What would you do ?

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moy83

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We are doing a job on an old building and the builder wants all the cracks outside chased and patched with lime render or is happy not to chase out the cracks if we will get away with a breathable basecoat /mesh and any type of sponged finish .
The walls are old stone walls with normal sand and cement sponged finish (not lime rendered anyhow )
Strangely they are painting the walls on the inside with a waterproofing sealer right up to the wallplate and studding new walls inside them again and not putting any vents in either . So I don't see this breathing thing working out either way regardless of my finish .
I'm leaning towards some kinda thin coat and mesh job , any recommendations on what ye would use here ?
Thanks in advance
 
Just use some hardwall with a handful of board finish in it. Done 1000's like this and have no comebacks or calls (y)
 
Almost all renders are breathable. The few that aren’t are made for damp proofing. As to how breathable? That information is available from the manufacturers and is algebraic so we can’t make any sense of what they are talking about.

You could do a thin coat render but to get that type of material flat enough for painting is a skill on its own. A silicone bucket coat will cover up slight imperfections and will look good. But thin coats can only follow the shape of the existing.

There are other renders what are more like 10mm renders that are sticky like thin coats but finish like ocr’s. Wetherby and Jub make them.

I think Wetherby is called x32 and jub graphite ocr? They do primers similar to Parex’s microgobetis. I have used both but siliconed over the top.
 
Rigsby said:
Almost all renders are breathable. The few that aren’t are made for damp proofing. As to how breathable? That information is available from the manufacturers and is algebraic so we can’t make any sense of what they are talking about.

You could do a thin coat render but to get that type of material flat enough for painting is a skill on its own. A silicone bucket coat will cover up slight imperfections and will look good. But thin coats can only follow the shape of the existing.

There are other renders what are more like 10mm renders that are sticky like thin coats but finish like ocr’s. Wetherby and Jub make them.

I think Wetherby is called x32 and jub graphite ocr? They do primers similar to Parex’s microgobetis. I have used both but siliconed over the top.
Click to expand...
Thanks Rigsby , I wouldn't mind finishing with a silicon top coat over a base coat with mesh if that will do the trick .
I havent a clue how breathable the engineer wants it and I doubt he knows himself either , it's a silly job , they are sealing up the inside of the walls completely on his say so
 
Rigsby said:
Almost all renders are breathable. The few that aren’t are made for damp proofing. As to how breathable? That information is available from the manufacturers and is algebraic so we can’t make any sense of what they are talking about.

You could do a thin coat render but to get that type of material flat enough for painting is a skill on its own. A silicone bucket coat will cover up slight imperfections and will look good. But thin coats can only follow the shape of the existing.

There are other renders what are more like 10mm renders that are sticky like thin coats but finish like ocr’s. Wetherby and Jub make them.

I think Wetherby is called x32 and jub graphite ocr? They do primers similar to Parex’s microgobetis. I have used both but siliconed over the top.
Click to expand...

now that is just f**k**g shakespearean.
you should write a book on rending.
you take plastering and make it astronomical.
you are a genius mate.
your number 1 fan algeeman (y)

id love to spend time with you on the tools.
 
I did write a book. It was for my GCSE English exam in the early 90’s (adult education) and titled ‘How to pebble dash a wall and get away with it’.

I got a B+.
 
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