The Damp Wall

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oasis

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OK as i said last week i had a damp wall 2 do for a friend, yes free work wot a mug. anyhow i said yes to it months ago so here we go.

i couldn't see why it was so damp but it was very wet and very soft, the old window may have been half the problem but most of the wall was wet or very soft and damp, the out side looked good and no sign of condensation but all that's left is maybe a bad roof? the timber at the top of the wall (wall plate?) was very wet so maybe its coming from above as the other 3 walls were all fine.

all so some clever clogs patched in under the rad with bonding! and also look how thick the old bonding/render is!

just a few photos to see what people think about it. i couldn't be messing around on a free be so iv just put treated timbers on wall with added dcp and will board over Monday!

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SALTS!!!!!

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what else can u do? and plus ill be boarding over the batton so how can the damp come trew the screw to the board? bi fort every 1 does it this way?
 
but your putting holes in it again...dpc is normally used on brickwork and is bedded on with muck
 
best soltion would be to get a scafold coving the whloe house then sheet it up, that way no rain should ever hit the building :)
 
oasis dont worry they are scare mongering ..... every time I have done this I have done the same and every time I have seen anyone else do it it is the same.

Board it with foil backed board.

Ideally though sort out the damp problem
 
yea i know this stevo but i know alot of people that do this? treated timber and dcp of they do the hole wall with the sheet. it may have grn threw but the idea that the boards are away from the wet wall should help alot, better than apply any kind of backing coat direct to a wet wall? but still as people have said before the problem needs dealing with maybe the roof who nos.
 
You need to tackle the source of the damp first...

You can put damp proof slurry like THOROSEAL SUPER, 2 coat brush on application, but it wont solve the problem.

If its coming through roof you'll probably need to replace the flashing or gulley.

DPC only acts as a channel to take the water away from one area to another.
 
no I'm holding on 2 my money for now. 10k is alot to spend atm, i fancy a new van.. hummm


you no when you look at a car have a budget well when looking at cars 4 sum reason i allways add and extra £1500-£2000 ? whys that! its out of my budget lol!
 
Yeh dont worry about the few holes. When you fit the damp mesh you still have to put plugs in it resulting in a hole.
You normally plug them with a silicone stuff though and its better than battons and screws as the whole thing is plastic.
 
Is the wall miles out of level at the bottom or was the render that thickness throughout? Looks like from the pics that it was thin at the top. Could be the walls that far out.
 
u can tell its a freebe as iv cut one batton under the window 2 short somehow and fort ah f*uck it!
 
id take a wild stab in the dark and say that was a box sash window origionally...
ripped out, the new ones gone back in the face brick...
no lintel...
needs one...
something else you might not realise is any water getting in through the face brick above is gonna p'ss through the head if you just board it...
when you stick your 4"x1200mm concrete lintel in.... tuck some 9"dpc over the top so it slopes down and tuck that in above the window so it sticks out the other side...
insert some weep vents in the perps above the window....
failing that have the window out and use (what i call) a 't' lintel... or more to the point a 'T' lintel... the 'T' is upside down and it still wants some dpc tucking in the back edge leading down to the outside edge of the 'T'... make any sense?


quick and easy way of insulating / damping / and VAPOUR BARRIERING that wall...

get rid of all the bloody studwork...
nuther post comin it doin its jumpy about thing again..
 
gripfill some 50mm cellotex to the wall NO GAPS..
tape all the joints up with gaffer tape...
theres your vapour barrier...
using 25x50 treated timber and 120mm starfix fixings, fix battens through the cellotex into the brickwork, 4 fixings per batten or so @ 400 ctrs...
same sort of design round the window etc...
booard that.... no need for foil back, youve already done the vapour barrier plus it gives you the added possibility of installing electrical sockets on dryline boxes (due to the 25mm gap) and you can run your cables in the gap...
plus the 25mm gap gives you a 'low emmisivity' space...
and the fact that theres no battens touching the wall means you dont have to install a thermal break...
gottit?
;D
 
is it one of those lintels that looks like 5 bricks laid stretcher fashion? sags a bit for a lintel doesnt it?
btw.... relocated, shiny new f'ckbook (sorry NETbook)...
 
if thats a concrete lintel above those 5 stretchers you might wanna replace em with a bit of 4x2...
and tuck some dpc above it and down over the window head...
known as a 'diy cavity tray' ;)
 
bit late mate all boarded and skimmed! dint wana mess around end off he needs ta fix the leak.and it was a timber lintel. and the bricks around the edge was layed in when the first window refit was done. maye as a guide to render to but anyways the wall was everywere so when battoned out and boarded needed bonding to help out the revels!

also that method you said of putting celtex to a damp wall then batton then board.. couldt you just plug and screw the damp mesh membrane and it do the same job and that way you can solid plaster finish it?




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yeh you could, but cellotex is a heck of a lot cheaper than olroyd p or platon plus it gives you a u value of around 0.3 - garage conversion spec for a single skin wall...
did you insulate that wall at all?
and you cant really be choppin sockets into a wall done with a damp proofing membrane - defeats the object somewhat...
 
well on the last job i worked on with the membrane they had the first fix done on the blocks then they cut membrane around sockets and used the silicone stuff all around them? also the good thing about the mesh stuff is its only 3mill thick were timber and ceoltex ect starts 2 build out but i can see it doing a good job.. u grip fill it on lol
 
check this out mate... section entitled 'walls'... then read the rest... ;)
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/garage_conversion/index.htm
only reason you gripfill em up is to hold em in place till you batten through em... its the battens that hold em...
gripfill being waterproof...
and ere's a tip ive only just discovered... how many people knew this? honestly?
gripfill is meant to be used as a contact adhesive....
i.e. you run a bead down the back of your architrave (or whatever) press it on and immediately pull it off...
let it dry and try it again.... bet you it doesnt move this time... ;)
 
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