Accelerators for K-REND FT

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albarend

albarend

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Has anyone used an accelerator for k-rend or any other scratch back finish??? What kind of timescale are we talking presuming the weather was damp and cold!
 
I use them on the slow setters in Sprin and Autumn. Saves about 2-3 hours.

Dont bother in summer or winter.
 
Still plenty of time to work wuth material??? I just hand apply it as we're just a small company! The job is a fair distance from my house be ideal to scratch before we left site but weather isn't too clever
 
plasterjfe said:
Set off earlier in the morning get there for 6.30 - 7 and chuck it on, rub it same day. What's so hard about that pal
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it was more the work ability time etc with it wasn't sure how quick accelerator worked! We usually do scratch it back same day av seen us scratching at 9pm due to damp conditions
 
albarend said:
it was more the work ability time etc with it wasn't sure how quick accelerator worked! We usually do scratch it back same day av seen us scratching at 9pm due to damp conditions
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f**k rubbing up at 9. Bang it on in the afternoon and scrape back early next morning
 
Mate of mine in UK swears by weber by hand. Although the fairly new FT stuff from k rend is supposedly a lot better.
Anybody else think that weber has a softer finished surface than k rend? Could nearly rub it away with your elbow weeks later
 
BigK said:
Mate of mine in UK swears by weber by hand. Although the fairly new FT stuff from k rend is supposedly a lot better.
Anybody else think that weber has a softer finished surface than k rend? Could nearly rub it away with your elbow weeks later
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I'll price weber and krend and see is there much in price difference. I was told weber was good for a HAND JOB. Ill probably end up getting a machine in tbh.
 
theclemo said:
I'll price weber and krend and see is there much in price difference. I was told weber was good for a HAND JOB. Ill probably end up getting a machine in tbh.
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We use weber, parex and krend and are installers list for them too,

We see it like this

Weber is nice hand or machine applied it's the dearest rubs lovely has bit of body to it so hold thickness

Parex is ok hand or machine applied gotta get on it right or harder to close without dragging/ closing pin holes it's dear but get the extra 5kg a bag

Krend is ok hand or machine ft silicone hasn't a lot of body so bit slumpy and harder to hold thickness. Good price for gear it cheapest of these
K1 good gear a lot finer rubs nice easy to work but it is more doe than the ft silicone

All in all they will all do the job but you have to adjust to that products characteristics

Simples!!!
 
When I've used k rend if it's let mix for a good while the stuff isn't bad, there must be some sort of plasticiser in it, fairly creamy. Less chance of shrinking cracks also.
 
BigK said:
When I've used k rend if it's let mix for a good while the stuff isn't bad, there must be some sort of plasticiser in it, fairly creamy. Less chance of shrinking cracks also.
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We have found that the shrinkage is due to heat and high suction and slumping.
Pumping it on is the best way two passes job done!
 
Can't imagine anyone doing next day scrapes this time of year, even with Parex! If you buy Weber and get it all on by 11 you'll be scratched up for 4. I think K rend silicone Ft is easiest to hand apply though
 
Kylewesley said:
We have found that the shrinkage is due to heat and high suction and slumping.
Pumping it on is the best way two passes job done!
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We have found that shrinkage is die to using krend :D

Seriously tho it doesn't bind together. Any sand/aggeragate that separates instead of binds will always slump, shrink crack and not convey through a pump either.

First rendering lesson in college was how to identify the correct grade sand
 
plasterjfe said:
We have found that shrinkage is die to using krend :D

Seriously tho it doesn't bind together. Any sand/aggeragate that separates instead of binds will always slump, shrink crack and not convey through a pump either.

First rendering lesson in college was how to identify the correct grade sand
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College??
Not for me identify the material on site from experience we have don bags of krend with no cracks

Only cracks we ever see are movement and we fully mesh every job without fail

I heard college doesn't even teach a brickie to knock up pug now which is fuckking mental learn your material inside out and why they have to be that way then on tools for a few years before even getting half good...
 
