg/m2, consideration should be given
to tiling directly to the background. If plastering to provide a
background for tiles, avoid polishing the surface. Polished plaster
surfaces should be roughened and a suitable primer used.
Tiles should not be applied directly to Thistle undercoats, with the
exception of Thistle Dri-Coat.
 
Chris W said:
from the white book...

http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/WB09_Plaster_skimming_03.pdf - near the bottom...


Tiling
Tiles up to a weight of 20kg/m2 can be applied directly to the
Thistle finish coats, except where the system includes a bonding
agent. As the total weight of tiles and plaster applied over a
bonding agent is limited to 20kg/m2, consideration should be given
to tiling directly to the background. If
Click to expand...

20 kg per meter is some f*ckin heavy tiles! Thats nearly a bag of plaster, I dont think I've ever seen tiles that heavy

Not that I go around musing the weight of tiles mind :)
 
from BAL technical guidance...

Are there weight restrictions when tiling onto plaster?

Yes.

The maximum weight of tiling per m2 on Gypsum Plaster is 20kg/m2 or 32kg/m2 on Gypsum Plasterboard direct (i.e. without plaster skim) [See page 6 of the BAL Sitework Guidance literature]. As a general rule, remember to allow approx. 2-4kg/m2 for weight of adhesive and grouts in addition to the weight of tiles.

leaves you 16-18kg to play with...

density of natural (not crushed) stone is (about) 2515kg per m3 (googled it)
so, 2515/18kg=140 (near enough)...
keeping the correct denonimation i.e. kg, mm etc...
1000mm (height of a cubic metre) / 140
isssssss
7.14mm
thats the thickness of a square metre of natural stone equal to 18kg, or the maximum thickness you can technically use...
given that most natural stone tiles are around 10mm (dont forget theyre sliced off a bigger piece)
you're over weight...

by...

2515/100 (weight of a cube of stone divided into 10mm slices)
25.15kg...
add your minimum 2kg of adhesive...
27kg....

needs to be bare board which will take 32kg...

o f'ck.... ::)
 
Chris W said:
come to that, 10mm of porcelain is over weight, never mind natural stone.... theres not a lot in it...

look at this table...

http://www.simetric.co.uk/si_materials.htm

divide the given figure by 100 and thats the weight in kg of a square metre of the stuff @ 10mm...
Click to expand...


Probably need a nuclear physacist to work it out properly but.........

Tiles are actually sat on top of each other like bricks rather than hanging off the wall.

You'd probably need to tile a ceiling to get the true measure of it :)
 
Come on Chriss you didnt give me a chance, you should never skim boards to be tiled complete waste of time and is dodgy with large format tiles, plasterboard is fine but best to use MR but cement board is the best but i leave it to the customer, the weight guidelines are as followed i stick to these as would hate to bodge a job and a large tile came of a shower wall and landed on some poor kids head.
Plaster board & skim 20kg m2
Skim & render 28kg m2
Plasterboard 32kg m2
Sand & cement 40kg m2
cement board 55kg m2
Hardibacker 45kg m2

Adhesive is roughly 4kg m2 and grout 2kg m2
 
over last five years i've layed 12mm thick marble and travertine tiles directly onto Skimmed plasterboard which has been dot and dabbed on the walls. THEY ARE STILL THERE - SOLID AS A ROCK!

With regards water penetration you should put a full bed of waterproof adhesive on the wall, then you've got wterproof grout then impregnator/sealer etc - ID SAY ABOUT AS WATERPROOF AS YOU CAN GET!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top