Wood wool, Lime OneCoat and Bauer’s advice/help needed

Xeres

New Member
#1
Hi

I’m talking with reference to this job I posted.

https://www.plasterersforum.com/thr...cts-experience-or-similar.73453/#post-1187163

I’d decided on bauwer but lead times for work and long drying times made me look for an alternative option.

i then decided to overboard the walls with savolit wood wool boards stainless stee hammer fixed directly with @pftmonojetman lined up for lime coats in the new year.

My issue is that the wood wool boards are quite soft so getting fixings to work is only effective on the flat, bricked walls. The rubble walls are simply impossible to hammer fix, meaning I need battens and then the whole system is too thick.

So far, ive only done one wall. I’m debating whether to:

A) cut my losses and pull off all the work I’ve done thus far. Suck it up to inexperience of said product and proceed with a bauwer light system application.

B) wood wool board only the bricked/flat walls and combine the bauwer system. This would involve bauwer light on the stone walls, meshed and finished. The wood wool boarded walls would simply be meshed and finished without the light application. My obvious concern with this is two different substrates and differential thermal movement at the corners.

I’m feeling option A at the moment - just sat looking at the job and think option b is asking for trouble but would welcome thoughts.

@pftmonojetman
@vfr12
@Bauwer

Thanks in advance
 

Vincey

Private Member
#2
Hi

I’m talking with reference to this job I posted.

https://www.plasterersforum.com/thr...cts-experience-or-similar.73453/#post-1187163

I’d decided on bauwer but lead times for work and long drying times made me look for an alternative option.

i then decided to overboard the walls with savolit wood wool boards stainless stee hammer fixed directly with @pftmonojetman lined up for lime coats in the new year.

My issue is that the wood wool boards are quite soft so getting fixings to work is only effective on the flat, bricked walls. The rubble walls are simply impossible to hammer fix, meaning I need battens and then the whole system is too thick.

So far, ive only done one wall. I’m debating whether to:

A) cut my losses and pull off all the work I’ve done thus far. Suck it up to inexperience of said product and proceed with a bauwer light system application.

B) wood wool board only the bricked/flat walls and combine the bauwer system. This would involve bauwer light on the stone walls, meshed and finished. The wood wool boarded walls would simply be meshed and finished without the light application. My obvious concern with this is two different substrates and differential thermal movement at the corners.

I’m feeling option A at the moment - just sat looking at the job and think option b is asking for trouble but would welcome thoughts.

@pftmonojetman
@vfr12
@Bauwer

Thanks in advance
Tbf I had client with similar, in the end he went for wood wool but best advice I’d say is do what your chosen plasterer says is best
 

Xeres

New Member
#5
I think I may have solved this problem - I’ll post up what I did when I’ve confirmed all fine
 

Arti

Well-Known Member
#6
I think I may have solved this problem - I’ll post up what I did when I’ve confirmed all fine
Post some pics of progress if you don't mind
 

Xeres

New Member
#8
I’ll wait for @pftmonojetman before comment, as I think you have an agreement with him
Just been reflecting on this thread - you’re right, I should wait for pftmonojetman to come back to me.

A little bit of context - if I was to pull of work I’d done, I wanted to get it done today so I could get the materials back to my supplier for a refund. No chance in next few weeks otherwise which means lost monies and time. Couldn’t get a hold of pftmonojetman (who’s been amAzingly helpful on the phone and always contactable in he past) hence me posting here.

Will pick up with him directly and close this thread. In hindsight, appreciate it isn’t helpful to add additional cooks to the equation!
 
#10
Just been reflecting on this thread - you’re right, I should wait for pftmonojetman to come back to me.

A little bit of context - if I was to pull of work I’d done, I wanted to get it done today so I could get the materials back to my supplier for a refund. No chance in next few weeks otherwise which means lost monies and time. Couldn’t get a hold of pftmonojetman (who’s been amAzingly helpful on the phone and always contactable in he past) hence me posting here.

Will pick up with him directly and close this thread. In hindsight, appreciate it isn’t helpful to add additional cooks to the equation!
We said it before .... you won't go wrong with him! Keep us posted how it goes and pictures pls! We looove pictures :D
 
#11
the walls where you cant get afixing could you not resin the fixings into the wall?
 
#12
the walls where you cant get afixing could you not resin the fixings into the wall?
Not really. That means locating all the fixings through the wood wool board, removing the board and then resin them in. Wait a while. Hammer in, next board. And then you’ve got the issue of the boards lining up accurately if you want to proceed to the next board whilst you wait. You’d be dragging out the work considerably as if it wasn’t laborious enough doing it this way already without battening first.

I did a simple fix - made the washers 8mm by drilling them all individualy out (700+...) so I could put the nylon sleeve through them and the collar of the hammer sleeve could then be retain the washer, rather than solely the hammer nail/screw. This keeps the nylon plug from going too deep. Don’t why I didn’t think of that before...

Still having issues with locating stone ina random rubble wall so massively over-fixing - approx 12-15 per board.

Photos to follow tomorrow.