Kylewesley said:
College??
Not for me identify the material on site from experience we have don bags of krend with no cracks

Only cracks we ever see are movement and we fully mesh every job without fail

I heard college doesn't even teach a brickie to knock up pug now which is fuckking mental learn your material inside out and why they have to be that way then on tools for a few years before even getting half good...
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In reference to college what I meant was using the correct sand/aggeragate for rendering is your first lesson as in how to use a knife and fork for babies as in if the correct grade is not available then don't use it. As in I don't like the sand krend use, and I would go as far as to say its not the best grading for render as in it does not bind.
I think krend suffer from this problem it's what comes out of the ground in killwaughter that's what I meant not "oh I went to college and the first thing they told me was..." Read the post again, there nowt u can teach me about aggeragate.

So u mention krend never cracking in that last post but in the earlier post you mention krend slumping and cracking ? what is it then ?

Actually you didn't mention cracking but slumping I got it mixed up with another thread regarding the cracking issues krend currently have and that all krends product now needs a base coat spec if chance of shrinkage cracking is to be avoided

I can tell you there is post after post in this forum about krend and its cracking, I hardly ever use it so I don't worry if they improve their gear or not bit see what the others say who have nothing but trouble.

By the way once upon a time college was a 5 year day release apprenticeship and the fellers who tutored back then knew about aggeragate trust me and you didn't knock up with a whisk, people didn't have whisks then. The newcomers to the rendering game that are turning out dross jobs grabbing 5 week nvqs
 
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In reference to my previous post what is ment by slumping and cracking/ splitting is when the material is sprayed on not a finished facade if you don't understand the material and rectify the slumping before it's finished then this will inevitably show a crack as the material is not bonded together due to to thick or too wet.
College in my eyes is a waste of time but that is one opinion which we are all entitled to! Soft wash for render is soft wash same as pre bagged is pre bagged. Only trades man error will produce a failed product. You can learn all their is to know about sand we was taught to order soft wash mix right and do a spot on job overcoming a number of problems on each different substrate
Enough said!!!
 
My point was:
Not mixed not enough = more water in gear = more shrinkage.
How long does the machines mix it for out of curiosity?
Can't be long, just bind with water & spray?
 
The m300 has the wet mix principle so is mixing in a pot before being wound through the rotor stator but I would say not long at all
The ritmo is mixes pretty much as soon as it hits the rotor stator

Both do the same job and yes basically does mixes straight away!
I personally think krend just needs a little more attention.
We are installers for krend and the others I will ask our rep what he reckons
 
Kylewesley said:
In reference to my previous post what is ment by slumping and cracking/ splitting is when the material is sprayed on not a finished facade if you don't understand the material and rectify the slumping before it's finished then this will inevitably show a crack as the material is not bonded together due to to thick or too wet.
College in my eyes is a waste of time but that is one opinion which we are all entitled to! Soft wash for render is soft wash same as pre bagged is pre bagged. Only trades man error will produce a failed product. You can learn all their is to know about sand we was taught to order soft wash mix right and do a spot on job overcoming a number of problems on each different substrate
Enough said!!!
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I hear what your sayin but what I'm sayin/asking is what if krends sand is not graded at all for rendering ! Therefore won't bind or hold together as in falls apart when damp in the hand.....let's imagine that why it slumps and shrinks and cracks because its separating all the time.

I completely agree you learn the job and you overcome slumping and shrinking and you learn how to avoid or finish the gaping cracks in the surface right (just quoting the problems lads have mentioned on here about krend) but "why" is the question I'm asking. Why when Parex, granicem, weber, presto don't have any of these issues why are users putting up with it and why can't krend fix it ?

I see lads on here complaining all the time about it that's why I am curious
 
plasterjfe said:
I hear what your sayin but what I'm sayin/asking is what if krends sand is not graded at all for rendering ! Therefore won't bind or hold together as in falls apart when damp in the hand.....let's imagine that why it slumps and shrinks and cracks because its separating all the time.

