You can't plaster over OCR the same day can you?

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NO, if i had a whole house to render i would float the lot first and then start on the ceilings and work my way out, just like we did in the good old days . what OCR you using, i would use CPI General render , sprays a joy and cheaper than OCR
 
simplybesty said:
NO, if i had a whole house to render i would float the lot first and then start on the ceilings and work my way out, just like we did in the good old days . what OCR you using, i would use CPI General render , sprays a joy and cheaper than OCR
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Just the normal weber Ocr 3 is it?.....Yeah it's a bathroom that's been hacked off a meter high, i had some in the garage so was going to use it....Where can i get that Cpi stuff from?...I'm bristol..

Can you do that with OCR float the whole house and the drop back and set it?....Didn't realise you could do that with OCR...Cause that's exactly how i would do it to...

I priced an extension to do like that, but never got it...Obvioulsy it would of been done by hand, not machine..

I only used it few months ago for the frist time, and i love it...Lovely stuff to work with..
 
Why does it seem to mix better than normal s&c? if it is just pre bagged cement/lime/sand/waterproofer?

It's handy for doing garden walls and stuff, cause you can just mix up in groilla bucket.....I seen someone floating the side of a house in it on his own mixing on the scaffold with a groilla bucket...

Nutter....Looked lovely to..
 
s.p.t plastering said:
Why does it seem to mix better than normal s&c? if it is just pre bagged cement/lime/sand/waterproofer?

It's handy for doing garden walls and stuff, cause you can just mix up in groilla bucket.....I seen someone floating the side of a house in it on his own mixing on the scaffold with a groilla bucket...

Nutter....Looked lovely to..
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it aint 'exactly' the same as sand and cement in a bag. It is mostly sand and cement based but refined and blended with polymers and other chems to make it more user friendly, nice to use etc - thats why its the sand cement replacement.
They come in different strength and polymer content for different uses. if you think its handy for garden walls then wait till you do a house in half the time, then its handy.
 
simplybesty said:
NO, if i had a whole house to render i would float the lot first and then start on the ceilings and work my way out, just like we did in the good old days . what OCR you using, i would use CPI General render , sprays a joy and cheaper than OCR
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Simps when you do a backing like this do you spray a full room? or do you work to hard angles
 
plasterjfe said:
simplybesty said:
NO, if i had a whole house to render i would float the lot first and then start on the ceilings and work my way out, just like we did in the good old days . what OCR you using, i would use CPI General render , sprays a joy and cheaper than OCR
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Simps when you do a backing like this do you spray a full room? or do you work to hard angles
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spray the whole room mate, just as you would if applying by hand .if your going onto high suction blocks then all you do is spray a light pass over all the walls in a room and then second coat straight away. I only used CPI general render for this. we left the last job we did (180m2) extension a good week before skimming and its was a joy to skim. it took us from 8.30 until about 2 to float the whole lot.
 
most mortars take a mm a day to cure , if not left it will still shrink underneath top coat leading to cracking, i think thats the problem you see with s&c cracking, nothing wrong with the material if used properly just fast track building methods and poor workmenship!
 
i would use render over hardwall anyday of the week. why use a product which you have to turn round and skim the same day which means you would have to do all the ceilings first making more work for you keeping the ceiling line clean, if you use render you can do the whole house first, then turn round and skim ceilings and walls at the same time with no stress.
 
bathroom only, hack off metre high... really needs dricoat or does ocr have salt neutraliser in it?
 
I'm talking about new builds and bigger jobs but if it was a small area then you can add any additives you want like salt inhibitor
 
spunky said:
cant you use hardwall ?
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Yeah, i would do usually spunks...;But had some left over in tha garage....No where stocks it so can't get it all the time....And not worth going down avonmouth for a couple of bags...


But when i get Sand and cement work, i do like to use this....
 
simplybesty said:
i would use render over hardwall anyday of the week. why use a product which you have to turn round and skim the same day which means you would have to do all the ceilings first making more work for you keeping the ceiling line clean, if you use render you can do the whole house first, then turn round and skim ceilings and walls at the same time with no stress.
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here here
I hate chewy backing plasters
 
If you are floating and setting internal (sand/cement) surely you would have to PVA after a few days before skimming otherwise the skim will crack?
 
s.p.t plastering said:
spunky said:
why are using prebagged sand cement ???
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Cause i find it's easier if on my own....Insted of getting mixer out....Plus it's nice to use..
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How on earth can mixing up ocr in a tub be easier than using a decent size mixer.

FreeD said:
If you are floating and setting internal (sand/cement) surely you would have to PVA after a few days before skimming otherwise the skim will crack?
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I always leave S&C for at least five days normally seven before skimming and have never had to PVA it and that's without using more that a couple of little capfuls of waterproofer per twenty shovelfuls sized gauges.
 
Dunno what jobs you do then Andy but most s/c jobs I skim when it is fully cured I have to wet the walls down before skimming else its gone off as soon as it touchs the wall
 
if you get on s&c to early you do get suction but we never had a problem if it is left like Andy said, the first coat may draw in but hold the second back. All i can suggest richard is you speed up a bit ;D ;D ;D ;D
 
essexandy said:
s.p.t plastering said:
spunky said:
why are using prebagged sand cement ???
Click to expand...

Cause i find it's easier if on my own....Insted of getting mixer out....Plus it's nice to use..
Click to expand...

How on earth can mixing up ocr in a tub be easier than using a decent size mixer.

FreeD said:
If you are floating and setting internal (sand/cement) surely you would have to PVA after a few days before skimming otherwise the skim will crack?
Click to expand...


I always leave S&C for at least five days normally seven before skimming and have never had to PVA it and that's without using more that a couple of little capfuls of waterproofer per twenty shovelfuls sized gauges.
Click to expand...

Because it was only about 2 meters....What't the point in getting mixer out for that? and setting it up outside?...When i can mix it up in tub in like 5 minutes..
 
richardbrown said:
I am far to fat for that ... mind you I did loose 4 pounds at slimming world this week :)
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Did they have to get a plumber in to unblock the bog after ;)

The suction you get off the S&C when you skim depends largely on the suction of the background you have floated over. The mistake a lot of people make is trying to kill the suction of the wall before they float because they aren't confident of floating quick enough on high suction backgrounds, the less suction off the background the more suction you will get from the S&C when skimming. My preferred backgrounds are celcon/thermalite or toplite blocks and I never hose or seal before using S&C.
 
Never used OCR yet guys, planning on doing a small job with it soon,external work after Xmas ,which is the best stuff to buy,two passes to make up 15mm ? I have done lots of externals but the normal sand and dust route
 
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