tanking for damp profing

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nsm1982

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is tanking the best way to damp proof a room. We use the sovereign brand of tanking slurry and sbr works great any other ways. what is the going rate 60/sq m
 
tanking isn't a preventative measure its a barrier against ingress, the best method is to treat the source...
failing that, tanking done properly will usually stop it showing back through... although you may need to think about a chemical dpm on the floor as well...
is it below ground or are the levels all over the place?
 
Tanking is considered the way to go now instead of a chemical dpc, been to an house today thats been chemicaly injected twice before and i have ended up tanking it , i am a sovereign recognise installer also , and the heidi k system is very good
 
you going metre high with the tanking warrior or up to a couple of metres? came across a failed 'treatment' a few weeks ago, been rendered 3:1 waterproofer metre high and it was showing water marks up to about 14/1500... dead straight cut off line above the rendered bit, bone dry below...
rendered to floor so i knocked off the first 2" the perps were mush and the bricks like sponges..
job should have been tanked in the first place tbh cos the other side of the wall had a floor level 10" higher..
I think they just rendered it and left it..
 
The recommended min is 1200mm OR 200 mm above the dampest point , but everyone seems to have this misconception that its a 1mtr and job done , wrong, so if your picking readings up above 1200mm then it opens up other questions , is it rising damp or penetrating , or as mentioned even condensation there are so many factors and questions that need to be eliminated before the rising damp scenario is raised , ie bad pointing and spalled brickwork,cracked renders, bushes and trees up against the wall, sealant around windows and doors etc etc etc
too in depth to go into in proper detail, but what i would say is if you plan on doing this type of work do a course with a reputable company and get the backing of the company using their insurance backed schemes and recognition,
 
other side was a kitchen...
old house, step up into kitchen, the 'annex' was built at the same time as the house, all the courses matched, same bricks, same age, toothed in, although it was a 9" solid party wall..
its had a timber floor rip out and concrete (wall was re-rendered before the concrete and was below floor level)?and no sign of any dpm so im wondering if the concrete has forced some damp up the walls?
last leak they had was in the bathroom above the kitchen 3years back, checked the bathroom, all pipework surface fixed and waste straight out the wall?

anyway, customer wanted it skimmed over , didnt want to pay for the dp company..
to be fair it did look dodgy...

so, i skimmed it... :p
 
All you can do is make recommendations , it covers your arse when the customer comes back and say's i got damp since you plastered,, ::)
 
Tanking is a barrier. If we come across a really wet wall we inject and tank. As for the going rate it depends on the products you want to use, some are 2 coat others 3 some want a scratch coat of render first.
This all affects the cost.
 
The injection creates a horizontal barrier to stop the damp being able to rise from the ground.
Chemical or cream they both work the same.
 
carlos said:
The injection creates a horizontal barrier to stop the damp being able to rise from the ground.
Chemical or cream they both work the same.

so you rake out inject and the whole house is resting on the cream?
 
no no Drill 10mm for chemical or 12mm for cream holes straght into the joint at 4"-5" centres normaly one at each end of the brick and one in the middle along the joint. If injecting from the outside re point the holes as best you can to match back.

The chemical is forced along and through the joint by a electric pump under pressure, the cream dissapates through the joint. Both do the same thing.
 
carlos said:
no no Drill 10mm for chemical or 12mm for cream holes straght into the joint at 4"-5" centres normaly one at each end of the brick and one in the middle along the joint. If injecting from the outside re point the holes as best you can to match back.

The chemical is forced along and through the joint by a electric pump under pressure, the cream dissapates through the joint. Both do the same thing.

and how do you know when it has dissipited enough through the joints?
 
With the cream you dont you just inject it point it if needed and leave it.

With the chemical you can see it push through the joint as it changes colour (gets darker due to the saturation of chemical) and it will ozze and drip out of the joint as it reaches saturation.
 
carlos said:
With the cream you dont you just inject it point it if needed and leave it.

With the chemical you can see it push through the joint as it changes colour (gets darker due to the saturation of chemical) and it will ozze and drip out of the joint as it reaches saturation.

so you dont drill into the brick?
 
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