Would anyone quote..

Members online

Status
Not open for further replies.

SpankySouthport

Private Member
Would anyone quote for float and set over dabbing? This is on an old Victorian property, the walls are fcked and will take an age floating them out personally I wouldn't like to do it on a price:RpS_angry:
 
Pricing for float and set over old Victorian walls that's are a complete mess, I would much prefer to D & D them as I know he won't pay for float and set
 
Qoute both explain why the diff for each method

Thats kind of what I'm saying I would only it would be a waste of my time and effort because I know he he will go with the cheapest option.

i need to work out a meterate structure for all my work it would make my life so much easier
 
It is tiresome sparky but needs must and all that. Get a lil extra on the dot dab method to make up for the annoyance budd?
 
5" difference from one end of the wall to another etc etc...

If there's 5" difference over the whole wall, does he want it straightening ? if so he needs to pay for it, if he doesn't want to pay the extra then whats wrong with following whats there ? As long as your corners are sharp and the finish is good, the fact that its on the piss would just be in keeping with the property, and wouldn't look out of character.
 
If it's that far out why would D&D work out cheaper? It's not like you're going to pack the boards right out on thick dabs are you, as you'll obviously know that's not good practice.
 
If it's that far out why would D&D work out cheaper? It's not like you're going to pack the boards right out on thick dabs are you, as you'll obviously know that's not good practice.

Thats not the only reason I want to dab it, some of the bricks have been put in top end out for some reason so it's seriously undulating..

for work like this where they don't want to pay for anything the easiest/cheapest option is king surely..

or do you men give clients everything they want :RpS_wink:
 
anyone should know that you can not packout 5 inches in plaster. how can a wall be 5 inches out of alinement?
 
If the wall is 5in out get the joiner who hacked it off to strap the walls and then just board it !
 
What about dabbing on strips of boards that have been dabbed?

BG still wouldn't be happy as the whole weight would still be on the initial dab, and it was the total weight of board plus adhesive that they said made dabbing right out to 30mm unacceptable.

Thats not the only reason I want to dab it, some of the bricks have been put in top end out for some reason so it's seriously undulating..

for work like this where they don't want to pay for anything the easiest/cheapest option is king surely..

or do you men give clients everything they want :RpS_wink:

But if the wall has been built frog out then the frogs would need filling before it's dabbed to make sure there's enough surface area for the adhesive to make contact with.
 
Lets be honest, British Gypsum wouldn't sign off **** all, regardless of how perfectly you followed their recommendations anyway.. they are big business and will always find fault somewhere along the lines just to cover their own backs. As said above.. Uni Finish was a prime example.
 
If you really wanted to dab it just build it out with the pads first and sit your top board on the floor * - it IS a wooden floor isn't it?

I'm willing to bet though that the 'typical landlord' isn't even willing to pay for that either................



EDIT: * after 24 hrs or more :RpS_thumbup:
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top