Weber cracked with mesh

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BigBish

Well-Known Member
Gents

Weber silver pearl at about 10-12mm over roughly 3mm rendaid.

Full mesh

Hairline cracks above window edges.

I used rendaid as it was lightweight blocks, should i be double meshing those stress points ?
 

Topspread16

Well-Known Member
Gents

Weber silver pearl at about 10-12mm over roughly 3mm rendaid.

Full mesh

Hairline cracks above window edges.

I used rendaid as it was lightweight blocks, should i be double meshing those stress points ?
Yeah Jamie, still had them crack on double mesh. I put it down to brickies not giving a f**k about their bond. I’ve asked one bloke I work for to start using concrete lintels on top of IG lintels.
 

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
I would have fully meshed the rend aid and put stress patches in the top coat.

But if you look into Webers very small, small print they insist on that mortar reinforcing mesh fully embedded 500mm before and after the 45 degrees sheer line in one long length. Same below the sill.this is in the block laying mortar.

If Weber came out after you insisted you did it all to the book then out comes the metal detector. If there is no reinforcement detected where they say it should be then they walk.

But unless the architect knows about this he wont spec it on his drawings.

So it’s the architects fault.
 

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
There is quite a few complaining about cracking a lately on the talk groups. Probably heat causing thermal movement. Over bi folds is a problem but I am not surprised.
 

malc

TPF Special Forces
There is quite a few complaining about cracking a lately on the talk groups. Probably heat causing thermal movement. Over bi folds is a problem but I am not surprised.

it is very unusual on sites to see protection put up to protect the render from drying out to quickly. in fact there is very little protection of any work.

when i worked for a large plastering contractor, they would try to sack gangs of plasterers [who they wanted to get rid of] for not protecting their work. the union would try to get them reinstated.
 
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malc

TPF Special Forces
I would have fully meshed the rend aid and put stress patches in the top coat.

But if you look into Webers very small, small print they insist on that mortar reinforcing mesh fully embedded 500mm before and after the 45 degrees sheer line in one long length. Same below the sill.this is in the block laying mortar.

If Weber came out after you insisted you did it all to the book then out comes the metal detector. If there is no reinforcement detected where they say it should be then they walk.

But unless the architect knows about this he wont spec it on his drawings.

So it’s the architects fault.

bricklayers always want to dodge using brick tor . i have never even thought of checking if it was in place.
 

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
Rapid drying can cause lots of problems. We cover up if we do it at all with debris netting.

What some don’t realise is how much heat brick and blocks absorb.

This radiates out causing rapid drying. Covering in netting is too late.
 

malc

TPF Special Forces
we use rolls of hessian , saturated with water in summer , tarps. in winter with heaters underneath.
 

hobbit87

New Member
Gents

Weber silver pearl at about 10-12mm over roughly 3mm rendaid.

Full mesh

Hairline cracks above window edges.

I used rendaid as it was lightweight blocks, should i be double meshing those stress points ?
Hi all, just had same peal grey Hairline cracks...Full mesh over rendaid...first cracks in my time and been same system for years and don't know what to say to customer or how to fix it.. any advice welcome... piss take good also but any help guys???
 

Monkey Boy

Well-Known Member
Hi all, just had same peal grey Hairline cracks...Full mesh over rendaid...first cracks in my time and been same system for years and don't know what to say to customer or how to fix it.. any advice welcome... piss take good also but any help guys???
lord of the rings hobbit GIF
 
Yeah Jamie, still had them crack on double mesh. I put it down to brickies not giving a f**k about their bond. I’ve asked one bloke I work for to start using concrete lintels on top of IG lintels.
U correct, but also a slurry coat over the concrete lintels 1st, it’s pulled into quick and that’s why it’s cracked, unless brickwork not pointed up well etc
 
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