Under pin?

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Danny

Danny

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I am starting to get my garage ready and as you cn see there are some big cracks.

I initially thought it would need under pinning but the base looks good...

Should I just cut out the split blocks and replace then hack off the render and rd do?

Or should I carry on and under pin it?

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It's only a f**k**g garage Danny, stop being a tart and wack some heli bar in there, a bit of mesh and render away.
If it cracks again just put another trellis up just like the previous owner had.
 
Danny said:
@imago

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Temporary fix, use helibars. Long term/permanent fix take it down and pour a footing. Underpinning is a lot of work and it wouldn't be worth it if you're rebuilding it in the future.

If the movement is continuing then the helibar option will result in the same cracking but further along. But if you're going to rebuild it in the not too distant future that won't matter.
 
Danny said:
I have looked at that .... Just not sure if it needs underpinning...

Think I am going to replace the split blocks the strap the corner up and render it and see of it moves after that

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Don't remove the blocks, it'll make it worse if you disturb it. Using straps won't last more than the next change of season as they're only fixed by screws so all the load will be on a couple of blocks.

As suggested by others, use helibars. When they're in and the mortar's set duct tape the face of the cracks and mix up a fairly stiff sand/cement/SBR slurry. Pour it into the crack from the top, if you can't get to the top of the crack make a funnel of tape as near the top of the crack as you can get and pour it in that way.
 
Ok helibar it is then ;-)

Thanks all :)

The render is solid either side of the crack as well.. reckon I might just patch it for now s you lot say nd see how it goes.

The crack has not got any worse in the 5 years I have known the garage... my building regs man has also said to hwlibar it as well...



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as you look at the final photo of the external. about a metre in from your spade, if you follow the crack downwards it then turns to the left as a light crack it looks like the footing has a crack at that point?.
i would replace the top 2 blocks. helibar the mortar corse, and clean the crack and fill with resin. Jewson sells a resin that will fit in a normal mastic gun.
 
malc said:
as you look at the final photo of the external. about a metre in from your spade, if you follow the crack downwards it then turns to the left as a light crack it looks like the footing has a crack at that point?.
i would replace the top 2 blocks. helibar the mortar corse, and clean the crack and fill with resin. Jewson sells a resin that will fit in a normal mastic gun.
Click to expand...

The footings look good to be honest the crack stops about 4 blocks up I think...

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/search?text=Helifix+HeliBar

any ideas on stockists for the helibars where I wont get my pants pulled down
 
Save your money and time Danny. Use air lime and push it back into the crack in two or 3 stages.
 
How thick is the footing Danny? Underpinning would be a waste of time on a wall of that size just like others have said. In the time you would have faffed about with the underpinning you would have knocked the flank down and redone it all.
Helibar would be a make do job and quite strong but you should really find out for sure what exactly has caused the movement ( footing on soft ground, or maybe something has hit it or whatever may be) before diagnosing a fix.


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If you try underpinning a corner without supporting the cracked blockwork, you'll prob just end up digging a hole for the blockwork to fall into. Best helibar it as others have stated, works a treat and doesn't involve vibration near your falling-down-garage.

Is the wall built on the slab, or has the slab been cast into the garage walls? In which case, does it actually have any footings?
I usually get helibar from permagard and resin off ebay. I tend to buy bulk though.
If you don't fancy helibar then knock the corner down and rebuild as it will be quicker than underpinning and less hazardous.

Out of interest, is there any wildlife growing in the bottom of the crack (near floor), if so it might be old movement and you may be OK. If there's fresh powder from blocks cracking, it need to come down.
 
a garage usually just sits on a slab not a footing as they do not need to meet building control.
 
Deri said:
How thick is the footing Danny? Underpinning would be a waste of time on a wall of that size just like others have said. In the time you would have faffed about with the underpinning you would have knocked the flank down and redone it all.
Helibar would be a make do job and quite strong but you should really find out for sure what exactly has caused the movement ( footing on soft ground, or maybe something has hit it or whatever may be) before diagnosing a fix.


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Its on a slab of 6 inches or so... the slab is not cracked at all under close inspection :D
 
t33ch said:
If you try underpinning a corner without supporting the cracked blockwork, you'll prob just end up digging a hole for the blockwork to fall into. Best helibar it as others have stated, works a treat and doesn't involve vibration near your falling-down-garage.

Is the wall built on the slab, or has the slab been cast into the garage walls? In which case, does it actually have any footings?
I usually get helibar from permagard and resin off ebay. I tend to buy bulk though.
If you don't fancy helibar then knock the corner down and rebuild as it will be quicker than underpinning and less hazardous.

Out of interest, is there any wildlife growing in the bottom of the crack (near floor), if so it might be old movement and you may be OK. If there's fresh powder from blocks cracking, it need to come down.
Click to expand...

Originally a bricky said to underpin it... I dug out around the slab and the sb is in great condition... looks like that corner has just been hit by a car or something....

I got some stainless steel threaded bars today after nobody stocked the genuine ones... and some resin stuff and a few blocks and I will start stitching it together... The idea of helibars on there own seemed a bit bodgy and likewise with just blocks...

THe other thing is the blocks are imperial... which will make it all that much more fun :D

going to start this tomorrow while doing a few other jobs at the same time over the next few days so should hopefully build some strength back in :D

going to build a peer in the middle of the wall and also another a the front door to get some strength back :D then its a case of getting some steel in for the garage door :D
 
malc said:
a garage usually just sits on a slab not a footing as they do not need to meet building control.
Click to expand...

yes that is exactly as it is :D it looked like the base may be cracked and thats is why that corner had cracked... but the base is solid.... so it is I think a crack caused by something hitting it :D
 
Danny said:
yes that is exactly as it is :D it looked like the base may be cracked and thats is why that corner had cracked... but the base is solid.... so it is I think a crack caused by something hitting it :D
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i think that it has been hit, the corse of the blockwork of the 2 walls are still in alignment.
 
Ha Ha, funny to think someone might have actually nearly reversed the back of their garage off! Prob reversed in and forgot about the workbench/motorbike/waching machine in the corner.

Easy fix then.
 
t33ch said:
Ha Ha, funny to think someone might have actually nearly reversed the back of their garage off! Prob reversed in and forgot about the workbench/motorbike/waching machine in the corner.

Easy fix then.
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Not another motorbike:endesacuerdo:. There can be only one:D
 
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I ended up cutting out most of the blocks and using stainless steel bars to strengthen. The biggest problem was that the old blocks were imperial and the new ones were metric... so nothing really lined up. Alsi the old blocks were narrower....

So I decided to fit them flush to the outside render with a bit sticking out out in the inside. The strength is back in the wall now.

I built the peers up one in the middle of the same wall and one at the front and that has made a huge difference now as before I could almost wave the wall.

I then removed the the plastic from the roof on the inside as it was full off ahite and have started painting. This is to keep the dust down and make it lighter.

On the outside of the garage the render is solid to the brickwork and when I tried to take it off it pulled half the block with it so I think I am just going to meet the wall up Nd go over it with thin coat render to hide/tidy it all up.

New garage doors are being made as we speak and I am about start looking at all the electrics to go in :)
 
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