I completely agree you learn the job and you overcome slumping and shrinking and you learn how to avoid or finish the gaping cracks in the surface right (just quoting the problems lads have mentioned on here about krend) but "why" is the question I'm asking. Why when Parex, granicem, weber, presto don't have any of these issues why are users putting up with it and why can't krend fix it ?

I see lads on here complaining all the time about it that's why I am curious
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I'll ask our rep we are approved installers for most and krend too.
I'm sure they must grade the sand coming out that surely is a no brainer!
Maybe it cause it's silicone based which obviously wants to repel water?
K1 is ok and kmix is good too?
Don't get me wrong it's not as nice to use as a weber/ parex/ but all good
I'll ask the question in the morning.
 
BigK said:
My point was:
Not mixed not enough = more water in gear = more shrinkage.
How long does the machines mix it for out of curiosity?
Can't be long, just bind with water & spray?
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Krend do suggest the use of certain machines with double mixing so imagine a diesel that mixes it up in a batch chamber first for say 5 mins or so, then transfers it to another chamber where it passes through the rotor pump.
After mixers are available to that give it an extra whirl but I don't think that is the problem really

That said on the occasions where we need to use it we have had no issues spraying straight through a gravity fed pump direct to the rotor and onto the wall. That's egrade though most report problems with k1 and I have not used that yet, we were due to but we changed to egrade due to krend saying it did have issues and that it needed "tweeking" so we held off for time being.
 
Kylewesley said:
I'll ask our rep we are approved installers for most and krend too.
I'm sure they must grade the sand coming out that surely is a no brainer!
Maybe it cause it's silicone based which obviously wants to repel water?
K1 is ok and kmix is good too?
Don't get me wrong it's not as nice to use as a weber/ parex/ but all good
I'll ask the question in the morning.
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Who is your rep for krend

When you speak to them can you clear up 1 thing for me. Build base told us kmix was equal to Weber OCR as on one coat render. The ladnon the gone at krend said it wasn't one coat asbin spray at 15mm he said treatbit like sand and cement as in scratch coat let cure then top.

I want to know can krend warrant it sprayed in one coat and finished with tc15
 
If you put krend in a mixer for 5 mins it would be s**t for hand applying.
If you thought it was the right consistency at that stage, but then left it mixing for at least another 5 mins it would be like p1ss running out of the mixer.
I think lots of people that hand apply don't mix it for long enough.
 
BigK said:
If you put krend in a mixer for 5 mins it would be s**t for hand applying.
If you thought it was the right consistency at that stage, but then left it mixing for at least another 5 mins it would be like p1ss running out of the mixer.
I think lots of people that hand apply don't mix it for long enough.
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Not sure how the batch mixer mixes it as I never used that type of machine. @owls will tell I he had one.

Krend ft certainly does work better if it is mixed twice as stated on the bag but egrade and k1 will be different to ft and ft won't be going any where near a pump asbit won't mix or convey
 
plasterjfe said:
Who is your rep for krend

When you speak to them can you clear up 1 thing for me. Build base told us kmix was equal to Weber OCR as on one coat render. The ladnon the gone at krend said it wasn't one coat asbin spray at 15mm he said treatbit like sand and cement as in scratch coat let cure then top.

I want to know can krend warrant it sprayed in one coat and finished with tc15
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We have just got a spec to hpx fully mesh scratch and top in a traditional way but 10-12 mm one coat should be good but will keep you posted mate when I speak to him
 
Kylewesley said:
We have just got a spec to hpx fully mesh scratch and top in a traditional way but 10-12 mm one coat should be good but will keep you posted mate when I speak to him
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That's what I though m. All the specs have a scratch coat now. Interested if it can be used as a true 1coat.
 
plasterjfe said:
Who is your rep for krend

When you speak to them can you clear up 1 thing for me. Build base told us kmix was equal to Weber OCR as on one coat render. The ladnon the gone at krend said it wasn't one coat asbin spray at 15mm he said treatbit like sand and cement as in scratch coat let cure then top.

I want to know can krend warrant it sprayed in one coat and finished with tc15
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A remember when a thought a knew a lot about KREND etc nothing compared to you boys ☺
 
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